Lex Talionis

hey awesome! thanks for that link. yep, they do use Navteq.. so I will research this link and see if I can inform them of some new key roads they may not have yet in my area. cool.

dude.. take it easy.. you are taking this way to far and going on about it..

agreed... it was a 100% rhetorical question, guess I figured that was painfully obvious, I would never expect an answer to that question on a public forum.. so to fixate on it like it matters... it is just the way to open the line of questioning... ya think?? I was just ribbing him... hence the terms "stick in the mud" and "kurmugeon" my tint guy said this is not toally true as 'privacy glass' seems to vary by company. he said he has matched some 100% and others, a little harder to match and all are called privacy glass. plus, tint does not come in a ton of options for %. so, 20% seems to be the closest. for example, there is not a 22% or 18% - so 20% was the closest match so, I am about to install new speakers... I guess I better be told not to turn them up to loud as it might hurt my and my dogs ears

WOW... heck of a mean tirade for my more tongue and cheek questioning.. guess I hit a nerve

okay... bbf2530 I have been wanting to ask: are you a lawyer, maybe a risk analyst, insurance agent, maybe an ex cop or something? You are such a stick in the mud dude. This is like 5 or 6th or so topic I can recall (window tinting, HIDs, torsion bar, engine tunes, suspension lower, front license plates, wheel width) where you come right in and lay out the disclaimers and safety concerns.. when in reality, no one really asks for that stuff.. people just want to, and are going to, tint windows, install HIDs, adjust their suspension, put on trick wheels.. so I don't get it. always need to seem to play the kurmugeon father or big brotha role and inform people of the risks of doing the thing they want to do. everyone here is an adult. Anyway.. the consensus is 20% charcoal will get you what you want. I did it and it looks AWESOME.. as have many and that seems the best match for privacy glass in this case. I think it is a 'must do' upgrade as it looks whacky to me to have privacy glass all around except the front

in the rear near the sub

I just got this info on the amp: "there is a good change the Ford amp uses speaker level inputs, so if you got a amp with speaker level inputs or a LOC (Line Output Converters), you would be okay as far as inputs and outputs go. You would probably want to run new main power direct from the battery and ground wires though." Yeah, probe the dealer with this info and let us know what you find out about pulling the amp and upgrading it. BTW - what I meant by hardcore is - in the end - you are looking at replacing everything you paid for. for me, that is hardcore.

yep, I knew we could update to another DVD - 6p being current - I meant is there a way to provide feedback- like TomTom does via the internets - to the maker so they are made aware of new roads so it gets put into the next upgrade? I doubt it given there is no web interaction like he TomTom has..

I would first check my connections especially the pigtails to make sure they are seated well. I taped mine with electrical tape just to be safe.

I would certainly think this is not normal. I hate giving the "just take it to the dealer" response, but unless it is weather related - GPS signal getting blocked, this seems not normal. Now and then, when just in the driveway, I get a NO GPS icon... but that goes away pretty quick and i just wondered if it was my roof-line blocking enough of the signals to triangulate me. But, I do not have it show weird data like yours does about being off road or 2 blocks over. On a similar note about inaccuracies.... if the DVD nav system is not aware of a new street - is there any way to update it or send the maker an update to advise them there is a road now where there was not one on the DVD? I know my chicks TomTom can do this and advise their system online so that it/you can make adjustments. I know we cannot do it that way as ours is not internet connected nor removable, but I wonder if there is a method of feedback about new roads? There are a few new streets in my hood it does not know about so wants me to take a few out if the way roads I no longer need to as more direct routes are now available.

no, no plans to do highs. I rarely ever use highs to be honest and the lows are good for me. I was also under the impression that on not Bi light systems, like the Edge. using HID on the high beams was not as advantageous as the halogen because the instant on time needed and quick flash usage of high beams here and there for immediate instant on bright high beam needs was better served by halogen than HID ballast system. I agree it would look better for sure, but I am going to pass at this stage.

so, it seems this did not fix that jagged edge issue. it still persists despite removing that plastic ring. In emailing Todd, he responded.... The driver side looks better than the passenger side, but the driver side I can see the domestic DOT pattern there, looks exactly like the new style Mustang stock output funny enough. So in essence, the Driver side is a typical result for a US manufactured vehicle DOT spec. (there is a different DOT spec for domestic vehicles versus imports). Try swapping the bulbs to the opposite sides, just to rule out that flaring on the passenger side coming from the bulb itself. this is looking more and more like just the way it is - which is plenty fine with me - and just a result of a not HID friendly reflector in the Edges. Just wanted to get to the bottom of it.

