edge1217

I agree with Richy. My chrome clad wheels looked hazy right from the day I took delivery and I only used car wash detergent and water on them until a couple of weeks ago when I tried Collinite Metal Wax. The clad rims look better than factory new and I know they have some degree of protection. I applied with a microfiber cloth and there are no scratches at all. Should have done this a long time ago!

Best of both worlds, love it!

Yeah, it looks sturdier than the factory cover in my 2013 Limited, and it actually looks similar to the factory cover in my old 2005 Honda CR-V. I was skeptical and a bit surprised when I first saw the Ford version, but having now used both types of covers, I have a very strong preference for the low-tech Ford factory version. Why in the world would I prefer something so flimsy and not buy the unit shown in the link above? 1. My factory cover can literally be rolled up and stored easily in the spare tire cargo area underneath. This comes in handy because I don't always have the cover in place, but if I'm out and I pick something up and decide I want it covered, it's always on-hand and really simple to put on. Not so easy to do with a rigid shade-type cover like this, even if it can be quickly detached from the mounts like my old CR-V cover. My CR-V cover was fine if it was left in place, but if I needed to remove it while on the road there was really no way to store it in the vehicle without it getting in the way. And there are plenty of times when you really don't want the shade in place. For most of my CR-V's life the cover sat unused in the garage. My low-tech "roll-up and shove it" factory cover has held up really well for the year+ that I've owned the Edge and it has gotten a fair amount of use (including being installed and removed quite a few times, as well as being left in place virtually the entire summer). Great for vacations when I load up the Edge to the headliner, and can then quickly install the roll-up cover to conceal valuables while driving around on vacation. Couldn't do that with the rigid mount, it took up too much space when the car was fully loaded. 2. The cover shown in the link above has a curious Rube Goldberg kind of bend or sag, dropping down from the rear seat and extending along the beltline to the rear liftgate. My Ford factory cover slopes straight back from the top of the rear seat to the same point on the interior panel. This not only increases the amount of covered space by quite a bit, but it also looks a whole lot neater in my opinion. Importantly, with the lower height of the rigid unit it will be more awkward to retrieve items that are stowed all the way forward against the rear seat. This is a slight inconvenience with the Ford cover and would definitely be a bit more of a hassle with the one shown above. 3. There is no attachment to the rear center headrest like there is on the factory cover, which attaches to all three headrests. I know the main attachment is a rigid mount, but still I can see the forward portion of this unit sagging over time near the seat with just two support points and nothing in the middle. 4. You have to drill 10 (yeah, ten) holes to mount it. Do the screws sink into sheet metal behind the trim or do they just bite into vinyl trim material (hope not the latter)? Are the installation instructions intelligible? Better hope it works well and lasts a long time, or you'll have a daily ugly reminder of the experiment, not to mention something for the dealer to "ding" you on when you go to trade in. 5. Shipping cost is a deal killer for me, totally defeats the appeal of the rock bottom item price. The cost of getting the unit to my home is almost as much as the cost of the unit itself! 6. Out of 100 available, they've sold just one and there are no reviews. 7. Made in China. I won't do the usual rant about US jobs and poor quality and false economies due to short product life cycles because that's a personal choice. But I will share a story about how when I first got my Edge I bought a canvas drop cloth, figuring I'd put it on the floor before loading crappy cargo and have enough canvas to wrap around the sides of the cargo to protect the wheel well trim and rear seatback and liftgate from scratches and stains. Good theory, but the canvas stunk to high heaven when I took it out of the plastic bag. Yep, made in China, apparently right next to a sewage treatment plant. The stench in the canvas never did go away so I never did use that canvas. The canvas stench was probably a one-off but I have noticed peculiar odors on other "soft good" things I've bought that were made in China. Hopefully the shade material on this unit would be ok, but I'd sure like to see it in person before I bought it and make sure it passes the sniff test before I put it in my Edge. The description says "Made from Environment-Friendly Leather that releases no harmful fumes." Curious that they felt a need to call that out, and that they just said the fumes weren't harmful. Two nights ago my dog got sprayed by a skunk. Technically those fumes weren't harmful either.... 8. Is the cover really made of "Environment-Friendly Leather? Elsewhere it refers to "environmentally friendly fabrics" and in one spot they refer to it as being made of "Eco-friendly cotton" and the photos don't look like leather to me (at least not from any animal I recognize). Funny, they refer to their competitors' material as being made of "Inferior PU leather which is Smelly and Easy to break." Wow, they really seem sensitive about odors. PU leather must be the stinky kind so I guess if theirs really is leather, it's probably not the PU kind. But then they say it's some kind of unidentified fabric and then later they say it's made out of cotton (wow, just like my undies). The more closely I read, the more confused I get as to what this thing is made of. 9. Read the "Maintenance and Caution" disclaimer section. Like an amusement park ride, it's kind of fun and scary at the same time. My favorites are: "6. If you find any problems during installation or Use, Please feel free to Contact our Distributors" (aka the S.O.O.L. disclaimer) and "7. The Cargo Cover is not to be treated as protecting your cargo from Stealing. Please do not put your valuable things when uou leave it." (reminds me of the cotton swab disclaimer "we all know what you bought this for but don't put it in your ear"). Oh I almost forgot about "1. Do not pull the cargo cover when you are driving." I mean, doesn't everyone do that? Personally I think I'll stick to my low-tech cover. At the very least it's nice to have the confidence of knowing I can pull it when I'm driving.

