Lex Talionis

NICE.. well done.. good to see someone do a very complete post on a tricky install like this (wiring is tricky for most people).. this will beomce the thread to read and review on this topic.

someone over there is smokin crack. "did not think it was too bad of a problem" - those bulb connections are 1 step away from being charred. who cares about the color of the bulb.. the connector is not 'somewhat' melted, the thing IS melted to the point of sagging in the top photos. that looks to me like 1 step away from a bad car fire. this is not about blowing bulbs... that becomes just a side note once you see those connectors. at least you have it on record at the dealer.

1 word..... SCARY 3 words.. VIST DEALER.. ASAP

try XOvision.. start with GX6103 very affordable.

photos would be GREAT as you are only one of a few who have posted up about doing the harness wiring yourself & took photos. it would help to have that here as a reference for sure. I know I would review it for future reference. BTW, yes, all of the kits must run a power wire is that is how the computer brain "box" that runs the system, which works in tandem with and protects the Edge's electronics, gets power.

I have noticed this many, many times.. especially when washing the car. open the door and splash... I have determined that the water is being held by the lower plastic black molding where it meets the metal of the door. there is a gap there between the molding and the door and it sits right in there. seems like a flaw to me, albeit minor, as I have never owned a car where this happens.

helloooo... you asked the same question 2 times but I already answered it in post 75, plus in post 54 he says he did not use an LED flasher (which cant be used anyway) or inline resistor as he did not care about the hyper flashing all the answers to you question are already here

in post #68 jpark confirms they do not use flashers as we once knew them to be, it is now part of the electronics built into the SJB. so, inline (LOAD RESISTOR KITS) seems the only was to address the speedy flasher :shades:

yeah.. if you want to remove inner door panels it is a piece of cake. as easy as they come. IIRC like 6 philips screws around perimeter, 1 bolt (in door handle under rubber cover), 1 star nut (under little plastic circle flap behind inner door handle). pull out at bottom, up (since a lip at top near window and need to get panel over the door lock), unhook 1-2 quick release wire harness plugs, and then away.

well I stand corrected... looks like a PIN might be in the works for you here from redwing2? this could be the start of a new thing here.

no... no video on your nav screen.. this is an audio system only... you will only play songs.. check syncmyride.com for tons of useful info on just the media system (sync, music players and phone) plus you will get pretty good manual. for now, just take your drive and plug and play and enjoy the drive home

if you can power it by the USB port (i.e., does not have an external power supply required to run it) you should be able to plug it in and go. lots of people use just simple USB thumb drives for example.

yep... there will be holes.. and not sure, but rather unlikely, that the now existing holes for the AVS will line up with the holes for the Ford one you want to install. The holes are/will be up under the lip of the hood edge. I would not worry about it to much. BUT, best thing would be to make sure the old holes (and new for that matter) are primed and - if possible - painted with something like color matching touch up paint. At least primed over at a minimum. You could even seal them with silicon to keep moisture out. Once they drill the hood holes, that will expose raw metal that was painted and opens a hole into an area that if water gets into and sits, just breads trouble. So, best practice would be to drill, prime, paint, seal with like silicon before bolt on. In your case, ask them to do that or just verify it has been done as I doubt the install shop will prime the holes over to keep from having raw exposed metal hole edges - they will likely just drill and mount. it is the long term issue of moisture and exposed metal you want to consider when drilling into the the body. probably nothing will happen over time, but depending on where you live and climate, it could turn into a bad deal over years and years. if you decide you do not like it.. no worries as you could, as I said before, just be sure the holes are primed, painted and sealed (with silicon or rubber plugs from like Home Depot or auto parts store) if you decide to remove the deflector.

I personally don't care for the look of the WeatherTech or AVS because if you look at them, they over hang at the edges, rounded over hangs even worse, and that just looks cheap to me. I like the fact that the Ford one stops at the hoods edge, has a straight edge and thus blends with the hood panels edge line. BTW.. would still love to see someone with a Ford brand bug deflector mounted on their white sand tri coat

yeah, it seems the last few days they have been down/upgrading.. they should be back. I, and many others here, got their PIN there. Never seen anyone handing them out here. I know it sucks, but be patient as that PIN is worth waiting for.

Your best bet for getting that will be here http://www.blueovalforums.com/ under the pin request thread.

server just looks to be down. maybe migrating servers, upgrading or it just crashed.. it will be back I am sure. no worries.

that is dealer code for.. "it only took us 1 hour, but we got this guy thinking it took 4.5 hours and he really scored - now he feels good and indebted to us for hooking him up" if you use the search function, you will find many threads on hitches.. but this is by far the best click here

so hoamdezinahs.. does something like this get you closer to a truer "cold air" intake system as they claim since it is trying to protect the intake from warmer engine air (i.e., the surrounding cover), but not closer to a true "ram cold air intake system" since it is not forcing outside air directly into the air intake?

hey.. good details but sorry, a little confused.... you loaded up and tested 92, 91 and 87 (as you mention all 3)? In the end, and for testing numbers provided here, you opted to leave in the 91 as your new setting of choice? On your "minor mods" (pretty important here - I really wish you would have done NO mods so we could better compare a straight stock versus stock + a tune) - but can you give more detail about your mods as it is pretty vague.. that is, you changed your exhaust system?, what did you do to your headers?, what did you do to the air intake? wires and spark plugs are obvious... how did you come to conclude 10-25 hp range (big range mind you) over a stock system, not having a stock system due to your mods? just guessing?

see.. easy.. already using emoticons as well :happy feet: .. now, try to add a photo.. like one of your new car

should have come here first would have learned all about those errrrrr "rims"

what about this one here offered by Green? seems like the first actual retail sold kit?

your gonna drop that little bomb and not post up some photos and details?

though I do not have roof rails, going just on what I have seen in the past and had on past cars, and IIRC looking on the lot at one time, you will unbolt them and there will just be the threaded holes/nut in the roof and you can put on a cap/plug from the dealer. I would be shocked if it was not that simple. if it is not, that implies they have to build different roof systems for those that have roof rails and those that do not. (not to mention yet another roof for the BAMR). I suspect you can buy any non-BAMR Edge without rails and go buy the roof rails and pop up some plugs/covers and bolt them on yourself, so the opposite should be true. They would want to make this stuff plug and play so it makes total sense to have 1 roof for BAMR and roof for non-BAMR and that roof can have rails or not. I wonder why the dealer can't answer this question for you? they don't know if they can get you the car, remove the rails, put in the caps, deduct the rails from the price, and sell you the car you want? that is odd.