omar302

Checking parts list for the front seats of a 2024 Edge shows the same TEDs as all Edges from 2015/2016+. Items number 29 & 30 in this link: https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2024-ford-edge--st--2-7l-v6-gas/body--front-seat-components

The original part, ending with "B" is for all models since 2015, how come the improved part is for 2018+?

I just went out and tried the same, I think it is improved, should have measured it to be 100% sure. I am 6' tall and now when open tailgate barely touches my head from the sides of the latch area, however, the latch itself still hits my head. Also, I could still raise it by hand another 1.5"-2". I tried to reboot the module using ForScan while the tailgate was fully open, but this made it think it closed, pressing any button to close the tailgate just caused the latch to make a sound like it's trying to unlock without any movement. Had to close it by hand for it to then function normally.

Just an idea, I didn't try it, open the liftgate fully by hand then disconnect the battery so the initializing process starts with a fully opened tailgate.

I don't have experience with these brands. But I'd suggest to try the right side (non electric) first. It is cheaper and easier to replace. As for the issue itself, my 2016 Edge also had it since as long as I remember. During warranty time I raised to the dealer, they claimed that they swapped the liftgate motor with from another Edge and it was the same, hence they deemed it as normal and couldn't fix it.

Wish you good luck. Maybe also study the possibility of enabling the rear camera to view 180 degrees like the front camera?

You can search eBay or Amazon for "key shell case" and include terms to match your key (3 or 4 button, remote start, etc) Examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265003175567 https://www.ebay.com/itm/314681861969

The OEM donut spare is actually smaller in diameter and will cause the AWD system to disconnect to save it from damage

Until your pads/brakes heat up, you can't brake and then don't have anything left to pick.

Never got to complete my project as I switched to a 2016 Edge Sport around the same time. For no. 1 & 3 as far as I know, both are in the PCM. Not possible with ForScan or wiring. I couldn't find anything online on how to change them. Another function that was added in newer models, 2018 or 2019 (not exactly sure) when in sport mode and you pull a paddle (entering manual mode) is the ability to pull/hold a paddle for a short time to exit manual shifting mode and revert to sport mode. For no. 3, also in the PCM and as you found out, it can be done with some tuners, however, not with Livernoise as I have it and couldn't enable it for me.

One of the views with the round tachometer, there is a temperature gauge display. See sample image.

The 2019+ Edge refresh got a different PTU than previous models.

The Edge, the model sold by the car company "Ford Motor Company". At least since 2011 Ford has used this strategy, the main benefit is to reduce fuel consumption by reducing load from the alternator when charging is not required. This can even be seen by monitoring the voltage output of the alternator. I am using ForScan lite (Android). The PID is "BdyCM.BAT_ST_CHRG", see screenshot attached. As for AGM selection, seeing how I probably was wrong before, I wouldn't follow the F150 sheet. However, since an Edge with auto-start stop does have an AGM from the factory, maybe use the ABD from that? Checking VINs of Edges online, a 2016 Edge SE FWD that has Auto-Start stop has "01" in the battery type. So does a 2023 Edge ST that has Auto-Start stop. (As per the the F150 sheet this correspondences to BAGM-48H6-760 70Ah 760CCA, which is the stock Edge battery with Auto-Start stop).

Probably because it is still new (fully charged). It should eventually go to 80% and then stay around that since that's the set charge limit.

@1004ron I had done the same for my Edge since installing a locally made H6 battery. However, in ForScan there is a PID to monitor battery state of charge, and after a few weeks it would not read correctly, be less than 80% most of the time, ~55-65%. I had attributed this to bad battery quality. Recently I installed a new battery, same brand/size H6, and again after a few days same issue with the battery state of charge, less than 80%. I then checked with ForScan module configuration, the "Easy Mode" and found that the battery type was listed as "Incorrect value or not configured". Found out that for some reason, the ABD values "0C" & "0D" show this result. So I tried the battery type just after the default one (Varta 70Ah 600CCA H6 Case), which is "13" in the ABD value, and not included in the battery type list in the F-150 ABD sheet). Couple of days later the battery state of charge got around 80% as it should be.

Yes. Ford refers to the red LED strip as a head up display. See example from the service manual attached. Head Up Display (HUD) Module.pdf

The OEM glass itself is about $300. (Example). Is labor that much?

Thanks as usual for your updates and contributions. Seems now there is another new Oil Pan with with a separate gasket and does not require replacement of the valve covers. That is good and makes for a cheaper fix. Now we need an extended warranty coverage and at least a one time replacement to the new design pan. Mine started to leak, but isn't significant and still doesn't drip on the floor.

As @Cerberus stated, H7 is probably overkill, by a big margin. As for fit, I don't expect it to fit. I remeber the battery tray having 3 holes for mounting thr battery, for H5, H6 & H7.

As @1004ron said, the rear axle does disengage. There is a clutch pack Infront of the RDU unit to disconnect the rear axle from the driveshaft. However, the driveshaft is still driven by the engine/PTU and the rear axle is driven by the wheels. The 2019 refresh added a "disconnect" function in the PTU that disengages the driveshaft, hence the driveshaft would stop rotating once disconnected from both ends.

It is in the manual here. With every oil change. So every 10k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

What about the Lincoln Nautilus? Should easier to find one with the 2.7L.

You have lost the reflective function, hence when the lights are off there the vehicle is less visible. In other words, it can be deemed less safe.

2015-2018 is also combo. Position+Direction light. However, for these years it uses a single filament bulb and changes the voltage to change from position lights to signal. On my 2016 I had the position lights disabled with ForScan (link here) so they function as turn signal lights only. For park we have the bumper mounted "signature" lights.

Maybe you have Lane Centering turned on? The button for it should on the steering wheel.