Same here. It didn't say anything about removing the SD card so I took a chance. Install went fine and Nav is still working great. Other upgrades were very specific about getting an updated Nav card from Ford, but not this one.

I installed 3.6 this morning. The only issue I had was that my iPhone 4S wouldn't pair after several attempts. I did a master reset and it paired right away on the first try after the reset. Thought I'd post this in case others experience the same problem.

I just wanted to let everyone know that I followed Shantz's solution above and it seems to have worked really well. I got some Iron-X and sprayed a generous amount into each door corner, up into the weep holes, and along the length of the hem flange (the gutter that runs along the bottom edge of the door). I let it dwell for couple of minutes, being careful not to let it dry in the sun. Next, I agitated it with a soft nylon toothbrush, and thoroughly rinsed it with the garden hose at full force until it ran clear, and then dried it with an electric leaf blower to flush out the water. When I was convinced all the water was dried out, I repeated the process again. I did this on all 4 doors. All of the doors showed some evidence of iron particles, based on the way the Iron-X turned purple where there was iron present. The spots that I had pointed out to the dealer turned dark purple right away, so those were the worst spots. But the fact that I saw purple in other areas too indicated that the iron deposits were in more places than I had originally thought. One door was almost free of any deposits, but small traces of purple did show up even on my "best" door. There is no visible rust now that I've done this. Even the paint under the worst of the rust spots looks very sound, even shiny. So based on this, I think Shantz was correct in his identification of the problem (iron shavings from self-tapping door hardware screws), as well as the very simple Iron-X solution. The entire procedure took me under an hour, including two applications on all 4 doors as well as rinsing and drying each application. For the Iron-X, I just got the small 50ml sample bottle for $4.99 from Corey at Car-Pro. This was more than enough for two generous passes, and I have enough left to probably do another two passes if I'm a little less generous the next time around. However, from what I can see and from what Shantz reported before, I think today's application will be all I need and I'm hopeful that the problem is solved permanently. I should note that in the discussion link that Shantz provided above, some guys were advocating filling the corners and/or hem flange with silicone sealer to keep the water out. That did NOT seem like a good idea to me, so I left everything as is. BTW, I'm still waiting for Ford and my dealer to get back to me about a repair under warranty. Hopefully I won't need them now. The idea of one of their shop assistants grinding or scraping my doors and then repainting the spots always made me a little nervous! A big thanks to Shantz for sharing his understanding of the problem and for offering up a very simple but effective solution! I'll be keeping an eye on this area and will let you know if any rust spots re-appear.

Thanks SHANTZ for your very helpful post! Lots of good information about this problem in the 3 pages there, and it seems like you're right about the shavings from the ST screws for the door hardware. It's the only thing that makes sense and others on your thread seem to be pointing to the same root cause. It's surprising now to see so many cases documented, not just here but on other sites as well. I saw your Iron-X solution and it makes perfect sense that it worked, now that I understand that the problem is either metal shavings or rail dust/brake dust resting ON the surface, rather than being untreated sheetmetal that's beginning to rust. Seems like others did the same thing and it worked well and the problem never returned. I've used IX before and it's great stuff, safe on paint as Richy pointed out in your thread. So far my dealer hasn't gotten back to me with Ford's official response to my problem, and I don't take that as a good sign. At least now I know there's a simple solution if Ford lets me down. I read on your thread that someone recommended sealing the corners and hem flange with silicone, but I agree with others who cautioned against it. Those two weep holes empty directly into the flange (which is like a channel) and the lower edge of the weep hole falls below the top edge of the flange or channel. So sealing the flange would interfere with the water draining out of the weep holes and would trap water inside the door. I'm still scratching my head about why the door is designed this way, instead of rolling the sheet metal with a continuous weld, and then sealing the seam before painting and designing the weep holes to empty above the seam. Must be a cost saving thing. Will let everyone know what the dealer has to say when I give him a reminder call in the next couple of days. If I end up going down the Iron-X path, I'll let you know about that as well. Thanks again, shantz, you really brought the issue into focus with that thread!

