Lex Talionis

oh.. and BTW... you can't make a new route while driving for 'legal' reasons.. but you can now check sports scores mind you, find movies in your area, view gas prices, see local traffic snarls.... all while you drive?!?! oh lord... somehow the huge legal brains decided we can safely manage all of that in their eyes

Damn I want that.. for 1 reason only.. the weather info. That has been one of the items I listed as an upgrade I wanted to see added... and there it is.. very cool. I knew they could do it, just not sure how they would be delivering the data to the car, but delivering it via the Sirius stream (a.k.a. Sirius Travel Link) coming to your car (like their TV channels) was the way to get it done. bitchen. So for those of us with the Sync, Nav, Sirius system - which is what they have here in the video - I pray that we can upgrade to this. It seems like it would be very easy to update our existing navs to this system as all the real key changes look to be software so either an update (I would even pay for this) and/or a new DVD should get it done. The system interface looks basically the same, just software retooled to have a neater more modern layout/colors, they moved some onscreen buttons around and added some others. The big issue would be we do not have the "I" button to take us to the Sirius Travel Link feature... so not sure how that get worked around as that is the 1 hardware difference I can 'see' I read this elsewhere, "Committed to continually improving in-car connectivity, Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicle owners that have either factory- or dealer-installed SYNC will be able to upgrade the system’s software and access future features and functions.".. I hope they mean this in system as well as already announced 911 and Health feature coming in the Fall.

use the Search function and you will find several topics on "Yakima" already... here is just one good one

ask them to just swap the pump under warranty if they would. if it fixes it.. everyone wins. if it does not.. then they made an effort and move on to the next avenue as I would suspect 2 'faulty' pumps - manufactured and installed at 2 much different dates and locations - would be bad if in fact it is a bad pump. odds are on your side a swap would address it. seems I also read that there are Ford service techs acknowledging the issue. so it seems it does exist even if theirs do not see/hear/claim it. Please, plenty of times I have proven the dealer wrong just be educating myself to this 1 specific car whereas they have to try to know 50 different cars. Even had a Ford dealer stand in front of me and tell me 1 thing, only to have another 2 walk up and contradict it. so yes, they can be wrong (but then again, so can we).

if you notice it to this level, I would tend to agree it is an issue and have it dealt with by the dealer. we don't 'normally' make up sounds in or head and your brain is good at telling to what is normal and not normal. I would listen to it - your brain that is - and have the dealer deal with it... and so, in your case you could (1) just go to a different dealer - your best bet or (2) keep taking it back until they get the point - maybe have them come with you in your car and then go drive one off the lot and hope you can demonstrate to them the difference

look no further.. you can see them in my Gallery (click below)... Premium Painted 18" wheels. they are the BOMB (for what choices we have)

in researching a different topic in the 2008 manual, pp 138-139, it has some steps (7) to deactivate the perimeter illuminated entry.. that could be handy as well with this issue.

welcome.. I think the best and most complete thread on hitches (which brand, where to buy, price, install, etc) is here good luck and enjoy as there is much to learn here.. and MANY mods you can make

just write it in yourself with a marker

well FWIW.. you guys with drop outs might be on to something, because over here and over here are 2 threads at the unofficial Sirius forums that talk about this very topic, and they are popular thread looking at the size. talk about when it started, theories, some have had it stop, some still have issues.. interesting

I can only offer you some insight into speaker change out here - maybe it will help ya, but it seems you may play at higher level than I, but it should still give you some useful data on speakers and the doors.. good luck.

for life! say what? I would say either (1) you over paid, they knew it, and this made them feel fine with it and you feel like you scored or (2) the dealer was smokin crack and needed to make a sale bad never heard anyone here getting a 'for life' deal...

roger roger, what's your vector victor

also to note.. it you can only turn 'off' the AdvanceTrac RSC system (by pushing the button 'on') when 45mph or below, above 45 mph and it remains active no matter what.

