Lex Talionis

yes, yes.. I understood that of course... but was hoping he would elaborate as I figured, this day and age, they are all standard length/width nozzles so how could it NOT be long enough? So, I was just pointing out since they are all universal, and if you look at the gas cap which is only about 1.5 to 2" in height so you would only need a nozzle to be that long, and where do you find one that is not??? then you must be at the end of the hose length and so the nozzle is not able to go in far enough.. as every nozzle should go in just fine no matter where you are, even if in the middle of no where back water small town.

how could it not.. unless you parked like 8 feet away (or on the wrong side of your gas door) and have to try to stretch the hose waaaaaay over to your gas cap

ha ha you made me laugh.... a rare funny comment from akirby shows there infact is a sense of humor buried in there :tease: actually, given the rear view camera and backup sensors, I have no interest in this one.. but I would love to see the outside mirrors fold in when you park, that is a great option and with tighter and tighter parking spots & shrinking garage space, kind of a no brainer...

hey, thanks for the tip... I am going to look into this device (#41004 is their part number for the Edge) and maybe give it a try. love the idea. no probs for you? no check engine light issues with their seal not sealing? just wanted some real world comments. I just read this funny claim elsewhere: According to Sun Oil research, a missing or defective fuel cap can allow as much as 176 pounds of gasoline vapors (22 gallons) to evaporate into the atmosphere each year. At $3 per gallon, that adds up to over $65 per year. Have you had your gas cap checked recently?

I love the concept.. would consider an after market install of this if it was truly a Ford product that met their specs to gain the benefits this actual "easy fuel system" touts BUT I wonder if an after market setup could actually seal snug enough to keep the check engine light from coming on (plus all the other neat design benefits they built into it)... we know we need to close our gas caps making sure you get the clicks, and if not, you can get check engine light due to lack of pressure.. so I wonder how an after-market, as compared to a true Ford factory install with maybe other changes in the fuel system not noted, would work. Tom.. where have you seen this system available for sale?

sorry my man... your now speaking gibberish to me. I go by what sounds right and good to me, but that level of knowledge is way beyond me

I did not look.. I just assumed, since it was still there, it was active and would have hope KMAN would have investigated as needed. yep, ViperPilot was the guy to get it done I do recall. oh well.. I tried

mine took 6 weeks. now, as has been said, there are down weeks for plants, and current car company troubles and fiascos may effect it also given cut backs, closures, etc. have you been to Blue Oval forums and see if you can get it tracked once you get a VIN from your dealer - yes, they can get the VIN and get some basic tracking data, but Blue Oval is the bomb for this data and I had mine tracked there once I ordered.

I had a bad pop in the drivers side when window it was rolling up right at the apex.. turned out to be a bad motor/arm which was replaced

well, I will assume the 6 cd is just like the nav unit in terms of first stages of removal so, that giant center console (entire piece with the little pocket/holder on the dash down to the cubby hole area) can pop right out in 3 seconds with just easy hand pressure. I just put both hands flat on the top of that center console piece up on the dash and use firm pressure and pull slight down and right towards you and it will pop free.. cake. I have done it literally dozens of times. no tools, no prying, simple hand pressure. from there, removal will be easy as pie to see... a series of nuts, slide out cd unit from the frame, disconnect wires from back.. viola. 15 minute job at best.

yeah, but how does that get us to where we want to go and bypass that whole stop when closing function

nice write up. as for the puddle lamp change, it is not as daunting as it may seem. biggest issues are (1) making a clean cut to separate the body from the lens - that is not so hard if you go slow and (2) getting the right sized LED bulbs. I found that #2 was the bigger issue as the 6 LED bulbs I got were perfect width BUT because it is more of a square LED it was a very tough fit given the lack of depth of the body/housing. anyway.. it is a pretty easy mod, i would say maybe even less effort than this one and well worth it. there is NO way you can do all of this and not do puddles.. no way there are 2 threads on puddle lamp LED bulbs. my original thread and 1 newer one from that. I ended up, once the other guy confirmed the lens was removable from the body without destruction of a $60 unit, I changed mine to the latter method from my original home grown idea. both work and work awesome.

at this stage.. never heard or seen such a way. yes, there is a USB port, 2 actually, but not seen a way to interface with the OS system and make a change like that.

you know what would be great, a wiring mod to bypass that whole comfort position stop when you go to close the roof. That way, 1 touch just closes the BAMR, no need to push to close, then hold it to close last 6-8", which is hella annoying. Not sure if, like we did with the wiring mod to activate the LED lights in the BAMR control, you can even do it with some sort of wiring mod or if it is hard coded into the BAMR brain circuit board or car system somewhere and not modifiable.

if your idea does not work.. maybe try a small, thin sewing needle and make a tiny hole and bleed off the air?

bump.. been some time since I posted this up, and much has been done with LEDs and interior lights, like this mod, and lots of new members since then so wonder if anyone has a source idea for something like this. Getting the LED ring is the big trick. This is a mod I would like to do rather than stabbing in the dark & just because I want to. any thoughts?