Thanks once again, Richy. This is very helpful and your video was very clear and informative. I'd watched some of Junkman's videos before too and thought they were instructional and entertaining at the same time. OK, looks like I have a few more products to buy!

Thanks very much for confirming that you had the same problem, Lowery89. Three months? Geez, I think that's a record from what I've seen. I didn't notice mine until the car was 9 months old and I thought I was the record holder up until now. Sorry to hear that it's there, but as they say, misery loves company. Now that the issue has been confirmed it serves as a good warning for other owners to check their Edges periodically so they can get on top of the issue before it gets out of control. Hopefully most people don't have any problem. Good to hear that Ford covered your 2013 door rust problem. So tell me, what did they do? Sounds like they didn't apply any filler or body caulking if you say the water still sits there. Did they have to repaint the door's outer skin? I'm hoping on mine that they can get it all from inside and they don't have to touch the outer panel. No doubt your Sport is as prisine on the outside as my Limited, so I'm sure you know the feeling! Good to know that you found out about this problem right here on this forum. As soon as I saw the rust on mine I remembered hearing complaints somewhere, so I'd probably seen that same thread. Yesterday I went back to see if I could find it here and I saw something that sounded like the same problem, but that was just a month or two ago so it was probably another guy reporting in after the thread you saw this past winter.

Actually guys, I googled "Ford door rust" and "Ford doors rusting" this morning and came up with quite a few hits, enough to make me realize I'm not the only one out there to experience this problem. Some of the comments I saw were just the usual rants about the bottoms of some old beater trucks that finally rusted out after who knows what kind of abuse those vehicles took. But many of the complaints specifically talked about the way the channel at the bottom of the door isn't sealed, and I did see a few photos that looked a lot like mine on some Ford trucks (I recall seeing complaints on F150s, Rangers, and Expeditions). People are referring to a "lip" or "gap" or "channel" on the bottom edge of their doors, and there were several complaints about rust on relatively new vehicles. Even for Edges, I saw a couple of complaints that seemed to be from Edges in the prior series (around 2008 I think) that had started rusting by 2010, so at about 2 years. Not saying it's a widespread problem, but I do see that others have complained about it before. Limited59, I agree that this is probably a fairly small-scale problem given all the Edges on the road and the lack of big complaints. I did only find one other similar complaint on this Edge forum this morning, so not too many people seem to have experienced or noticed it on their Edges, which is great. But also keep in mind that the problem is in a very hidden area, and from the outside of the vehicle it is covered by the vinyl cladding, so a lot or people probably just don't ever notice it. bce, thanks for looking at yours and reporting back. Interesting that your 2013 isn't like that. I wonder if there was a change in the production run? My August 2012 '13 build has the same design on all 4 doors with the open lip or channel and the same corner effect at both the front and rear of each door. So to me it would appear to be the way the car was designed, as opposed to a one-off fluke where a bad door got through the production line. CARR142, I'll take a look at some other '13s on the lot when I go back on Monday. I'm really curious now, especially with you and bce saying your doors don't look like that. Thanks for your input, guys.

Thanks very much for a very cogent and helpful explanation, Richy. Good to know that slickness isn't necessarily a way to measure protection. From now on, I'm focusing on sheeting! Woot-woot! It makes sense now, because that 501/845 deep shine is still amazing -- it sure LOOKED like the protection was there but I just wasn't FEELING it. The detailing world is pretty cool. Seems like no matter what the problem might be, there's always a solution waiting to be purchased. I'll switch to DG 901 shampoo and UWW. I'd been reading about UWW and thought I should try it, so now I have a good reason to do it. No more Turtle Wax shampoo for me, now that I'm running with the cool kids now.... I'm really new to this stuff so I have to apologize. Is there a special way to do the flooding method? Is it as simple as just "flooding" a panel with a lot of water, I assume a hose with very low pressure so it sheets rather than sprays? Or do I actually have to drive it into a lake? This would be helpful to know and would potentially save me a "boatload" on recovery and EPA/hazmat costs if the later isn't really all that necessary. BTW, not sure if you saw my post about rust in the Panels section of this forum. Yesterday when I washed my 9 month old Edge I spotted some rust on the inner door panel down near the weep holes. It's in a very hidden area and I never would have seen it if I wasn't into washing my door jambs, so I guess that's a nice benefit of taking meticulous care of the finishes inside & out. Took it to the Ford dealer today to see about getting it repaired under warranty before it gets any worse. Uggghhhhh..... Anyway, thanks as always for your great advice and your willingness to help so many of us on this forum!

