Lex Talionis

no need for a carfax.. this car was ordered and built just for me by Ford. I ordered it. it is cheap paint job quality and cutting corner. period.

my thought... simple they try to save money and set the robots to spray just their predicted exact amount - and not a drop more - to cover the surfaces in both paint and clear coat. and in doing so, the tolerance is so tight, no room for error, bad results like this happen. period. maybe saving a gallon of paint and clear coat per car adds up to huge savings in the end.... but comes back to haunt them 10x over when they respray my hood, front valance.. and now some quarter panels. there are enough examples of these results posted here - more with paint than clear coat - to see a trend.

it is just a defect. like all the other shoddy paint job issues mentioned by me and many others. when I first got the car, I noticed, around the inside edge of the wheel well on the front, the clear coat was real thin and splotchy in places like they clear coated the quarter panel and then barely made it around the lip. it was plain as day. but, since it was not a problem per se, nothing could be done. well, clearly now, enough has pealed or come away from the wheel well to turn the corner over the lip and into the quarter panel. so, now, water is pushing up under it and viola... I am happy to announce, I found a quarter sized spot on the drivers side today I missed yesterday :angry: I have an appt with the dealer monday - I am trying to mentally prepare for the fiasco no doubt to come.

It has been covered many times here, the bad quality paint job some of us get, and I have been pretty vocal about how bad I think it is. As I have said in other posts on the topic, the worst paint job on a car I have ever had. I have dozens of spots of grit, debris, contamination, missing paint and exposed primer. In 1 case, so bad they replaced my entire hood since I had a huge open hole with no paint/primer that formed rust. Anyway.. check this out. Cleaned my car and discovered this. A HUGE piece of missing clear coat that is expanding and getting worse on the passenger side front fender well. The worst part... is that I paid extra for this paint job as it was/is a tri-coat! adding insult to injury they say.

okay.. working with Welly via email, we determined I have a bad transponder. which is why mine will not program. new transponder on the way.

STOP.. do not try my idea.. I am finding out now from the guy on ebay I may have a defective unit. I will report back.

i did what was on page 144 of manual. 9 steps, takes about 15 seconds.. no dice. BTW, I do have the remote functions working... step 1 of programming. but I do not have the transponder - ability to start car - accepted.

damn thing will not program I have programmed a key before, this one will not take.

ahh.. yes, this is just like my VW.. I would say the rack is pretty solid. 2 bolt system. yes, the plastic covers and plastic deformed, which sucks, but not convinced the actual strength is in jeopardy seeing this. I understood why it is happening, and agree it might be sub par plastics, but I am less concerned now that I see it. now, that does not mean I would still not investigate going to a legit rack for some of the weight some of you carry. as a long term roof rack user, I still think it a worthy investment. but just less concerned.

nothing special really, just cut and paste about how to cut and then flip and cut again is an option, taking out key blade from unit, and just overall proof to a cutter it can be cut. just gives me ammo if someone says it cannot be done as it seems many cutters say that, but then when they cut it, it works fine.

I might have solved your light issue! ....removed....

how bad? I have used Scratch X to remove surfaces scratches. but I guess, if you ordered their 15$ paint, you must need it

but that is interesting. I surmised earlier those might just be covers, but the rails themselves might still be solid and in fact, it is an issue with crummy covers. thoughts on that as only you guys can tell if the rails are actually really loose and sketchy? if it is just crummy covers, that is easy to fix.. buy a new cover and epoxy it on. this exact same thing happened on my Passatt wagon. but rails were fine, covers came loose.

picture? "the right front tower cover" - so are there just covers at the attachment point and the rack is actually solid? "So, now do I replace it with a real rack" - yes!

"Also, is that annoying "Agree" message come on everytime you start the navigation?" yes, no way around this. as for your reception.. are you sure you have line of sight in your neighborhood? I get that when I pull into my driveway since my house blocks the signal. pull out, all is well. If you have trees, buildings, etc. that can block it until you get open sky.

word. I need no convincing there. LOL I would suspect that is right around the corner. to much weight, to much wind pressure, to weak a stock rail design system that never expected it.

your the first here I have read to mention this issue. everyone that I have seen here is using yakima towers and not using the stock rails to carry this amount of weight. (some good posts on it here with part #s.) so, you know you at least can go to towers if needed. sounds like it will be hard or impossible to fix and not have it either repeat or do it again and likely, have a catastrophic failure in the end. seems you have been around the block with this setup, as I have on other cars using this exact setup from Yakima, and it was tried and true.... but this may be the 1 exception in your fleet. One I would be leery of continuing to use given all the bad potential here if this is not simply cosmetic. I do not have that setup on mine, I moved to a hitch rack since I have the BAMR, but wonder if that piece that is mounted to the roof is just a cosmetic foot the rail bolts to and a bolt is loose to the rail - or does it 'feel' solid? btw, with no BAMR vista roof, why are you using the fairing? did you hear whistling wind noise without it in this setup?

already got some tips printed up for the cutter "in case", removed the key from the housing, and plan to try to get it cut this week. I will report back for sure. that sucks about the light on yours, kind of a neat little feature to have it give the green light.

there is a link I posted earlier that tells of this issue and how a few people got around it.. might want to review it. I got mine, but yet to get it cut. I plan to print out some tips, remove the key from the unit, and just take that and my tips sheet.

actually, it does light up. mine turns that a green light when you press any button.

well, this is not a Ford sponsored type mod. So, software updates should not make this work any different or better - as it was never meant to be done in the fist place - so a Ford update would not try to improve something that was not meant to be done. That being said, I would still update to the latest 2.0 for its other benefits. anyway, it seems there is no way this is "suppose" to work technically speaking. what is the 3rd source you cannot use? line-in? it reads confusing as you say 3 sources but never say what the 3rd is you cannot get to... and you say "I still have thie issue of not being able to switch between sources" but then say " hooked up the USB 2 it does allow me to do 2 sources at a time and switch between them"

but... if someone here can solve this within 30 seconds of reading the post - then so should a Ford tech. sans attitude. even more so having been told what needed to be done as per Ford tech support. even if they could not fit him in to do it - despite it being about a 3 minute procedure - they could have told him how. I also have a structured day and I do get your point, but I always - always - will stop to fit in the easy ones like this for my customers... and the Ford tech should/would know this is an 'easy' one. Could have done it, and if it worked, made a happy customer. if not, THAT is when they say they need to investigate it more. which we all know, means they need the car for half a day. all this being said... the OP could have checked his manual - assuming he got one - or asked here first before going to the dealer. the dealer is always my very last resort. the web is my first

your welcome. glad it worked.

pull the fuse for a few minutes, put back in as a first step. your manual will tell you what fuse is for sync as I do not recall, it may actually be listed here on the site in another thread if you search. you could also do a master rest, also in the manual. 1. Press to enter the PHONE MENU. 2. Scroll repeatedly until SYSTEM SETTINGS appears in the radio display. 3. Press OK to enter the SYSTEM SETTINGS menu. 4. Scroll repeatedly until ADVANCED appears in the radio display. Press OK. 5. Scroll repeatedly until MASTER RESET appears in the radio display 6. Press OK. SYNC will ask you to confirm the reset. 7. Press OK to confirm. The radio display will read RESET DONE. SYNC will take you back to the ADVANCED SETTINGS menu. Note: Once a master reset has been completed, you must re-insert your USB device to access its contents.

that sooo figures. dealer talk yak yak yak