Vortechtral

Hey, 2013 Edge, will they fit, anyone have them or know someone that runs them? Any info would be great. Also would I need a PWM module? I got mixed replies. In an email from GTR they said I will need it, yet on a youtube video of their product, I made a comment, they replied with i shouldn't need it.

Then is it better to drain via the plug or take the rear cover off, and get a better clean out? It looks like (just a lot smaller!) a trucks RDU, and they all crack it wide open from the rear cover, drain, clean etc, replace and fill. I haven't been under yet to see if the cover can even come off with ease. Are all bolts easy to get at? Or better to drive some, get the fluid nice and warm for easier flow then just use the drain plug.

So, is it best to remove the rear diff cover and get rid of all the gunk and possible sludgey goodness, or just drive a bit and use the drain plug? I think I saw a video that they have a drain plug, maybe I'm mistaken.

Yessir, went to the dealership and got 10 liters of Mercon LV. Now I have plenty for next time as well, and a bit extra in case some kind of accident happens! I also have an idea to why my fluid was still so very cherry red and clean. My PTU was defunked and they had to put a new one in when the vehicle was still under warranty, so they changed the fluid around i think it was about 70k kilometers, so without me actually doing anything and being dumb, it still got changed and I had nothing to worry about. I'm just happy that the fluid coming out was a rich red and not brown/black!

Well, its nice that my transmission is of the year they still have dipsticks. It also pleases me that the fluid on the dipstick is a nice red color, with no smell. I heard things that if your fluid stinks then you don't change it. I'd have thought that the fluid would have been all black after this long. But for it to be a nice clean red color still makes me happy. Fingers crossed the fluid coming out of the drain hole will also be a nice red color! Ill be picking up some fluid on Wednesday, and do a drain on Thursday. Let it go for maybe a month, then do another if no slipping occurs. Thanks for the help.

Are the anti flicker modules needed for the 13 models?

So, I've been eyeing these bulbs for sometime now, however I couldn't get a definite answer if they will fit, and or the driver box more importantly will fit in the headlight housing. Anyone use these, do you love them? I know they will be a huge upgrade over halogen (which I still use) https://headlightrevolution.com/v-4-led-headlights-9012-bulbs/ There is a link for anyone that might want to see. I'd love them but I would love first to know if they will fit in all the right places! 2013 Edge, btw.

No I was never going to do an exchange, just a drain and fill. I wish I started long time go, and wasn't such a blind doofus to it.

Hey, so I never really thought about it till it was "too late" Has 180k KMs (around 111k miles) but nearly all highway driving. Shifts like a dream still at all speeds, and in reverse. Would it be safe to still change the fluid, or would this cause slipping to occur? I know its WAY past what I should have done it by, and I would like to fix my problems of being dumb and doing nothing. I assume the answers will be "change at your own risk" as there probably is no clear answer, id think anyway. However who knows, maybe I will get lucky and someone will tell me it will be okay! But yeah, over 95% of driving is all highway, with only a small bit in a small city/large town? No real stop and go traffic ever, go prairies! Any help would be of great help, thanks. Michael

Both sides actually move a bit when turning, so I guess its a shock tower bearing for each. How easy are they to replace, or is it cheap enough for it to be repaired somewhere? I was going to get some new tires real soon, so I was going to get Kal-Tire to look at it, and see if they can get a quote/want to even fix it. Thanks for the advise, I don't even know why I didn't think about the shocks and them moving.

On my 2013 SEL Edge on cold starts, cold days, and till the engine is warm, on the passenger side of the front, low end side of things, near the "DRL" area, there is a squeaking type of sound. Is this simply the belt starting to wear and slipping on the pulley?

If possible could you post some pictures, there are many things under the vehicle and I don't dare jack it up on something i'm not 100% sure it wont crumple. I don't regularly work on cars, so I don't have the knowledge others that work on theirs all the time. Pinch welds are just dumb, they bend so easy, even with slotted hockey pucks. Would like to know if a FWD and AWD have the same frame members to jack up from, would be a real breeze to jack then at least place the stands under the dreaded pinch welds.

Have a 2013 Edge SEL, when I turn the steering wheel, it only happens just after it passes center there is a "clunk". It doesn't sound like a physical knocking sound, possibly hydraulic? Only a single clunk type sound right after center (tires facing forwards) does it happen. Checked the steering fluid and its between the min/max line so that's fine. When I changed the brakes last year (it was doing it last year as well) tried to wiggle to tire in different spots to see if ball joints etc were failing (since it was jacked up, and when not test that stuff) and there was zero slop anywhere. Any hints or solutions would be amazing. Thanks.

Have a 2013 Edge, I know of the pinch weld areas to safely jack the vehicle up, however there really isn't any room to jack up and place a stand under the same area. I've taken a few different pictures to get some advice if these places would be suitable to a floor jack and/or jack stand placements. These pictures are rather large, and I don't know if they will place here well so I am going to simply add imgur links. This is the pinch weld area. The narrow but wide area (as denoted by the arrow) is the safe jacking point, but would love to know if the wide and narrow section beside it is also a safe area to place a jack stand? With how jack stands are, they are rather wide themselves however they fit really well in the larger section without touching the rocker panel. Both sections are super close to each other and look to be identical however would love to know before ruining something. https://imgur.com/M8QzT5s These next two are at the rear of the vehicle, the bolt is around the rear tire area, in front of it a tad. The second link is the starting of the control arm for the rear. That place to me doesn't look like the safest place to jack from just from shape and what not, but I could be mistaken. I saw a video where the guy jacked his up from under the control arm to place his stand in the pitch weld. Would love a central area to jack up, even this place I am posting isn't central at all, and will still make the vehicle cockeyed to one side making me jack twice to place stands on either side increasing the chances of rolling the pitch welds. https://imgur.com/DeNYtYB https://imgur.com/jchNZGu The last two are from the front. The first is what I would be to be the sub frame, I don't know if this would be a suitable place to jack from, however in some videos people say sub frames are strong and are places to jack from, again I don't want to do something before consulting, don't want to destroy my vehicle. The second is closer to the rear of the front wheel, (you can see from the first the same area for the second image) has a nice large bolt coming from it so should be a nice area to jack from to then place a stand under the closest pitch weld, however I don't know if it's central enough to raise the car on both sides to place a stand on either end at the same time. I also assume jacking from the bolt end would be rather bad, so using a spacer so the jack doesn't make direct contact with bolts would be suitable? https://imgur.com/bdzq8Zl https://imgur.com/lBwsDOI Any info or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I plan on doing a full brake job this Wednesday coming up, and any info would be greatly appreciated.

So found out either my old pad heater that I put on is either not working, or barely working. When applying it long time ago I remembered that the bottom oil pan is rather a small surface. Is there it anyone's knowledge an after market bottom oil pan that bolts onto the top stock oil pan that has a much larger surface and no janky bends and un-even surfaces? This is on a 3.5 2013 Edge. I use a pan heater over the block heater since I also run a space heater inside the Edge. Having both the block heater and space heater on at the same time, even if the space heater is on low will pop the breaker in the house. A pan heater however doesn't take much power, so both can be on at the same time, even on high with the space heater. Having a heater inside helps keep frost off, melt snow on the glass before it has a chance to stick and bind. The best part is its nice and warm inside, even the steering wheel is warm, and that's just fantastic! Once you do it, you really cant live without it, especially with how winter is going so far in Canada! Thanks.