Lex Talionis

1 - did you have them turned to the 'ON' position with the knob on the dash? (turn the knob all the way up, and then up until it clicks and they are permanently on then) 2 - could you not close up the doors, pop the hatch, lock the car while in it (people inside can still get out so no worries) and have the hatch still open and the lights should go off then when you lock it with the key FOB

holly that has to be a joke, no? yep.. right out of the gate you got me beat. didn't think it would be possible.. That is unbelievably lame

thank God for 18" Premium Painted 'real' wheels

to clarify quickly.. you want DIGITAL HID lights.. the ones from Retro Solutions are great and work for me and others and he runs a special here for us on this forum, you can search to find his link and pricing offer. but an H11 kit like this reported spam link35WKIT.html (or the 55w if you desire - you can research why you would want 35w or 55w as opinions vary). As one of the first here to install a digital kit from Retro Solutions, I selected 35w in 5000k. my posts confirm how much I love them and easy they are to install. next, 'projectors' are not the HID lights. what you linked to is NOT what you want nor can you use it. the blinding 'blur' is mostly determined by what color temp you want - I will not go into that here, it is debated elsewhere - and if you adjust your headlights and cut off - also talked about here. but the general consensus on the web and here is 6000k is about as high a color temp as you want to go to play nice. so 4300-6000k range. again, this topic, and your questions, are covered in depth in a several key HID threads, so read those through to help decide on your color temp, watts (35 or 55), digital (or not), where to buy, how to install, blah blah as every question has already been asked and answered pretty in depth in those existing threads.

yep, read about sticking the bumpers to the hood (I wonder how hard they would be to get off hood) versus the actual shield. Makes total sense to me. Also, if I ever drilled into exposed once painted metal, I personally would paint the holes with primer, let dry AND use a silicon to keep out any possible water and make water tight.

couldn't help it.. saw this on eBay and it is ultra cheezy stick on "fender vents" beat it if you can.. but it is gonna be hard

after seeing a few installed... I might change my opinion about these can anyone here post a few pictures of the Ford model only: -the view from the drivers perspective. what do you see when looking down at the bug shield? is it a nice finished edge facing you from your view? -does anyone have photos of one mounted on a 2008 White San Tri Coat? -anyone with one long term now have any issues creep up with these thngs worth noting? (e.g.,, bumpers fall off, hard to clean under, looks bas all nicked up, etc)

huh?

this thread will get you on your way for HID. if you use the Search function, you will get a LOT of HID topics that cover it all.

nice... first one I can recall seeing with the actual factory roof rails.. always wondered what hey looked like

see this it will convince you to get a stubby

hmm.. before this 7P even came up this week, which means the 6P was the newest (heck, still is until 7P actually hits shelves technically)... which is up until right now with this new release.. I saw, and can still see, 6P on eBay for average $65-70 in past sales. Some for sale right now. That is less than half the price of the 6P, which is what they were selling as 'newest' until just now. When I first considered getting my Edge, and not knowing if I would get the newest 6P, I was watching eBay all the time for them just in case I had to buy. point is, 6P is still pretty new and not out of date really and buyable much cheaper on eBay. Yeah, 7P may be a little higher in price and slower to get onto ebay (maybe), but it will come I bet and be cheaper and not out of date when it does.

hey man.. can't get mad at a guy that can work an angle.. I bought mine off eBay and that was nearly half the price of retail at like Crutchfields.. so more power to you if you can work a deal. The real score would be to start to get them at 36.51 and sell them here for like $70 the locals get a better deal than retail and you make some coin.. win win for everyone heck.. for $25 I would get that sub and if it is a no go.. sell it and still cover the cost. Yeah, I didn't think there was much difference in spec. As for the speakers making a difference.. If it was not clear in my previous posts it made a HUGE difference. great money spent and totally different sound. like a totally different system. you'll see. not sure on the Factory as they are boxed up pt away.

clip breakage is NOT an issue. at least not that I ever encountered or concerned myself with. it is not like that in this car. as I said earlier... this is as easy of a door panel to remove as any I have ever done. there are a few guys that posted up here about sub replacement.. have to search to find them. 1 guy made a custom enclosure I recall. what is the diff between the kappa 682.9cf and 682.7cf - I couldn't really tell looking at Crutchfield? Look a little different, cross-overs look different.. but specs seem to be the same?

