Lex Talionis

I would be really curious to see something like a white sand tricoat with white rims of some type. I am curious how that would look.

Are those not just the "20 Inch Chrome Clad Aluminum Wheels"? an 895$ upgrade - or are the spokes thinner... hard to tell here is the wheel selection from Ford (the one above is from the Lincoln site) and these Ford ones look to be it and with thinner groups of spokes - like they put the 20" Fords on the Lincoln? From left to right: Optional 18" painted-aluminum wheels, optional 18" chrome-clad aluminum wheels, optional 18" premium painted aluminum wheels, optional 20" chrome-clad aluminum wheels and standard 17" painted aluminum wheels

wow... nice passive aggressive zinger there... :yup: anyway.. regaurding just this quote you posted from another website, this is not always the prevalent view in all the research one can do.. since the 4300k is more light output than 6000k, it is rather noticeable that they are not stock and in fact conversions. all that bright light and you stand out.

I cant give full details or totally meet your step by step needs.... but on a high level view & basics as I see it... you would need to tap into the ignition wire to make sure all items got power and come on ONLY when key powered up and key shut down when car turned off. I never do this as often, when adding after-market items I want them to run when the car is not on or key not in ignition. As for why yours do not turn right off right when vehicle is turned off.. they would not if not tied into an ignition wire. Plus, I understand - but do not know exact specifics - the Edge has like a 10 minute 'convenience' feature that keeps power to items in the car (stereo, map lights, nav, etc) for that time or until you get out. So that would explain that.. Anyway, one way you could do this is to tap into your ignition wire so that everything powers on and off at that time with key insert.. then, run everything through a rocker or toggle type switch(es) from radio Shack as they have a killer selection - you could get 1 with correct voltage/amp to handle them all, or do a cool concealed bank of them (maybe all in that deep dash center console) with all the same cool matching switch. This way, when car powers up, all items have power and then 1 throw (or push or flip) of one switch (or all if you put them on different switches) would power them all up. Sounds like you would want 1 switch though and if so, you could leave the switch always on and then the car turning on would turn them all on or off and maybe at times you could flip it to off if you wanted none of them active. you could still conceal it in the center console for example. hope it helps in some way to get the juices flowing as it sound like you want kind of a tricky setup that covers a lot of options.

I was kind of thinking about this topic and you know, neither my Acura, VW nor my chicks Mazda have lighted controls for the moonroof. I really cannot see this as an issue and suspect their is more than plenty of light to see by and that most vehicles likely do not have those controls lit up. heck, the light coming in from the BAMR alone would make enough light to see the buttons 1 would think - let alone stray light from the dash and what not.

I gave this a LOT of thought... looked at photos, watched videos, scoured the web for topics like "4300k versus 6000K" and blah blah blah... lots o research... and in the end, I decided on the 6000k... here was my own personal reasoning, in basic terms: 4300K puts out more light and brighter natural light than 6000k. time and time and time again I read and visually saw (photos and videos) with no real discernible blue tint. Whereas 6000k has a slight blue tint - noticeable also in photos and videos. now, either 4300k or 6000k blow the doors off standard factory lights, so no matter what, you get a massive increase in light output. so, in that sense, you are way ahead of the game whether you select 4300 or 6000k if greater light output is one of the goals. so, I took that aspect out of the equation as either way, I get way more light - like 3x - than a standard car halogen. So, then I went to the next goal I personally wanted to achieve, that 'euro' blue tint feel I happen to like. Yes, I know that most factory HID installs are closer to 4300k... but the 4300k I read time and time again was bright enough that it could be overly noticeable and attention causing (about 3100 lumens versus 2900 lumens respectively). As we know, the higher temp rating (k) the less actual lumen/light output. So, in my personal logic, 4300k may draw attention for it being just that much brighter while the 6000k was not so bright and it had the bluer tint I desired. Yes, it could bring attention for the bluer tint in the end... but, it was less light output than 4300k but much more than standard, so it met my goal. And yes, I read tons of threads and understand reflector types and shapes and what not and I am by no means a pro on this or care at that level of minutia and know the Edge is not even dialed in to do an HID kit relative to those aspects... so this is how I finally decided. And believe me, I spent a lot of time vacillating on this choice. hope it helps someone and just my personal opinion and in the end I could get them and reserve the right to change my mind, but I had to make a choice and this seemed a logical approach.