OK, I went to the dealer today and they said they never heard of this happening and they were very interested to see it. 3 people in the dealer's body shop came out to look at it and they were shocked at the rust spot that had formed sometime during its 9 months on the road. They felt it should definitely be covered under warranty, but of course they have to submit a claim to Ford for authorization and Ford will have the final word. The claim needs to be submitted by the service manager, along with photos that he takes, then it will take some time for Ford to review it and decide what they want to do. Unfortunately he was out at training today and tomorrow so I'll have to go back on Monday. Everyone seemed to feel there should be no problem having Ford pick this up as a warranty item, but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed. The dealer (so far!) was very good to deal with and for now I'm cautiously optimistic. They busted my chops over how clean and shiny my Edge is, right down to the clean wheel wells and door jambs, so they know I take really good care of it. I took one of them for a short ride back to the main building and she asked it she had to take her shoes off before entering. Yeah, it's that clean, and yeah, you really do.... I'll keep you posted. Meanwhile, I'd strongly advise you guys to check your doors to be sure your Edge isn't starting to rust out too. It will just take a minute or two for either a little piece of mind, or a chance to spot the problem and stop the rust before it gets too bad. Look at the pic I posted above and you'll see the area to look at. If it could happen to my lightly driven, garaged, and well-maintained car with less than 9 months on the road, it could certainly happen to someone else's Edge. Please let me and the other readers on this forum know one way or the other whether or not you find any rust. Personally, I think it's a design flaw, but what do I know? I don't mean to second guess the designers at Ford, but for the life of me I don't understand why they would leave the channel open like that on the bottom of the door and not continuously weld it or fill it with body sealer before painting? It would seem to me that with the channel filled, the rain or wash water would exit the weep holes, run over the filler, and drip off the bottom of the door panel. This is the way my wife's Honda is built, and I'm positive this is how every other car I've had was like that too going all the way back to my '62 Falcon. This entire area is well below the rubber door seal gasket so having the water run over some filler and straight off the bottom of the door shouldn't pose a problem in terms of water getting inside the car. I really don't get what they did here at all, it seems like the design is just begging for problems..... Or maybe the design is ok but my Edge just got shortchanged in the primer department and it started to rust. Or maybe there's supposed to be a line of filler covering the open channel, but they just forgot to apply it on the production line? That gets me thinking -- I'd be curious to know if that bottom channel on your guys' Edges are filled with sealer or if yours are open too. So many questions....

Hope to take it to the dealer today, this is really bothering me. Are there any service bulletins out on this? Seems to me I've heard of this problem before but I don't remember where I saw it.

I clayed it two months ago before I polished and waxed it. It's not so bad that I want to clay it right now as an interim measure, but I'll definitely clay it again the next time I polish and wax.

I thought I'd provide a follow-up to let you know how the polish/wax job is holding up. It's been a little over two months since I detailed the car and I've kept it clean and it's been garaged when not on the road. To be honest, when I washed the car today I wasn't getting the phenomenal beading that I had gotten the last couple of times I washed it. It's ok, just not as remarkable as before. The finish feels fairly smooth to the touch, but clearly not the same smoooooth as glass feeling that I had before and there is some drag when I run my hand against the finish. It still seems to have a nice deep shine though and it looks great. I'm new to detailing so I really don't know what to expect as far as durability goes with this kind of treatment. I'm thinking the Duragloss 105/501/601 treatment with Collinite 845 probably won't last the 6 months I was hoping to get out of it. I was planning on doing it again in the fall to get me through the next winter season. Maybe I'll hit it again in mid summer and then again in late fall to get me through at least most of the winter. Richy and Edgieguy, you've both done this treatment a few times. Is this consistent with your experience, to see a notable dropoff in smoothness and beading after 2 months? How often do you guys repeat the treatment? What kind of durability should I reasonably expect? I'm ashamed to admit it, but I'd been washing the car with Turtlewax (good grief!) Gold series wash that says it won't strip wax. Think this is too harsh? Thanks guys!

