Lex Talionis

no, I think his sarcasm filter is broken. I think K&N makes one of those also.

there is someone here, you will have to search to find details, that built in a stand that blends in with the top coin holder rubber cup on the dash. IIRC, he cut through that and attached the mount to the dash directly so it is always there. then, the stand come up through the coin holder and viola... looks built in.

you know, in their there where there suppose to go :wacko:

you mean your just now noticing it that second plug input for the first time?

or put a K&N in their

well, IF you had one, you would know it as it would be mounted right there to see like Jeff's. They are not going to hide it up under the dash as you need to be able to access it easily enough to put the key in. The ones seen on this site, and my old chicks I posted about, they were all in the exact same place. Do not confuse that port for the computer system access port for one of these you might see.

yeah, but IF you get the key, they will have to reengage it to make it work - so likely, will want to charge you, which is reasonable. and, if you get the key, it will do nothing for you since it is disengaged - and we know this as your car works with no key and if it was engaged, it would not be without the key. if they want to charge you for the key and to reengage the unit, and you do not want to pay, you could also just unbolt it and move it to up under the dash and forget about it. since it is wired into the ignition, I would be leery of cutting it out, so just move it out of view.

exactly.. heck, we can see all the Edges we want, lets see the turbo

the dealer - since you didn't pay for it & they couldn't upsell you on it - disengaged it. now, it is an inert piece of plastic and wiring you get the pleasure of looking at.

DRL are not standard turned on from factory unless you live in Canada. IF you want them on in the USA, you have to go to dealer and have them program them to be on. all models have this ability.

to upload the photo.. hit the "choose file" and browse to your photo on right side of browser window. Then, hit the green "upload" button. BUT you are not done like you think. then, on the left is an "Attachments" drop down and you then have to go into that and select the images and actually add them to your post with the green plus sign. now, get on with it so we can see the setup

so you actually got the "key" as well then and that was not a cover. did you try to start the car without it? what happens. pretty good little score if you leave it parked for a long time and in a sketchy area, pull that "key".

for that price... Tom Tom

no doubt it has a cover, but no way it is USB port. I have seen them before, and though his is covered, it is like a 14 port connection. I suspect Druck52 is closest on the guess. I could have sworn though, thinking back, an old girlfriend had something like this on her Honda and it had the "key" in it - the male side - and if you pulled it, the car was dead. so, I could see it being dealer installed, but then when sold, they deactivated it so no "key" needed while on hers, they left it active so if she pulled the "key" out of the port, the car was worthless.. I bet that is what it is.

noticed these before, PJFW8 also has it on his Edge, see here

as for the "pulsed" circuit. somewhere on these boards, I am pretty sure this was all talked about in crazy depth IIRC. Not by me, but someone else here had some pretty complete data and the whole puled explanation - Maybe it was "jpeckinp" and/or "jpark". but, in basic jargon, again IIRC, the Smart Junction Box in the Edge uses a pulsed system to send the signal and so for people that had flicker issues or only 1 light coming on or come on then go off, the relay smoothes that out so no pulse no flicker. That is kind of the basics of it IIRC. not all cars use that system, the Edge does. what is interesting, and I do not think anyone could ever really explain as to why, not even Todd, some Edges have flicker issues and some not. The pulsed system in the Edge is a fact and well proven. But, for whatever reason, some people got flicker issues and then got relays and all was well. Some, like me, do not have the issue. Some, never knew if they had the issue as they started right off with the relays. So, that is why, since no one can be definitive - I think you can even read some posts where RS says you do not "need" the relays technically, but they have helped with peoples issues so likely he just recommends them right off the bat - I knew I could quickly go back to the stock light system, still leave the HID ballast and wiring in the engine bay and order the relays IF I had to if I had issue. I did not, so never had to. So, it was kind of money saved up front I would have spent if I had issue. UPDATE: not that I would read these threads, but here is some real old and early threads on HID on some of these topics IF you care and they talk about the electrical explanations if you really want to know. they could be too much info and lead to analysis paralysis.. I still stand by recommendations as I know they worked for me - and others here - and in the end, worse case scenario, you have to buy the relay kit IF you have issues (flicker, only 1 light comes on, they come on and go off, etc). maybe, maybe not, http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1553 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1914 okay.. I am done here

thanks... yeah, I was just giving you some minor ribbing I think, reading what you want, you will be happy with (1) the RS digital kits and (2) 5000k. Installation is a cake walk and if you do not have flicker issues, no relays needed and that saves on installation hassle. Todd at RS is super helpful, can always validate the info with him. did you decide to go 35 or 55w? post up when install is done, it is a great mod to do. I would never not have any HID in any car given how cheap and easy they are to install and the amazing results. Heck, if I could 'easily' put them in my 35 year old FJ40, I would. But, they are pre H11 bulbs and it is a who deal to convert a 35 year old setup. once you do this, you will hate yellowish bulbs, so get ready to do the LED bulbs in the car and license plate next.

only fuel pump issues I have read here are whining noise on some fuel pumps motors. you should ask what this "something" is and how they determined it. And, how did this something only damage the tank and pump, but not fuel lines and engine. Tell them that if they have to do this, you expect to see the fuel filter also, which will be in the tank. Whatever it is that can damage the tank and pump to the point of removal should also be seen in the filter... and be all inside the fuel lines and affected the engine I would say.

have you considered the alternative? anyway.. what is it with people signing on to say they have backup copies, then never come back

true enough.. "factory" does imply he must be in Canada. should have caught that.

you cannot turn off the DRLs yourself... you have to go to the dealer and they have to shut them off via programming.

touche oh yeah, got that as well. I think this is the 1 reflection issue most agree to having.

perfect, thanks... pretty much what my original picture shows that I wanted. glad for the info on the MZ6 fit tip. wow, those spacers are interesting. whats with the electrical tape seen in the 4th photo on the brake pedal?

hold the phone.. were you not the one in the original RS thread that said somethign to the effect of "these kits are illegal" and then went on to talk about manslaughtr if you kill someone while using these HID kits :o - so, your coming over to the dark side now :P ha ha anyway.. you need H11, that is the low beam bulb size for the Edge. 5000k is about as close to clean bright white light and not verge on blue. BUT, understand, clean pure bright white light IS slightly bluish. nothing you can do about that. We are so use to incandescent yellow bulbs in homes, cars, lights, etc - this is what you are use to so anything other than that can seem to have that tint. that being said, the higher watt you go, the more blue they come. See some of the HID charts on like 12000k and it is literally purple. so, I am pretty sure, what you seek is 5000k. clean, perfect. I did not use the relay kits and do not have relay related issue like flicker. early on, when several of us did this, there seemed to be some that had issues and some night. you can read all about that elsewhere here as to why with the PMU blah blah. in my case, no issue so I did not bother with the relays. if it were me, I would pass on them and only get them if you have issues - like flickering. I have never read about an adaptor to keep the "auto on" feature. I have 1 odd issue here and there with the auto on, but I have no idea if it is HID related nor can I reliably reproduce it. That is, sometimes when I get in and it is dark out, when I put the key to position 1, the lights correctly come on... but when I turn over the car, they shut off, as they do as the car turns over, but they do not come on so I have to manually flip the dial to get the lights on. sometimes this happens, sometimes not. I have not had any issues with the lights coming on when it senses it is dark enough while driving. they come on auto for me. just that 1 odd issue.. HID issue? not sure.

perfect! thanks a tone for those.