way to hardcore and more serious then me. I am not trying to install tweeters and replace the whole system like what you may be doing. I think speakers will do me real good. As a matter of fact, I have already committed to and ordered the INFINITY KAPPA 682.7CF based on some installing feedback I got from a member here last night who has actually successfully installed them front and rear. These speakers get great reviews and are within the budget I set for this project and from all I can see, I will get a great advantage by at least doing speakers. Yes, I could replace the whole darn system, but no thanks. I like sound, but not that much if you feel me. BTW, did you confirm or deny that the OEM amp is plug and play removable to another model?

post up when you find out if the current OEM amp is plug and play.. then I will consider the amp route as well.. now, what do you think of the JL Audio TR570-CXi? They claim to fit front and rear on the Edge. Can't find any reviews of them versus the Kappas which have a ton on Crutchfield but which may not fit in the back anyway. So the JL Audio TR570-CXi may be the route. thoughts on their speakers by anyone?

todd claims they must be facing down.. so far he has been spot on with stuff.. so I have no reason to doubt it. plus, when you put in the bulb and turn, if faces down perfect. like it IS suppose to be that way.

I got the answer from Ford... From what they say, the Sync starts up and then takes 30 seconds to search for devices and in that time reindex the iPod looking for it and any new songs you added/removed/etc. - at the same time the iPod is booting up and they say it takes longer to boot and talk to the Sync system and prepare and during that time, Sync moves on to the next in line since the iPod did not talk to it in time and that next item in line is "Line In".

now that I am opening this whole can of worms about improving my sound.. I would consider it IF you can just plug and play and swap out the old one for a new one. That I would consider. Don't care enough to mont one under the seats, rewire and such. But, if I could pull out the factory mounted in the back and swap in a more better one. I would consider it. that being said, anyone know if that is even possible?

anyone know the spec's on the 9 speaker, Audiophile system in the Limited? can't find much in my searching... power, watts, size of subwoofer, blah blah... anything? UPDATE: CD changer with 9 speakers in 5 locations: 4 two-way speakers are mounted in the doors, and an 8" subwoofer and 190-watt amplifier are mounted in the back to round out your sonic experience

on this note... we did not have it officially on the Ford website here in SoCal.. yet I got it. I just told them I would be doing CC and showed up with my title and they did it - I did not ask, just acted like I knew I could do it. it worked. try it, 1500 would then swing it.

at the start of this thread (maybe page 2) I talk about lining the colors up on those pigtails to match the factory harness.. Todd says it really should not matter, but I went ahead and figured out color to color match and it mentions it earlier on.

dude, I do not even know what "highs and mids" are to be honest. for me... I like it very crisp and very clear and tend to crank up the treble more than bass - bass is of so so interest to me. it feels like our stock speakers and muted and dull and very little life versus the crisp clear I like and with the treble all the way up, it is still rather muted to me - like I am listening behind a closed door.

I cannot say yet if they can only go in 1 way.. I think they can flip flop 180 degrees so they could maybe be in upside down. from what I understand, the ceramic covered wire in the bulb is white and obvious.. I will report back after I have my Cheerios and go out and adjust mine UPDATE: yeah, mine face down as they should.

no, he's not saying that... he is saying that IF an HID solution would have been used OEM from the factory on the Edge, we would not be using an H11 bulb and we would be using a much costlier bulb (i.e., D2R) as OEM would not even use the H11 system we are putting in after-market.

yep, I pretty much said the same back in post #63, but I still wanted to make sure everything was done correct and that could be done to minimize the effect knowing we have stock projectors... but yeah, I can live with it. the good thing is, at least for me, it tipped me off that the plastic piece was suppose to have been removed..

wait... so even after doing this you have that jagged edge still? well, here are other things he requested I check, you might as well: 1) Which direction does the ceramic covered wire next to the bulb face? In some H11 apps it can face up or down, but down is the correct orientation. 2) See if it is an additive effect of the two beam patterns on top of each other. Cover up one side at a time to see what one projected beam looks like. 3) Look at the glass lens of the projector. (lights off) and see if it has concentric rings embedded in it. These are fresnel optics and will purposely distort the beam pattern at about 50-75 ft. or even farther depending on your aimed height. 4) also, make sure you seated the gasket on the bulb before install, they are purposely not seated correctly to fit securely in the bulb protectors. 5) remove that opaque plastic ring (I added this one to the list based on what I just learned and kind of related to #4)