omar302

Thanks as usual for your updates and contributions. Seems now there is another new Oil Pan with with a separate gasket and does not require replacement of the valve covers. That is good and makes for a cheaper fix. Now we need an extended warranty coverage and at least a one time replacement to the new design pan. Mine started to leak, but isn't significant and still doesn't drip on the floor.

As @Cerberus stated, H7 is probably overkill, by a big margin. As for fit, I don't expect it to fit. I remeber the battery tray having 3 holes for mounting thr battery, for H5, H6 & H7.

As @1004ron said, the rear axle does disengage. There is a clutch pack Infront of the RDU unit to disconnect the rear axle from the driveshaft. However, the driveshaft is still driven by the engine/PTU and the rear axle is driven by the wheels. The 2019 refresh added a "disconnect" function in the PTU that disengages the driveshaft, hence the driveshaft would stop rotating once disconnected from both ends.

It is in the manual here. With every oil change. So every 10k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

What about the Lincoln Nautilus? Should easier to find one with the 2.7L.

You have lost the reflective function, hence when the lights are off there the vehicle is less visible. In other words, it can be deemed less safe.

2015-2018 is also combo. Position+Direction light. However, for these years it uses a single filament bulb and changes the voltage to change from position lights to signal. On my 2016 I had the position lights disabled with ForScan (link here) so they function as turn signal lights only. For park we have the bumper mounted "signature" lights.

Maybe you have Lane Centering turned on? The button for it should on the steering wheel.

I clearly notice the extra wind noise when the shade is open. If the shade is close it is difficult to differentiate. The front windshield is always "laminated glass". It is tough. Laminated glass is made of two layers of glass with a material sandwiched in-between. It is much more difficult to break through. Tempered is a single sheet of glass I think thermally treated. When it breaks it shatters to small pieces.

Congrats on the new ride. I rented a 2023 Limited last month and it was great, though not powerful enough. Can only imagine how nice the ST would be with the 3.0 V6 and a tune. A Platinum is more of my taste, but still, the Explorer is very nice. Enjoy it and the Edge Forums will definitely miss you.

Just as @Cerberus stated, 10K is theft. The glass cost is about $600-$650 plus shipping. If it is the front (moving) panel, then the replacement process is very simple. 6 screws to remove. However, the rear is more involved as it requires to lowering the headliner and cutting the urethane that holds the glass. But, since the glass is already broken, maybe it can be cut from the top after breaking through the glass. Also, take note that the 2016 Edge has acoustic Laminated Roof glass. Newer (2019+ I believe) are regular tempered glass. Replacement glass from Ford for all models is also tempered glass. So if you are the type of person who gets irritated from additional sounds, I would recommend getting used replacement glass from a 2016-2018 model and ensure it has "Laminated Safety Glass" written on it. Roof Opening Panel Glass.pdf Roof Opening Panel Fixed Glass.pdf

The attached is for a 2015, but I'd guess it is the same for yours. The liftgate interior panels even have the same part numbers from 2015 to 2024. Liftgate Trim Panel.pdf

@1004ron I looked at mine and it looks like yours. I cannot determine if it's compressed or not. The rubber "flap" circled in the screenshot below is not compressed and can be moved. It seems like it is there to prevent metal to metal contact on high engine movements or vibrations. Also there is no oil leaking and no vibrations. I only have a clunk during throttle tip in after coasting, but I don't think it is from the mounts.

I have the same problem on my 2016 Sport. Both right doors. If I am mistaken, this trim only comes with the complete weatherstrip. Called run channel, and they're expensive, not worth replacing in my opinion. Might try to get the painted by a shop some day. Front. Rear.

Re-uploaded. Try now.

Like what was stated above, it just sprays with the rear washer. It is a simple and effective solution, too bad they removed it. The 2015-2018 models had the washer for front camera, when equipped. But not for the rear camera.

This is not applicable to the Edge Sport (2018 and older). They added it on later models, not sure when they started.

There was a TSB issued for something similar, though this doesn't mean it is your actual issue. Link to @Haz thread here.

The 2015-2018 Edge Sport also had unique exhaust tips. As for the ST, also in the Middle East (GCC at least) the exhaust tips are also round. I did not find any explanation for the difference.

With an OEM the lines should appear after programming. Who ever told you that there is no programming doesn't know or just doesn't want to do it. It is a simple programming process, with ForScan it's only a few minutes and you should get the lines.

On these older Gen 1 & 1.5 (2007 to 2014), most of the time fan issues are resolved with a new fan module. It comes as a set, 2 fans and the controller. And always go for Motorcraft because of the many stories of stories on this forum when aftermarket fan modules just don't work correctly.

Seems RDU failure are becoming more common than before.

You would probably find a used one on eBay for cheap and with simple DIY skills can change yourself.

@honerboys It think your mixing between PTU and RDU. If I am not mistaken, RDU failures are quite rare considering the number of produced vehicles. The concern was with the PTU that fails much more commonly. Also, the PTU is the one that now has a drain plug. The RDU still does not. As for compatibility, I believe you have to stick to your generation. 2011-2014 (+2015 MKX) or 2015-2018 or 2019+.

@Haz Could you please reupload the file? The files is not downloading correctly for me. It comes as a "0" size file (corrupt). I need to remove the left side center register on my 2016 Edge. Thanks.