Lex Talionis

I thought I would bump this back up since it seemed it was solved by someone here, and posted in a different thread, and they did an awesome job... see this http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1890

see this useful thread, a lot of details on prices, hitches, install... http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1698

according to the current documentation, NO phone (or provider) yet handles all 20 possible features. ATT comes close with 1 phone claiming 18 of the features. so everyone is lacking - no matter what phone - according to their 'approved' list. rumor - as of last week - is that Verizon will get the Treo Centro in the coming month(s) and as that IS on the list for Sprint, one would hope (with fingers and toes crossed) it would work for Verizon on Sync as well.

someone correct me if I am wrong... but fuses will always be hot. the current runs through the fuses at all times from the battery.. the fuse just completes the circuit. then from the fuse box to the item (radio, lights, stereo, map light, etc.) So, any time you tap into the fuse box direct (shove the wire under the fuse) you are always tapping into a hot system. You need to tap into a wire - for example - that runs to a system that could (1) handle the power needs/amps of the fuzz buster AND item it is suppose to run and (2) only is activated when engine is one. Plus, it will need to be grounded - which is why the cord from the buzz buster, when cut, has 2 wires (red and black or hot and ground). An example you might be able to tie into would be the stereo, or an overhead map light or something only powered up when key is on. now, all this would be under dash unless you maybe taped into something like the auto dim rearview mirror - assuming it is fused to handle the power of both items - as that would be up high and could then be visor mounted and wires hidden in the rear view mirrors wire bundle and headliner. or.... you could do as you have done and not get that involved and just remember to turn off the fuzz buster

that purpling issue is typically due to low quality tint. Their are many good tints... I have read a lot on this website recently- I have had ALL my cars tinted - and just had my chicks done with QDP as will mine be when I get it... just go with a reputable company that does it a lot car tinting - versus a DIY from pep boys or napa. BTW, I tried to tint an Acura once on my own and it is (1) brizzzzzutal and (2) crappy tint from pep boys purpled over time. I have 7 year old Solar Guard on my VW and it looks awesome now as when new.

GREAT write up... your the man. and likely the first to have actually done it... well done.. I stand corrected keep posting up on any honest feedback as you put this system through it's paces. (now you better get some lock cores before someone ganks that nice rack off that nice car)

In my personal opinion.... yes. Based simply on the fact of longevity in the business, quality of product, attachment and sport options, innovativeness in their designs and offerings, and very important fact of the ubiquitousness of finding spare parts all over the USA in bike shops for Yakima and Thule. I have had both those 2, seen them all, and would buy only Yakima for me if I could do roof rack on BAMR.

I doubt it. not legal in many states plus you would be better suited - faster and more affordable - to have tine company come to you and do it: 20% charcoal seems to be the closest match to factory privacy glass.

if you have factory racks.... your options via Thule and Yakima are endless.

you don't "need" them - some just believe that the lights do not perform optimally unless they are set in a specific HID projector/reflector versus ours that are made for Halogens. where do you hear the buzzing? under the hood? do you have electrical feedback on the radio for example?

GREAT information about the digital ballast, DRL mention, 6000k bulb mention and great photo.. all from someone with actual hans on working experience.

which kit besides the McCullogh?

oh man.... a whole lot you can read out there about the pros/cons of putting HID into a reflector (or car essentially) that is not even designed to have HID... I will not go there as I plan to put HIDs in mine with no 'correct' reflector (as do many) but there are certainly opinions about doing so. more importantly of interest... which kit did you use, where did you get it, what bulb did you use (4300 or 6000) and did you put in relays?

what you quote - 1750 - seems to be for a Lease.. but yep, looks like you have an additional $1,000 Conquest Bonus Customer Cash in that area.. SCORE!

1500 is on 2008's 2000 in on 2007's

but what qualifies as a 'non-Ford vehicle' that would qualify? for example, anything? or just similar cross-overs like Mazda or Murano or Tribeca? and, where - what Ford website/link - do you find out about this actual incentives AND in what regions they apply?

though a viable option, I am not a big fan of these models - had them in the past: 1. they require those straps that have those plastic coated hooks that get pushed into the quarter panel space which over time really seems to tweak paint and what not as they move about, get taken on and off and on and off 2. easy to steal 3. plus with the Edge, it seems that top strap most come over the rear sun shade and then down to the rack which seems like a LOT of downward pressure on that sun shade - which is not really a solid weight bearing object. 4. those straps can vibrate in the wind making whack noises

my dealer seems to know.. he called and informed me of the build date before it even showed up on my Blue Oval tracking thread. So, it seems they must have something. He even gave me an estimated delivery day/week.. which is not even on the Blue Oval tracking threads as their next date after Ship Date there is the Arrival Date... we will see just how accurate the dealer is as he was spot on on the build date.

interesting work around.... thanks for the tip... seems the one downfall here is that this would eat up the available 25 (?) destinations you can store in your navi?

Radio shack, pep boys, auto zone, napa all have relays... they can be tricky to install if you are wiring handicap as I have installed many on my truck for after-market fog lights, fans, etc.. but they should have a relay... not a tricky item to get. well.. in reading jparks comments - which I have seen him talk about in another longer HID thread - maybe the 'correct' type of relay is harder to acquire than I claimed.

interesting.... I have read of many, many, many that did not take a relay and would also assume that the seller would know this and advise in advance. but, it sounds like you have some specific knowledge for the Edge. Is it possible those needing relays opted for 55w systems versus a plenty perfect 35w for the Edge and that is the issue on why some are reporting needing a relay? anyway... this kind of brings up a point I was going to do when I install mine - it seems smartest thing to do is to wire it all up and test the install prior to mounting ballasts and placing bulbs in their homes/reflectors. This way, if you hook it all up and set it on the engine and test it and find an issue, you will not have to pull wires (cut zip ties, etc), unmount ballasts you just mounted and disconnect fragile bulbs from their holders and known fragile reflectors. This would also allow for quickly going back to the factory setup if you did find an issue with the kit you could not solve.

should have read this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1694 talks all about the thinness of that OEM mat and mentions other better offerings like Weathertech view my gallery to see the weathertech in my car

having not installed a set yet, and not knowing your set - but having heard of it - I have done a decent amount of research and I would speculate (1) bad ballast or (2) you did not make good clean connections. I would check connections first - pull them all and replug in. If it is in fact a true plug-n-play you will get your ground and your power and not need a relay. I have read a few people here and there mention relays.. not sure why in those kits they needed one - as most modern current kits are straight plug-n-play. best I can offer but cbrenn71 here is selling kits and may have more actual experience.

there is a certain truth to this.. both areas WILL get scratched...but it IS the best of what's around and better something than nothing.

I dig the 4th first or 3rd second as the best.