Lex Talionis

I'll see you there.. leaving next week for 2 weeks to train/race up in the mountains. racing the Mount Evans hill climb ascent :happy feet:

ahh yes, I see what you meant. you in fact could have had DVD in the headrest from the factory in an '08 (Option 90C in Comfort/Convenience options) UNLESS you got the Vista. I remember that was an odd option selector. So of course, for me that is, the Vista roof was the only way to go. But I see you elected to have the DVD and not the Vista. But now that that is a done deal, why ask about the Vista? It is not like you can now add that, so I am confused as to where this is going are you insinuting your looking to get a new Edge with the BAMR and want to know if it is worth it - from heat perspective - now that you can get DVD players all day long? I would say heck yeah, but I never would have made that decision in the first place

given you can flip on the AC, put in a windshield solar block and close the vista roof shade, I would never let this issue even come close to deciding if I got the BAMR roof. The BAMR is so awesome, any heat issues are short term versus the long term benefits of that roof. sure, it is not an insulated.. but what, maybe a few degrees diff between the BAMR and a normal roof? is that worth not having that killer roof? heck no. BTW, I have had mine in hot heat of CA, AZ, UT, CO - sure, its hot but again.. whatever, I take other steps. "Now with the DVD being installed in the headrests I have options" - what do you mean "now"? you could have had that from day 1 in your '08??

wait for others to chime in, but in earlier models, like 07-08 that did not come with them, wiring was not in place. so, those that bought them after the fact had to wire them up themselves. My guess and "assumption" would be the same for a 2010, but not 100% sure.

could get a tuner and buy some "tunes" and upload them yourself into the puter and tweak more than just the hesitation. I have noticed it as well FWIW.

is it odd, or normal, to run just a front pair with no rear pair? so if you bought these, would you still need to then buy a set for the rear? did you install the ones you do have yourself? if so, any other changes you must make to accommodate these? what difference do you actually feel, notice?

I had similar. Found it in opening week, they replaced my ENTIRE hood. It was a spot, drivers side tip/edge just under the lip with 0 paint. So, I got mine early. BUT, search these forums as there are MANY topics about people, including myself, finding thin spots of little to no primer or paint or only primer with no paint, etc. Maybe print some of these out and go back and show it is a pretty known issue that, as much as many of us love these rigs, they have some of the weakest paint jobs I have ever seen and many areas are susceptible to this as they never got paint and primer for example. or primer and no paint so maybe no clear coat. I have also had clear coat in my fender wells redone by the dealing as it chipped off.

if you use the search and search under those terms, you will find several threads - pictures, reviews, install issues - on the Ford one and the WeatherTech model. You might try reading or posting in those for owners of the device.

well.. whats worse, some free services or a nag screen? :shades: there is a whole thread on this, use the search, as some never got deactivated and some did. if you get fully deactvicted, you will get a screen that tells you to call them and activate. mine went pretty near after the 6 months.

10-4

it was off "a couple of inches".. wow, that is significant

pretty easy once you do it 1 time. just pull 1 edge, IIRC the rear most edge, down and it will pop away. NO clips to depress, just hand strength. I recall it was kind of hard, then once I did it a few times - LED bulbs - it got easier

heck yeah.. when I bought mine I got X-plan + the cash back offer at the time + a presidents sale cash back I scored

just installed the plug-n-play Curt T-Connector wiring kit #56067 I got off eBay for $44 shipped. It was not hard, just a pain here and there. Took maybe 1.5 hours. I bypassed some of the directions - like I did not come up from the bottom with the wiring harness to the rear plugs. Instead, I went from the trunk, down near the spare, and put the computer module in there and ran the wiring (power wire and hitch light pigtail) down through the rubber gasket. so, my module is IN my car as opposed to their outside car and stock with tape someplace. all in all, nice clean install and all hidden. running the long power wire was the pain, I just ended up running it outside along some brake, fuel, frame lines. taping along the way. no biggie, just on the back under the car and I am thin and it is a tight fit.

if that does not help, reference your manual for the fuse to pull for the Sync/Navi system and pull it to reset it. but I would look at volume first. there are 2 volumes really. volume for stereo/radio and volume for navi/sync. pressing the volume toggle on your steering wheel - if you have that - at just the right time can lower the navi voice while keeping the stereo/music volume untouched.

search the forums, there is a great thread about Yakima towers on an Edge with Vista roof. parts #'s, photos, etc. the OP carries bikes so carrying a cargo carrier should be no issue.

USB, no drivers needed on the drive itself. that is just 1 beauty of a USB drive. often, these thumb drives come with preloaded junk like apps or backup software or files if formatted as windows drive.

are you sure the system did not set the default "User Device" back to BTST and away from USB. this is common.

just take a small screw driver, or your finer tip, and push the little tab and that will allow you to pull it down. really rather easy, it is just the little tab that can be hard to actuate. I use a very small driver to get leverage. it is a dealer only bulb and in fact, there is no bulb to change per se, as it is an entire encased unit of bulb and housing. about $50 a pop! a total rip off from dealer. several of us here have cut the closed unit open - separate the lens from the body to get access to the tiny bulb - with a dremel tool and replaced the bulbs with LEDs.. search for those topics here as they have been covered.

look into a Boyo or XO vision license plate camera. you can get them with night vision and great CCD cams and you can angle them as you want. just bolts on into existing 4 holes. a license plate cam will be the easiest to install and place. the only real fear is that is "could" be stolen if someone notices it. BUT, that can be countered with a few hex head security license plate screws you can buy at an automotive store. I was going to do an XO Vision plate cam, I ended up selling it here, as I did that cam you see in my post. But I admit, the license plate cam would have been way easier BUT I have a killer bike chain license plate bracket - I am an avid cyclist - so I wanted that so could not do a license plate cam.

use the search function.. tons of threads/topics that cover these exact issues and questions already - what unit to buy, install info, how to keep sync and ipod, etc, etc,

you might also consider a license plate camera like those by Boyo or XO Vision.. easy to install those and no cutting your bumper as you already have a license plate bracket in place. that would be a simple an install as you could get. I sold an XO vision here to another user a while back who really liked it. OR er65nsunny recently posted that he took the newer model Ford emblem/camera and retrofitted it onto his Edge. likely a pretty pricey piece, but is an option. I would forgo the entire wireless route - given it only saves 1 wire and those wireless signal senders are more costly than just running the wire. also, I have read about interference issues and just lack of quality issues for signal with wireless.

early on, when the new in Ford emblem camera was announced, I was one of the first to theorize that you would be able to retro fit the new emblem/camera onto older models.. even made a thread about it. but, I was to impatient to wait around for them to start to sell them as parts. seems I was right BUT I never saw you do a write up here on it. did you use the same box I used to convert the signal to be used on your navi head unit? how much was the emblem camera? any pictures of the install?

IMHO it's fugly - unless you want to recreate the zapruder films

here you go I know you have a 2010 and mine is 2008, but the principles and hook up are pretty much the same. On yours, I think you have a camera hook-up, so the box is not needed. But the camera, routing, wiring, etc are all valuable info.