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Alignment Specifications
Item LH RH Total/Split
Front
Camber (all except GTDI) -0.05° ± -0.75° -0.55° ± -0.75° 0.5° ± 0.75° a
Camber (GTDI) -0.15° ± -0.75° -0.65° ± -0.75° 0.5° ± 0.75° a
Caster (all except GTDI) 4.3° ± 0.75° 4.5° ± 0.75° -0.20° ± 0.75° b
Caster (GTDI) 4.4° ± 0.75° 4.6° ± 0.75° -0.20° ± 0.75° b
Toe — — 0.10° ± 0.20°
Rear
Camber -0.45° ± 0.75° -0.45° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75°
Thrust angle — — 0° ± 0.50°
Toe +0.05° ± -0.20° +0.05° ± -0.20° 0.10° ± 0.20°
a Camber Total/Split = LH Camber — RH Camber
b Caster Total/Split = LH Caster — RH Caster


General Specifications
Item Specification
Ball Joint Deflection
Lower 0-0.2 mm (0-0.08 in)
Ride Height
Front — All Edge/MKX vehicles except GTDI 53 mm (2.086 in) ± 12 mm (0.472 in)
Front — GTDI Edge/MKX vehicles 41 mm (1.614 in) ± 12 mm (0.472 in)
Rear — All Edge/MKX vehicles without 22-inch wheels 127 mm (4.999 in)± 14 mm (0.551 in)
Rear — GTDI Edge/MKX vehicles 113 mm (4.448 in) ± 14 mm (0.551 in)
Rear — All Edge vehicles with 22-inch wheels 126 mm (4.96 in) ± 14 mm (0.551 in)


Torque Specifications
Description Nm lb-ft
Rear camber adjustment bolts 150 111
Rear toe adjustment bolts 200 148
Stabilizer bar lower nut 90 66
Stut upper mounting plate nuts 30 22
Tie-rod jam nuts 90 66

HTH

If it is an OEM camera, and it is calibrated, yes it should fix issues. Unfortunately, a well-known issue for gen 1.5, including APIM, door latch, shifter, brake booster, etc.

Lower version of the system than yours, but may be a similar solution will work here also.

Do you have the 3.5 engine in your Edge? The purge valve is known to go bad, how many miles u got on it?
 
macbwt shows how to vacuum test the purge valve

Sample pics of an HID assembly here
FT4Z-13008-N
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-FORD-EDGE-OEM-HEAD-LIGHT-HEADLIGHT-LAMP-HEADLAMP-XENON-damaged-15-16-RH-/252686653134
 
Halogen headlamp here
FT4Z-13008-F
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2016-Ford-Edge-LH-Driver-Side-Halogen-Headlamp-Light-Assembly-new-OEM-/272485862492
 
Yes different part numbers, HID is 50% higher in pricing than halogen.
 
Even on gen 1.5, the halogen/HID headlamps are different.

Possibly a blend door actuator. Any hiccups with climate control?

Not all fluid is clear/light amber. ATE has some products that are blue in color, BG I believe has a product that is a pinkish red in color, so on and so forth. Helps detect leaks. So it would be more accurate say the MAJORITY of manufacturers sell brake fluid that is clear/light amber.

HTH
2012 Edge 6F50 Selector Lever R&R Cable Adjustment.pdf

If the sensor is good and there is no visible dirt/rust contamination on the sensor/in the connector, the next suspect might be a cracked tone ring. Also, make sure the wiring/brake hoses are not binding in that area.

All done in IDS, Ford's software. So if a shop has access to IDS, it can do it; otherwise dealer.

Fuel filler pipe it is then. Good luck!

My guess is they will say it is perfectly normal, especially at very low speeds. That 1-2 second delay may be a self-preserving measure implemented in the programming. Hopefully they will be able to explain it.

Have you run fuel injector cleaner yet, as suggested earlier? Check the fuel pressure at the rail. Also, try cranking for 5 seconds, stop, then try again. If the 2nd try is much quicker, there may be a fuel pump/fuel module/regulator issue. If the fuel system checks out, from filler neck to injector, then will need to look at the EVAP system next.

Sure you can replace the 20" with 18" wheels. Look up the 18" wheel OEM specs on tirerack.com and make sure you get that same effective size with the wheel/tire combo if going aftermarket. The ride will be different though, which is good and bad. Good in that it will have resistance to those everyday nasties, bad in that the response will not be the same as expected from the OEM combo. Taller sidewalls generally make for "squishier" tires, and thus decrease steering and handling response.

I guess the question is answered then? Or ...

You can check Redline Tuning to see if they have an application for your 2013 Edge. A few people on this forum have installed their products, and love 'em.
http://www.redlinetuning.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Ford+Edge+2013

Pg 131 of owner's manual:
REMOTE START (If Equipped)
The remote start feature allows you to
pre-condition the interior of your vehicle.
The climate control system works to
achieve comfort according to your previous
settings.
Note: You cannot adjust the system during
remote start operation.
Turn the ignition on to return the system
to its previous settings. You can now make
adjustments normally, but you need to turn
certain vehicle-dependent features back
on, such as:
• Heated seats.
• Cooled seats.
• Heated steering wheel.
• Heated mirrors.
• Heated rear window.
You can adjust the default remote start
settings using the information display
controls. See Information Displays
(page 100 (actual reference pg 103/108)).

Sticking with OEM tire size for the 20's is the best way to go. Keep in mind we are assuming OEM-sized 20s as well. If you have different wheel width, the actual tire size would change.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php
 
245/60-18 is original 18" tire size
245/50-20 is original 20" tire size
 
Compare these two sizes here:
http://www.sizemytires.com/calculators/compare

Should be closest to the strut tower on the passenger side of the firewall. At least that is where it is on a 2007.

Install the 2 brake caliper guide pin bolts.
To install, tighten to 26 Nm (19 lb-ft).

Using 2 new copper washers, position the brake hose and install the brake caliper flow bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

Heat shields are located on the exhaust manifolds and on the catalytic converters. If you follow the exhaust pipe(s) from back to front up to the engine, you will first encounter the cat shield, then the manifold shield, in that order.
 
Pretty sure you will have to jack up the Edge and check them from underneath.
 
Per the 2007 (I know your is a 2011) workshop manual:
INSPECT the exhaust system for loose or missing heat shields or foreign material trapped between the heat shields and the exhaust system components. If any heat shields are loose, INSTALL worm gear clamp 7L5Z-5A231-AA and tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). If the heat shields are missing, INSTALL new heat shields or exhaust system components as necessary. If a rattle, noise or buzz condition persists, INSTALL a new heat shield or component as necessary.
 
 
For the exhaust manifold heat shield:
Removal
Remove the LH catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00 . Remove the LH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S). For additional information, refer to Section 303-14 . Remove the 3 bolts and the LH exhaust manifold heat shield.

Welcome & congrats! I too agree wiring issue, since more than 1 light bulb affected. How do the bulb sockets look (any burn marks etc)? It is always possible that incorrect spec bulbs were installed to begin with.