Nice... another 2008 Limited White Sand hits the road... good choice

I would agree that that section in the manual (pp 239-242 in 2008) is best read, then reread to understand what the hell is what with the ESC and RSC and when you might turn it 'off' - uhhhh by pushing a button that appears to come 'on' - lights up

In roughly 2000 miles (5.22.08): -User Device defaults back to "Line In" rather than the previously used "USB" (sometimes randomly works most times not at all, listed as issue for others elsewhere on web) - not corrected but pray it will be in an update -No paint around .5" lip of drivers side hood edge - corrected -paint job in general questionable at best - not corrected and never will be, just living with it -annoying creek (velcro it seems) in 2nd row passenger side ceiling - not corrected yet, will at first service -seat memory button for passenger failed - not corrected yet, will at first service -rolls back a bit excessive on hills - not corrected yet, will have them look into TSB for this issue at next service

I have always found this ability kind of odd.. I had the same button in my VW and in 7 years of ownership (with many trips to colorado and the local mountains to ski) I pressed it exactly..... 0 times I expect to use that same button on my Edge exactly.... 0 times

better look no doubt... same reception? you tell us. I suspect you would be just fine. post a photo what you install. You know.. the more and more I look around at antennas I notice more and more newer models with a stubby or shark setup (Acura, Mercedes, BMW, even some VW) and wonder... if a stubby antenna really limits reception to a noticeable degree, how are they getting away with them as stock now? I can only come up with 3 reasons: (1) because a stubby works just fine and a 12" antenna is just plain overkill or (2) they have some kind of factory signal booster in place or (3) they have some sort of system where a wire portion of the antenna is also in the roof and the stubby antenna we see is just an extension of what is in the roof doing most of the work. I find #3 harder to believe and #1,2 more likely.

yeah.. but that makes total sense and everyone gets those for the most part. I get those as well at those times (get stuck under a bridge will trying to get on the freeway for example). But what I do NOT have - ever - is it just cutting off randomly. And like I have said, I listen 8-9 hours a day (at computer and in car - and now have had it in 2 cars now, plus my chick has it in hers) and it is not an issue in the car (you would expect it not an issue on the computer of course). So now sure if the people that complain of these random cutouts are not giving the full information on the situation which might shed light on why. For example, the environment you drive in: are some of these people in downtown cities with buildings and bridges? deep mountain passes? I live and drive in pretty open suburban environment and report no random cutoffs.

(add disclaimers, risks and caveats here about what damage you could do or warranties you could void by doing a trick mod like this) As promised.. I built and put a switch inline that allows me to switch off all internal lights with 1 push. I removed the 15a fuse #9, took the 15a fuse and modified and cut open the fuse (no need for the fuse function as I need the circuit to NOT be complete at that fuse, but up stream at the inline fuse, I just needed it as a means to make a connection into the fuse box) and soldered onto it the 2 wires so the fuse box connection is more clean and precise then jamming 2 wires into the open fuse holes, put an inline 15a fuse (exactly what is removed, this way, still have a fuse in case and it completes the circuit), attached a nice black 20a rated rocker switch which blends in perfect. Here are photos. Enjoy Here is the entire mechanism. Switch, wires, modified fuse to plug into the fuse box. Maybe ugly, but like everything under the dash, it works. Here is the switch just in the area I 'think" I will be mounting it down by the fuse box/feet area. I have not 100% decided if I will mount it there or not. This was proof of concept, and it worked just as I expected it would. So, I will, when I decide just where I want it (I have not decided if I want it obviously seen like up near the dash dimmer roll switch or hidden and kind of out of the way known only to me) I will drill the .75" hole needed and install it with the nice included trim piece that will make it look like a factory all black matching rocker button. UPDATE: I ended up flush mounting the switch down below the fuse box panel. Cannot even see it unless you go looking for it. I decided I did not want people accidentally pushing it and it makes it known only to me to activate and initiate the light cut off. Next, I will likely do a puddle lamp switch as well and mount right next to it as if you leave the doors open or trunk open, the puddle lamps stay on at night so as wickedstangs said, fuse #10 also needs addressing to make this a complete system.

EDIT: belay that request... I took a different approach that worked perfect.

please read this thread from the start... it already contains the price and number to call to order