I washed my 9 month old 2013 Edge Limited AWD today and noticed some rust forming on the inside edge of the right rear lower door panel. It's where the outer door panel skin is rolled over the inner door panel/frame, right along the bottom edge of the door at its front corner. As you can see in the picture below, the outer door skin isn't continuously welded to the door frame and sealed, it looks as if it was designed to serve as a channel for water coming out of the weep holes (a weep hole can be seen to the right of the photo). This is the way all 4 doors are designed, and it's a natural water trap for anything that gets inside the door when driving in the rain or washing the car. I've never had this issue on any other car I've owned and it seems weird. The raised bumps above and to the right of the rust spot seem to be paint over factory body filler, so I'm not concerned about those. Check it out on your Edge and you'll see what I mean. Fortunately the rust has only started to form on this one door. If it ever does rust through it would be hidden by the plastic rocker panel trim, but I still feel like this is a really dumb design flaw and it should be fixed. I'm not sure if the rust extends into crevasses in the corner that I can't access. How do you suggest I fix this, and what can I do to the other doors to prevent rust? Would you trust this to your Ford dealer to take care of? I can picture some yahoo just spraying over it with matching paint and not really getting the job done right. I'd assume it's covered under warranty, although it hasn't perforated or rusted through so that might be a limiting factor. Any thoughts or reactions are welcome. Thanks very much!

I don't know, 15-16 MPG sounds low to me and I doubt the BAMR and tow pack are affecting your MPG all that much. My 2013 Edge Limited AWD is closing in on 9,000 miles and I'm averaging 20.8 mpg per the mileage meter. I'm also tracking MPG by hand and the meter never varies more than a tenth of a gallon plus or minus vs the hand calculations, so I'm pretty confident in the MPG reading. Been doing a lot of highway driving over the past 3 weeks which boosted the MPG from 20.1 to 20.8, so I suspect over time it will drop back down to 20.1 or thereabouts when I go back to my normal driving routine. It had pretty much settled into 20.1 and held there prior to my recent road trips, and that was based on probably 70% short trips around town and 30% highway. I live in hilly CT with a lot of stop and go driving. I drive pretty normally, and tend to hang near the front of the pack if you know what I mean. The only thing I try to do with the Edge is keep an eye on the MPG meter, kind of like watching the vacuum gauge back in the day. I try to resist the temptation to go over 65-70 on the highway and try to remember to accelerate gradually, and try to back off just a hair when the engine is under load. On the highway, the cruise control seems to be smarter than my foot as far as mpg is concerned based on the way the MPG meter reacts, so I use it on those rare occasions where the CT traffic and road conditions allow. I think all of that helps as far as MPG goes. I only burn Sunoco Regular which is 87 Octane. I have the 18" wheels if that makes a difference, and the Edge is seldom loaded with anything other than me, my wife, my dog, and 3 happy smiles.

Thanks Prinzil. I tend to agree with you that maybe I wasn't being overly cautious by taping the chrome, vinyl, and rubber trim when I did my Edge. A couple of weeks later I did my wife's Honda Accord. Being 6 or 7 years old (the car, that is) I figured I'd skip the masking. I went as easy as I could, but I did manage to get some scuff marks from the DA on the chrome window trim in a couple of places. I went really easy with the DA, applying no downward force other than the weight of the machine itself, and using a setting no higher than 3, and really trying to stay away from the trim. So when it's time to do the Edge again, I'm buying another roll of tape and I'm masking with pride.

Too funny, guys! Richy you're the guy that got me into all this mess with that Iron X/Clay/DG 501/105/601/Collinite thing. And now you're turning me onto some kinda bubble bath for the Edge. Geez, man, you're a homewrecker! Uhh, I'll call in an order to Corey first thing in the AM.....

Yeah, I hear you. I clayed, polished, and waxed the exterior of the car last month and got caught running my hand along the side to feel how smooth the finish was. "Honest, honey, it's ok. I hear that all the professional detailers do this to see if they missed a spot." But perhaps she's right, maybe my hand did linger just a little too long on the rear quarter panel. I can't help it. I have a bad case of EAS (Edge Acquisition Syndrome)! I've had it for over 6 months now and it's not going away....

Thanks WWW and Dingo, appreciate the recos!

I noticed the same thing too, c_bova, drives me crazy when I wash the car. It doesn't take much water pressure either. bce, I know what you mean about going out and playing with your Edge while the wife wonders what's going on. Late last night I went out to check something on the Edge and I didn't realize my wife had already set the house alarm. The alarm went off when I opened the door to the garage and I kinda got "the look" from both her and the dog....

Guys, I'm just curious as to what makes the Intelligent Access touch-sensitive door lock work. I'm referring to the bump on the outside surface of the door handle. Is it triggered by pressure, warmth, or moisture in the skin? Weird thing is, when I lightly touch it with my finger, it works fine, but applying the same light touch with my thumb, it works about 50% of the time now (and just about 0% during the wnter months). Unlocking the doors with the sensor on the inside of the handle has been consistently perfect, but of course I don't use my thumb for that. Really weird, right? Definitely not my imagination. Please tell me I don't need a thumb transplant.....