yep... I did both of these 1 of a kind mods on mine LED lights in both places they forgot, errrr, left out read here for more details

I notice so many vehicles with the lip covered.. from SUVs, COVs to mini vans. Seeing as how I ride a bike, I am stuck behind a lot of cars and pay attention to these things and I would say, I am rather surprised by how many actually do cover the lip. older models as well as newer cars... yet ours did not even come with one period

these guys have been around for a while, have seen them talked about here & tried before with them, but is has been a while. the issue is he will not be doing the larger 9" ovals we need from what I understood long ago as I watched the site and even emailed. and in the last year, that has not changed. I gave up long ago on this guy, but just sent another email to see if anything has changed since you brought it up either way, it wouldn't be cheap even if he does, but I do not hold out much hope since it seems not much has changed on the site

good luck. it is not really a hard mod, just takes a lot of time as many loose ends to tie up and pieces to bring together. as for license plate cameras, the Boyo and the XO Vision both get pretty top marks. neither are cheap, and an XO Vision is what I was planning to do - but I found a license plate frame I had to have and as it w=turns out, that little camera I found works awesome.

so, after reading all of the above you still decide to go for it like I did and many others on this forums (and the thousands of others on forums for all types of cars you can go find and read up on) - it is a matter of deciding on whose kit to buy. 1 thing for sure is that IF you do this you MUST get an electronic ballast kit. period. the temp of bulb you get (generally relates to that 'neat' HID color many of us like & light output) is a matter of opinion, but as you can read here, and many places on the web, really high temp bulbs can really attract unwanted attention as their colors tend to get very blue to purple. that is why, personally, I found the 5000k (at 35w) for my low beams a great mix of light output and the European style 'look' I happen to like. kind of blue tint, but not like BAM blue or purple of the higher temps. so, I will personally recommend RetroSolutions.. he is on these forums, great kits, affordable, super helpful, easy to install, and many here have them as do I. Would I put them in high beams? no. do not want the cost and do not use high beams much. I HATE my incandescent high beams, but just can't spend the money for the look for something seldom used. For fogs? no thanks. same sentiment as high beams. I just went with MTech bulbs to get away from the dreaded incandescent color. you can research some loooong threads on HID its here for brands, colors, watts, install tips... it has all been covered in depth

this is pretty old news really. the pitfalls and illegalities of after market HID kits can be read about here.. well, let's just say over and over and over and over again as for an 'improved kit' to address this is? it is not about the kit per se and about a kit being 'improved', it is about the fact that the cars that did not come with HIDs stock do not have reflectors and lamps that were designed to be used with HID bulbs/kits. therefore, an 'improved kit' would not fix that inherent issue as a kit just comes with ballasts and bulbs & wiring harness... not entire replacement lamp and reflectors.

On my install, see here, I ran the camera wires ALONG that rubber tube as I found, trying to fish them through that tube with the other wire bundle in it was not going to happen. I spent like 10 minutes pulling/fishing it through and it is just to tight with the RCA connectors and the wires already there. So, I ran the wires along back side of the rubber tube with a zip tie. Out the hole, push the rubber end back in and it will form around it, along the back, in the top hole and rubber will reform back around it.. still water tight (but not like that is an issue really). See my photos (see photo #10 in my thread), pretty clean and cannot even see it unless I point it out. my threads talks all about it.. first Camera section text, but yes, I then ran it into the headliner, over to drivers side rear, down pillar, along floor, right up to drivers foot area, and viola... you are there. all of it 100% concealed in existing trim pieces. you will not want to try to run it from headliner all the way along celling to drivers side pillar and down that since there is an airbag in it and that is not worth jeopardizing.. so I ran it over to rear window and down as soon as I got it into the headliner. actually, once you get camera mounted - that was toughest part - and once you accept you cannot use the rubber tube and must go around it, the rest is cake when it comes to running the wires as trim can conceal it all.

$40 is cheap, or reasonable, as compared to other rates I have seen. Some want +$100 bones for this. anyway... I know you said your a member, but did you read this thread (kind of long), as it has people also that have had similar issues and might present a tip for the fix.

easy tiger.. F-me? If your skin is that thin that my mild banter with you (1) causes you to tell me to F'off in 4-5 posts and (2) I am responsible for you bugging out on the boards and helping anyone else and (3) generalizing about us here as "a bunch of ill-informed people from a website"... see ya ps - "and yes believe what you want, but I know our updates are better", no I do not believe you at all on this point. The 1.2 update is, as has been confirmed by myself and others over at SMR prior to installing and can be done yourself via a call to the Ford sync support people, the same as the dealers. heck, as I said, I did it and knew about it and had it all done before my local dealer even knew about it - so my faith in 'your' installs.. well, this is not rocket science. we use the same method, same port, same download.. same install... same results. mine runs perfect, no problems. and I did it myself.