Lex Talionis

and make sure you get the sensors put in that can read the tire pressure

look into these by XO Vision.... probably just what you want click here model GX6103 is a replacement for the headrests in the car. can be wired into the cars system BUT NOT the nav/dvd system up front like the stock DVD system. wired in to just get power. looks almost stock for like $160 for the set. I have read good things about them and plan to do them as a future project. only 'issue' I can see is that they do not have the white stitching on the black ones (they also have like tan and gray I think), but I read elsewhere here they are not to bad a match. 160 at Walmarts

still not clear to me... That newly released download is not a "new" Sync version or an 'update'. It looks to be just a verification tool "Sync Status Checker". As the only "new Sync" version/update - released a while ago - is only for 2008 model year Lincoln vehicles equipped with navigation radios and THX sound with the Sync language set to either French or Spanish.... not sure what you mean when you say "successfully installed the new version" as this tool is jut checking your system, which it seems to know what you have already, and not actually applying a new update. I guess what seems odd as it knows what you have, but wants you to use this tool to tell them again what you have as this tool is not actually an update of anything. Rereading that tool explanation... I am more wondering now if what it is doing is collecting data on what you have have customized or user habits on the system and what you use it for. some data collection. it is collecting this data to get an idea of how you use your system and giving them the feedback essentially. maybe to help them tailor needs down the line. "This will enable us to keep you informed of pertinent enhancements and updates as they become available. In short, knowing how your Sync unit is configured will help us do a better job of serving you."

awesome idea! love that trick... I was thinking, as here in CA you would get a fix-it-ticket. this means you have to go to a cops office, they come out and confirm the 'fix' and you pay a $25 fine and move on. so, you could use simple silicon gasket seal from any auto store and silicon it on. the beauty is, gasket seal or silicon will then peal right off and leave no marks or drill holes.

it explains that that is how it 'confirms' and helps them maintain your actual Sync history: The last step—and it’s an important one—is to confirm the successful installation. When you’re done installing the files in your vehicle’s Sync system, return to your computer and plug the same USB drive into the same USB port you used to download the files. This will upload confirmation files. but the odd thing is, when you log in it gives you your installed Sync version - so it already knows - so not sure why this is needed. For example, based on VIN, mine shows CI (confirmed install): 5.5.7226_sp0

so if you had a platinum wedding ring, it would be a good time to sell?

first, what actual down adjustment did you decide to make? quarter turn, half turn, full turn, 5 turns? and why that number? second, the problem with these garage door photos - and there are a lot on the web - is it not very relative to true traffic so you are not really sure what you are looking at. yeah, I can see the difference, but what does this translate to on an actual road? it certainly seems like you adjustment gets you a bit more coverage right in front of you and drops down of curse.. but was that the intended goal and what is the the before and after feel on the actual road to yourself and your vibe towards others?

Home Depot, and some auto parts stores, have small plugs that can fill those holes. they are not color matched nor are they 'specific' bumper bracket hole plugs, just generic hole plugs, but they can make do if you get the right size and want a cleaner finish.

interesting story... http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/23117250/ what will they think of next?

check this for details: http://www.fordvehicles.com/crossovers/edge/features/ make see if you can select '07 model as I am not sure if it varies between 08 and 07 for those 2 packages. but this link will give you the gist of those options.

if you wanted to know that.. you read the wrong thread... try reading http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1914 or http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1553

Looks like Ford is now stocking it's own after-market wiring kit. No good photos or details and pretty costly: Trailer Hitch Wiring Harness, 4-Pin Part Number: 7T4Z-15A416-B MSRP: $103.00 This 4-pin wiring harness assembly is made to plug into the factory electrical system. The 4-pin design does not allow the use of trailers with electric brakes. Dealer installation recommended. Fits: Ford Edge 2008 2007

nice first photo I have actually seen with an Edge with running boards

New update.. seems to work for some, but not others: "1st I made a hard reset on both my palm and SYNC, then I started all the sync process again and when you get the 6 digit pin on the SYNC screen press << >> to see other options, it will show you a SPECIAL PIN option, if you select this, it will set the SYNC pin number to 0000, after that just put this 0000 code into the palm and that’s it. I tried it in both phones and it is working great." pretty scary making a hard reset as that level erases all your data.. of course one would hope data is backed up.. but kind of an odd move

can u post a photo of your install? see my gallery to see mine installed

seems they saved it for the more coveted MKX

nice choice.. I did a bit of snooping on price on those and those ain't cheap

I get your gist... but reaiming down as way to cover your tracks - if not needed - also reduces the distance the light is projected over. so you loose one of the benefits. As for police, I have not read that people reaiming their lights down reduced this chance. I understand it being that the change is so drastic, it is noticeable no matter what you do. What really seems to be more of the cop tip off, from what I understand, is the blueness of the tint - based on temp of bulb you select 4300, 5000, 6000, 8000k etc. but as I said in the beginning, lots of opinions here and none of what I just said takes into consideration if you even changed projectors versus just throwing in the HID kit and using the stock system. Since you are putting in H11 into same location and place of old H11 - and into a not HID compliant reflector - is it just true pull out and put in or do you have to adjust your aim? I have read a lot on this topic, and though no pro, I recall very little mention of people installing and ALSO mentioning reaiming when doing it. That is where I am coming from as will reaiming really matter since our reflectors are not HID complaint anyway.

yes, much of what you post have been covered in several threads. many know after-market is not the same as factory (battery, fans, radiator, wiring, hitch is welded on versus bolted, etc). but it all depends on your needs.. for, me, just to ever carry bikes. would have been nice to just have the hitch done for me in retrospect, but no worries putting one on. BTW, if you can find a Ford Edge hitch Class III for 99$ - your the man. Lots of posts here on the forums and personal web searching, no 99$ quality hitch out there. Best deal is realtrucks.com and use their 8% off coupon code mentioned elsewhere.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1969

post #7 says 100 pounds

isn't the better question.. should or would you even need to after installing HID?