he is correct.. illegal but I have no compunction in breaking this law.. and plan to :P

sengland... so which exact Valentine did you order? you might not be an 'expert' - but it is hard to beat feedback from a guy who uses them both and does real world testing.. thanks.

if you have not purchased yet... I live in socal and have no need for AWD so passed... sometimes it would be nice, but in real day to day driving, just not a realistic need. I ordered FWD and feel 100% confident with that. I think it totally comes down to the climate you live in. If you have a snowy season like the midwest, which is what I spent 18 years growing up in, AWD would be a go for me, but where I live, no real reason for the 5 times I 'might' need it a year. I would base my decision on that.

already saw it my man, days ago :P .... sent it to my brother as that is what is nickname is..

check this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=672 and check this one: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1890 the quick answer is there is not way to put factory Ford rails on with the BAMR... and it is debatable if you can even put on any after market towers.. but if you want no cross bars, you are surely out of luck if someone even does find a way to do a tower safely as you would need cross bars to hold the towers.. so I think you are SOL if you seek just the look of the rails

I thought I would post up some links I found on YouTube that show actual video installs and differences in colors before and afters.. there are many, here are just 2 I picked - good resource for HID stuff. hope it helps you like me: - basic install video - very cool before and after with night driving video want to see a high resolution image (warning, big photo) of what an HID kit looks like: http://frank.newbiverse.com/include/images/HIDs/all.JPG disclaimer: I am not endorsing any brand and naturally your car will vary from the videos in slight ways, but it makes the point..

thanks for the detailed response. much appreciated. This HID is an option I am personally toying with as I have started to order accessories for my soon to arrive Edge. At $70 or so I was looking at (quote I got from VVME: also 35w, also straight 100% plug-n-play, 14 month warranty is not nearly as good as yours and not sure on comparable ballast technology nor on waterproofness vs resistant I must admit) I felt like 'no harm no foul Lex... if they are lame, oh well'. But at a much higher price point, I need to think on it more. I was about to pull the trigger on the ones I mentioned.. but you have given me pause to rethink.

okay... I am just going to ask as I am curious, I bet others want to know and it will get asked eventually So, what is the difference between your $200-300 kit and say a $70-100 kit from say eBay or VVME (both mentioned elsewhere). You really mention waterproofness, but given what these are for and where they go, I would be hard pressed to think another kit is less waterproof given any maker knows there is a good chance these would get wet so cover their asses in that aspect. You also mention a "guaranteed for LIFE" - that might be a difference between other brands, but I am not sure. Quality & price are talked about in the other HID install thread, what are your thoughts relative to your product?

you also said earlier "Although the blue tint to the 6000k is very cool, with the reflector not being as effective as the Mustang's, I would probably recommend 4300k." - so you say 4300k is the way... but reading and looking at the cool chart on VVME seen here, it shows with an image and they say you will not really get the blue tint unless you minimally go to the 6000k... part of the goal is the extra light output, but a big part is the blue tint, which their lit says will not come until you go to 6000k...your thoughts on that as you seem the only one here having real practical experience? FWIW...I have tried to contact these eBay guys like 3 times with no response... in reading their Feedback, this seems to be a common theme with them. So, I might go with those from VVME..

how hard was it? did you heat and pull off or simply just pull off. I assume they are sticky back or are they the post type with drill holes?

a Google search turns up that URL that Tom has an image of in post #10 (which seems to be overlooked) and under INTERIOR it clearly says "oil change reminder" - this is in reference to a 2008 http://www.wheels.ca/newVehicles/profile/30569

funny thing is.. I want neither the Limited nor AWD emblems.. (though the car I ordered is not AWD anyway but is a Limited)... the one I ordered I would rather have over any of the other badges as matter of fact, there is chance I will see about removing Limited for this emblem instead.

