Lex Talionis

word... stickers suck

I was pondering about the creation of a custom car emblem that matches that nice chrome bevel look of most cars emblems... but I wanted it to say something specific. Well, a little searching turned up this cool website that makes custom chrome looking emblems to say anything you want in 3 different font styles. They are very high quality looking & could look pretty trick when installed. Subtle way of making a statement as some might notice it and some might not as it blends in with your other EDGE emblems... I ordered one today with the phrase I wanted for less than $20 delivered.... here is an example of 1 of the cool fonts just thought others might find this useful as a cool accessory or way to personalize your car as it is much cheaper than a custom license plate.

have you seen this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1553

check eBay... I have seen them there by these guys - Nerf Side Step Bar Bars

I would wait and not feel overly concerned. in reading about that seal, the issue needs to be dealt with for sure - and under warranty of course - but it is not leading to a catastrophic failure of the parts or a major safety issue. heck, there are likely thousands of people out there driving around clueless they have this issue and the car is functioning. so, I would wait and take it in when you feel you can as you seem to have a legit reason to wait. just act like you do not know about the issue until March

I've heard this joke before.... the answer: 36 hours.... 1 hour to change sensor and 35 hours of vehicle sitting on lot until they remember to call you :P

as witty as that response is... it is not that easy nor always possible case in point, 2 dealers I visited would not - during test drive - unseal the (or any) GPS DVD and put it into the nav system so I could see it function. As a matter of fact, they are/were kept elsewhere still sealed and in the back office. In addition, IIRC there is even a sticker on the nav display that says something to the effect of only the owner of the vehicle should brake the seal and install the DVD. And the DVD is not given until time of sale. So, he may not have that option.

crazy.. this is a new change for a fact... I have built the Edge dozens of times in many configurations in the past month(s) prior to ordering mine and for a fact, as recent as the last 2 weeks, you COULD get/build these 2 items separate... wow, kind of an odd forced combo, but a new limitation for sure. naturally, you might be able to find one in stock at a dealer you want that was prior to this change... that Ford website has a cool tool for putting in your Zip and searching local dealers inventory for what you want: Let Us Find It (on a side note, I suspect this is related to some other on the down-low changes I have seen happen in early 2008 related to invoice pricing)

yeah 6P is out. cheapest on eBay and about 150$ retail. Still only claims about 1.57 million POI's, so not a huge update there. This DVD map update contains coverage across the continental United States and Canada as well as Alaska and Hawaii. It contains over 6.06 million miles of road and features more than 1.57 million updated points-of-interest including over: 449,700 restaurants 68,700 hotels 103,800 banks 108,000 ATMs 90,800 gas stations 245,600 auto service & maintenance locations 14,900 tourist attractions

wow... that is new news to me - someone actually mocking one up. cool. But, I am leery personally given you have no load and no wind resistance on your load to really test this mock up out. Plus, with Yakima they have no true honest fit recommendation for that car (only hitch and factory rail options) using their website and I do see now that Thule claims Aero Foot will work - but is light on info other than that. So, all that being said as it seems you have done homework... I would be a little sketched out to try it. I believe that if they really felt it was a wise move, they would make a system available like they do for factory rails. But they do not, and maybe it is just because they have concerns about something failing on the BAMR, or maybe it is because they do not feel one can get a substantial bite and the foot placement would put serious pressure on the roof when truly torqued down and with load and resistance and this could pinch the inner motorized system or damage the glass and top... not sure of course. This was a huge issue to me when considering this car as I travel with a LOT of bikes and have had Yakima racks for more than 15 years on all my cars tops... I even went to the dealer and looked at the roof once to consider if there was a way around it and if they just lied and the ports were there to attach the factory rail but just covered over or if there was a nice rain gutter to tie into I couldn't see in photos. Nada. So, the more I considered it, the more I just decided on rear hitch racks as I finally saw that roof and the amount of actual glass and lack of gutter treatment... hmmmm... I decided to pass. Last, those door jamb mount style feet/towers (versus a rain gutter mount or factory rails), though proven and solid, also often have the side effect of being clunky and a little bit of an eye soar in my opinion. As I said, I have had many cars with many high end racks - and just did my chicks Mazda 3 with a Yakima and never liked that as the tolerance is so tight between the door and jamb and it can tweak paint and what not. Maybe minor, but worth further considering when looking at the whole picture en total. Also, if you try to mock up again, try placing all 4 towers and cross bars and see if the distance is enough for the cargo carrier.. I have seen - just recently, that given the curve of the door jamb and what not that we could not place the towers where we had planned - farther apart we wanted - and in the end because of the location of the door jamb and its curved design had to put the cross bars/towers closer than expected and that changes available dimensions in center2center width for lining up holes for cargo containers or other mounts... if you do it.. post up photos and results as you got me curious now.

you might consider this option and use a hitch to carry what you need.. not as nice and a bit clunky.. but if it is this or nothing....

cant put towers up there as you have nothing to tie into. normally, the towers tie into a rain gutter for example, but when you look up at the BAMR.... there is no place to do so as they need/use all the room for the roof. this is why you cannot even get factory rails if you get the BAMR. no place to tie them into as it is used up by the BAMR.

got it, thanks guys... not sure why not standard now when it is on my 2000 VW - did safety research show it not really a safety advantage or something so some manufacturers made it an option instead of a standard feature? I thought it a pretty proven safety device to have them and so thought it odd they do not come standard with them turned on.. kind of interesting info/article I found: http://www.nordicgroup.us/drl/

yeah so this raises a question in my case is... to get the X Plan price I had to deal with and order via the Fleet department.. so does that mean mine would come with that fleet option turned on... or should I have been asked to have it turned on at the time I ordered from the fleet manager? I know I can still do it after.. but curious if dealing with fleet department, mine will come on.