damn... and I just took delivery of my Edge.. 6P already out of date.. though I have not used a single POI yet, there are some road/map additions that I could use... FWIW, they will be cheaper on eBay for sure 6P This DVD map update contains coverage across the continental United States and Canada as well as Alaska and Hawaii. It contains over 6.06 million miles of road and features more than 1.57 million updated points-of-interest including over: 449,700 restaurants 68,700 hotels 103,800 banks 108,000 ATMs 90,800 gas stations 245,600 auto service & maintenance locations 14,900 tourist attraction 7P This DVD map update contains coverage across the continental United States and Canada as well as Alaska and Hawaii. It contains over 6.16 million miles of road and features more than 1.74 million updated points-of-interest including over: 477,800 restaurants 71,200 hotels 103,800 banks 122,600 ATMs 101,200 gas stations 245,600 auto service & maintenance locations 14,900 tourist attractions This new DVD map update also contains new and expanded detailed coverage in the following cities, counties, metropolitan and rural areas: Barstow, CA Placerville, CA Roseville, CA San Bernardino, CA San Diego, CA Sutter County, CA Yuba County, CA Clay County, FL Clear Creek County, CO Grand Junction, CO Pueblo, CO Gilpin, CO Lake County, FL Hernando County, FL Highlands County, FL Adams, IL Bloomington, IL Champaign County, IL Coles, IL Kankakee, IL Peoria, IL Shawnee County, KS Cambridge, MD Cumberland, MD Denton, MD Easton, MD Salisbury, MD Calhoun, MI Jackson County, MI Midland County, MI Saginaw, MI Fayetteville, NC Onslow County, NC Cayuga, NY Lake Placid, NY Malone, NY Plattsburgh, NY Stark County, OH Trumbull County, OH Youngstown, OH Jackson County, OR Lycoming, PA Monroe County, PA Pittsburgh, PA Brazoria, TX Gregg County, TX Houston, TX Lubbock County, TX Walker, TX Northhampton, VA Powhatan, VA Yakima, WA Muskoka, ON Laurentians, QC UPDATE: they revamped their listing of what cities were changed so I updated it here. For example, San Diego County was NOT listed originally, now it is.

then do after market for sure. after market hangs below the bumper, so no cut as has been pointed out, plus they since they are black they just kind of blend in better that way below the black bumper. that makes an easier install as well. I, as well as others, have photos up showing our hitches installed.

amazing... wow. it is not by luck you are alive.. 1 funny thing is you think like I would.. "what can I salvage"

from people I have talked to about this issue and similar paint matching issues is that it seems to be more noticeable on a multi stage paint job like that White Sand Tri Coat.. for which I paid extra for go figure.. as opposed to less depth and 'flatter' paint jobs like a black, or red, or putty I also concur that in certain light and angles it can be obvious while at others, you would never see it

well.. I have never heard of anyone on this board installing the 'factory' hitch - and I have read most all of and participated in most of the hitch threads as I needed to do this when I got my car. if they want a hitch after the fact, all that I have seen here that posted up went with after-market hitches like myself. Best thread on it here that covers which hitches, part #, cost, wiring kits, etc. IF Ford claims no drilling, it would be only because they opt to use the 4 available holes already there in frame rail. You could do the same with another hitch mentioned above if you did not want to drill - which would depend on what you want to haul and blah blah (disclaimer here)... so if you want 6 bolts, you will have to drill. if you want to just carry bikes and stuff on a hitch rack, maybe 6 is over-kill. But, I opted to use them all, but drilling is no biggie if you have a good bit. Either way, there are 4 open holes and if they say no drilling they must only give you 4 bolts were it seems the after-markets give you 6 bolts. Heck, maybe 6, if factory Ford gives you 4, is actually over-kill. also, IIRC, after-market Class II hitches were mo cheaper and the after market wiring kits were as well. So, another reason to not use 'factory' as the after-market quality is just as good quality by name bands.

I absolutely think there can be a difference. And on my White Sand Tri Coat it is noticeable as well if you are paying attention. On my car, and many I have seen on the lot and in person, especailly in this color, there is a slight difference. I always believed it was due to paint on metal body versus paint on plastic molding. Seems like the only explanation. OR, the only real other explanation is that the body is painted separate and then they pull pre painted bumpers from the rack and slap them on and there is a minor variation in the paint mixture, enough so that the match is not 100% perfect. I think it very slight, but it is there and I noticed it from day 1.

in the cars/trucks I have worked on with electrical needs - none as new as a 2008 - I have seen under the dash and on firewall or fender well in engine bay for relays. but for flasher relays.. only ever seen them up under the dash. good tip on the colored wire

yeah... if you get factory tow package you are good to go. nothing to wire. its part of the package.

your understanding of that detail wasn't clear on your first post, but is now. so, as I said and I guess more useful to you, for me personally, the quality sounds 'just as good as FM' to me (as compared to say FM when I am exposed to it by those not having satellite). That is, I personally have never listened to my satellite and said... "wow, this sounds different" in terms of quality. I have said many things, sound quality was never one I zoned in on and noticed enough to comment on it. so that tells me, it is not an issue to my ear.

In a simple nutshell explanation, what you are experiencing is the compression that has been reported that they put on 'some' (yes, not all) of the digital signals/channels to save bandwidth. Some people report hearing it, some do not. I have also read that it is something they are experimenting with regularly so channels that have this noticeably vary at times as they try to tweak and tune the signals for best compression/codecs given all the data they are trying to send. Just for fun.. try listening on the internets via the available web interface to subscribers and then listen via your radio and see if you can tell a difference on the same channel as one is piped totally different than the other. For me, it has been SO long since i have suffered through terrestrial radio (literally 3 years now), Sirius sounds totally normal to my ear. oh.. and by the way.. it has never been, for me, which "sounds as good or better than regular FM" - it has totally been about (1) the content content content and (2) commercial free (depending on if listening to music or talk channel) and (3) number of choices to listen to - I can take a hit in sound quality for vastly improved content and interesting new choices.

no.. you can buy the Gentex camera/rearview mirror right off the web from several places - part # GENK242 - and DIY. The Sync is what complicates it. If I did not have Sync, I would have done the mirror swap already as it would not be hard at all to do the camera add/mirror change. I only wanted Ford to do it incase the skrewed up the Sync microphone removal and placement, I could have then had them fix it for free.