here we ago... AGAIN...this is like the 4-5th time (twice in this thread alone), across multiple topics mind you, where you yourself have "over and over. And over and over" again re bought up the majorly serious feaux pa that I may have offended the Ford Edge forum gods with some petty dual/cross posting.... so are we even now? you now officially look like the pot calling the kettle black as this stage you publicly remind me of this nearly every chance you get. oh... but I forgot, it is okay when it comes from you but not cool if someone else does something similar. even worse, "we both went OUT OF OUR WAY to help you with your purchase" - don't pat yourself on the back to much as more times than not, your a hinderance than a help. if your version of 'help' requires me to deal with you for life on this forum, I would rather you never 'help' me again as your brand of 'help' always comes loaded.. heck, you even use the fact that you 'helped' me against me.

I wasn't talking about him.... but I'll give you 1 guess who I was taking about (and there is a difference between sarcasm and rudeness... my reply here is an example of solid well placed sarcasm with a twist of irony... yours, well.....)

I was going to wait and post it up when I got it all in place and could have a photo.... .. it's like Heintz ketchup.. oh, the anticipation

yes, you are leaking fluid and yes, it should be fixed.... when is the question. but it is a matter of (1) degrees and (2) risk. The leaking fluid is minor leak really, not one that is reported to lead to a major failure of a part causing injury nor is it one where there was 100% fluid loss leaving bearing on bearing for example. Second, you have to look at the risk. She might feel that the risk of being without the car in snowy conditions is much higher than the risk of a minor leak being allowed to leak for a few more months and to then have it fixed under warranty. It ends up a judgement call. No one is saying or did say to not get it fixed, it is just merely a matter of prolonging it until she feels she can safely be without the car as it seems reports tend to lead you to believe this is not a 1 day fix and one should/could expect to be out of that car for many days.

boy... that is a heck of a diatribe.... I can only say, as a simple answer as I simply cannot respond to every point, just do not even post up if you are not going to help. that is the crux of this issue. why waste your time and others time and taunt a guy by posting up about "looking for the answer yourself"??? it implies to others that you think the guy is so dumb, he did not think of that himself.... it is just rude and in the end, adds nothing. In the end virtually EVERYTHING talked about here could be looked up in a manual, found elsewhere on the web, or from some other source.... so why even have the forum then if that is one of your points? the forum is here for everyone of every level. period. no one - new or old - is better than anyone else. if someone asks a question and it is causing you angst... just stay out of it as normally someone here will step up with an answer - nicely. but don't waste the time posting up in an effort of trying to put a guy in his place. it just gets so petty here like that with the innuendo and insinuation, it gets old. "All I ask is that people treat me/us as politely as I/we treat them"... yeah, this is a nice thought, but just make sure you expect that from everyone and hold everyone to that standard, even those that have been around... cause I do not see that happen much. and be rest assured, it I knew the answer, I would have posted it rather than telling him to go look for it as I am not here to taunt people. :beatdeadhorse: - lets move on

thanks for asking this question... this is good info to know as I forgot to take this into consideration.... I have a jacked up 1974 FJ40 in 1 bay of the garage that barely makes it, and never thought about the fact that with the auto open power gate, it could be an issue since with my VW, I can just open to the height I desire (even though it does clear fine). I do recall the dealer telling me & demonstrating that the auto power gate has a feature that will stop it should it butt up against a solid item (like an overhanging item on your rack or the garage door or a ceiling). also, FWIW, I learned a bit back here that you can also disable the power lift gate if you need to and make it manual.. that's good to know.

what is the harm on just giving the dude the answer? :unsure: you take the time to type a response and yet didn't just give the answer... that is irritating if anything is. people come here for all kinds of info that is available elsewhere - other websites, manuals, dealer... so what. did it ever dawn on you that vsutton does not have the car or the manual and is just asking or that others just browsing the site might find this bit of info good to know?