I believe it is more that this is the actual power source to run the/a trailers lights (when activated by the brake pedal or park/reverse) and that is where the power source is drawn from... the tying into each actual lamp (left, right, signals, brakes) and what not is to just get the cars signal to the actual matching bulb on the trailer.. so they line up and left turn gets left turn on trailer... but the power line you must run will actually supply the power to run/power the electronic unit and supply power from that hitch plug on back as there is just not enough power to run the electronic unit & relay it out to the hitch lights/signals by just trying to draw it from the cars wiring system. boring.. but.... if you get this unit, versus that other one, post up results and actual install effort. I will be doing one of these 2.. unless someone finds and posts up something even easier - which i doubt is available for after-market

have you seen this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1553 - just up your alley I believe

From what I can tell from looking at my chart from the dealer, they are an 'option' - yep an option, and you must pay - like $45 MSRP - to have them turned on... that is how I read it.. (fixed a typo)

in doing a little research... I believe this is the kit you refer to... -T-One connectors (so it appears there is a T One kit) require no splicing of wires. Simply locate your vehicle's wiring harness connector, unplug the connection and insert the T-One Connector into the vehicle's harness. No special tools required. Many units now include circuit protection for your safety. -super full and complete directions WITH PICTURES!! -DOES require running wire to battery -30-45 minute install time claimed -$49.95 -2007-2008 Edge and MKX -118430 part # UPDATE: I have seen these now cropping up on ebay a little cheaper in price. seems to be the only option on eBay - so maybe it is the one of choice for hitch sellers.

ya know... this has been gnawing at me for a bit now and I have to admit I regret no doing it from the start. your right.. it is chump change in the scheme of things.. and I wish I had in retrospect just gone factory on it... As a matter of fact, I even recently called my dealer to see if there was any way to get that added or if it was too late... he tried and said too late given it is in line to be built. I will save a few bucks doing it myself & get the larger class III 2" size for more all around utility, but I now see my error as the money saved is not worth what else I would get had I spent the money. my bad.

where have you seen the 'kits' that 'plug in' (implying no splicing as you say) - post up links for others as others are not so averse to running a battery power line or splicing to get what what they need - and doesn't this find contradict the next statement? doesn't what you claim to have found above imply there is a plug just waiting to be accessed and said kits plug into that and then run a power line?? or is something lost in the explanation? irrespective of this post, post #4 and post #12 (all we really have to go on thus far) imply any after-market hitch setups (those not ordered & installed from factory with hitch in place) are wired different and we do have to manually splice in. As well, the only kits I have seen (like what I posted) are the electronic ones that do require splice and power line.

how about this?? click here scroll down to Draw tite Modulite Wiring Kits Modulite® Protector, with Its Integrated Circuit Protection Safeguards Itself and the Tow Vehicle Against Harmful Electrical Shorts and Mis-wire Situations. Recommended on all vehicles that do no have a T-One Kit (which it seems the Ford Edge does not). -Isolates Trailer Light Operation From Tow Vehicles Electrical System. -Necessary For Today's Vehicles With Computerized Operating Systems. -Will Not Interfere with Tow Vehicle Computer Systems And Anti-Lock Brake Systems. -Works with 2 Or 3 Wire Lighting Systems. -$40 -has a very detailed wiring diagram, so not plug-n-play and have to splice into Edge wires, but directions look very complete -claims less than 1 hour install

once you get this code - is it like the master code that always works but yet you can set your own code - or is it this code and this code for life?

Been having some slow emails with Tier II tech at Ford and here are some tidbits I got. not totally helpful or a fix per se, but figured I would just post up what I learned from them. might aid someone? First email with directions (which we pretty much know already) but which seem a little incomplete at step 6. Pairing with a Treo 650: 1. On your Treo 650, press Applications Launcher . 2. Launch the Bluetooth application. 3. At the top of the screen, make sure Bluetooth is on. 4. Select Setup Devices. 5. On the next screen, select Hands-Free Setup. 6. You'll see the Handsfree Setup screen with introductory text ("This guide will help you pair your Treo..."). press the Handsfree Setup and then Next to begin pairing Then I got this - I underlined the portion of interest as it kind of implies a different method (initiated via the Ford Sync system) than above (initiated via the Treo BT app): The situation described is known, though the extent of the issue has not been clearly defined. We have found that the Treo 650 does not pair with Sync on a consistent basis, though when paired and connected it seems to have no further trouble connecting in the future. As this is not a device that has been tested by the Sync engineers, we can not verify this claim as being accurate. It is based entirely on the troubleshooting results we have had with other customers. Our suggestion is to continue attempting to pair your phone, thought it may be helpful to have Sync find your phone using the Find Devices option or using a Special PIN. Those options are available during the pairing process, the former by pressing the Seek arrows when Find Sync is shown, the latter is available by pressing the Seek arrows when the PIN is shown on the screen. The Sync system I originally tried to Sync with was the more basic scrolling text radio without the interactive touch screen Sync they mention above.

so your gonna slap a 2008 Limited badge on an 2007 SEL +? :eek5: thats false advertising isn't it J/K

hey ScnStir... I have several Sirius radios already and was wondering how the 6 month free worked? did the dealer give a code or something or was it just on and will turn off in 6 months? or, did you have to make an account to get the 6 months and setup billing for when the 6 months ends? just curious how this works?