Okay... you posted this theory in 2 places, but I am going to just address it here as it is the hot place at the moment. I posted your theory and provided information on a BIG HID thread managed by a pretty reputable company - from what I can tell - and here is the first response I got back. None of this is my response nor, as we know, is it my theory... I just edited down what you asked and posted it there as I find it an interesting concern that needs addressing. I hope people find it useful and helpful - I know I am. Is this theory or did someone actually blow the FET on their board? The reason I ask is because if someone managed to blow a FET on the board it is only because there is no overload or short-circuit protection on the boards either, kind of a dumb thing to do by the circuit designer on an automative application. Could and would are two very different things. Using a harness to alleviate all load from the OE harness and controls would remedy that, and we have those available. The pulse width modulation in the same sense may screw with the relay on the harness as well, depends on the wave form used (square vs. sigmoid) and the frequency. The only way to know for sure is by trying it out. The other thing to do is find if the PWM cicuit is before or after the controls in the cabin based on a wiring diagram. If it is after, you may be able to bypass all that. Shoot me an email about this directly. I will shoot him an email as requested and see what more, from a company that sells tons of these, installs them, and seems to have a solid reputation in using digital ballast HID kits, and report back what I find. UPDATE: here is the follow up email I got: The harness does not really protect the junction box, it simply removes it from supplying the ballasts with power. Instead the OE low beam signal powers a coil in a relay to close the cicuit directly from battery to the ballasts. the question is since the relay is an electro-magnetic device, is if the PWM will keep it closed constantly or if it will result in an open/closed/open/closed type of thing. It is not unique to your vehicle, but ever vehicle's control is different, on VW it requires a standard 6800uF cap and on Saab for example it requires loss of the fog lights through reprogramming the car computer at a dealership. I'd just try it out with the harness and see how it goes. I guess this begs the questions... kind of risky to just 'try it out and see how it goes'. if it goes bad, the HID kit will not be your worry. and if it seems it goes bad, you will not find out until the junction box dies.... assuming this is even a real issue to be concerned about. I posted him a follow up email and will post if he adds anything of value. UPDATE 2: I responded and simply asked him "Based on what you know, see, experience, industry knowledge... Are you concerned about what I raised or me using these?" No, with the relay harness (an additional item about $10) it relieves all the danger from over current in the "junction box." Even if you did not use the extra relay harness, that circuit is a ticking time bomb on a motor vehicle if over-current and short-circuit protection are not built in. In the very least there is a fuse to potect that system! Once again, this is something someone seems to have not fully understood as there is no solid proof to back up the theory, and apparently the theory does not take into account correct automotive electronics are designed. Automotive electrical systems are extremely "noisy" by their very nature, they are prone to current and voltage swings, frequency interference, etc. Once again, by using the relay harness, there will be a reduction in the load that "junction box" will see versus the draw your stock bulbs use. The harness draws power directly from the battery, not the OE junction box and harness. UPDATE 3: when I asked "so, I should be getting this relay harness then to be safe?" yes, you can not do it without it, the ballasts will not work in a PWM state. The only reason I surmise that you need a relay is that you mention PWM, most cars don't have this, very rare actually. But If others are using digital kits without a ballast flickering or dim HID output and no relay, then you should be able to do the same, however given what you have told me - about PWM concern - it does not seem as that should be the case. Like I said before, the control circuit there has to internally protected from any dangers the ballasts would cause by requiring more current on start-up.

I have owned MANY roof racks - and installed many. Big fan. I was initially super bummed when I read and researched about no factory rails with a BAMR as I am a big fan of using towers on factory rails anymore versus the towers - like you did - that use the open door jamb spaces just because I feel that the factory rails with towers is a cleaner mount and look and the door jamb towers I have seen over time start to ruin the finish of the paint (under the feet gets no sun so it colorizes and the 'hooks' in the jambs wear at the paint) while the rubber door jamb molding begins to form to the towers hook and has less and less of a seal over time. So, I guess I just started to accept I would have to - for the first time ever - use a rear hitch mounted carrier. And you know, I got comfortable with the idea as having the unhindered BAMR was super important to me. So now, I am actually excited to not have a rack on the roof for the first time in like 20 years so I can keep the clean and cool look of this ride intact and have no sound reverberation or line of sight blockage issues. Anyway, I am pumped you pulled it off and it works and I am sure others will be as well. Always good to have options. I am surprised you took it off and will make it modular that way as it is so hard and time consuming to realign towers, their feet, tighten cross bars perfectly and evenly, get equal distances, etc. But hey, if it works for you. It also looks to me like you could slide back the bike mount and still not interfere with the boot opening and maybe have better front driver view up?

does this help http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=591 I also just read this "To remove the headrests, simply straighten the outermost end of a paperclip, raise the headrest to its uppermost position, insert the paperclip into the small hole on the plastic headrest guide, and press firmly while pulling upwards on the headrest. "