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$7K is bombastic deal, but what makes it really valuable is the TLC you are putting into it.

Welcome, glad to have you here

Be glad you do not have the auto stop start. While it may be better on fuel economy, it is quite hard on the engine.

Installing the Drivebright HID lights on a Gen 2 OEM Halogen setup (thanks, Mikula!) http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24271-how-to-hid-headlight-installation-from-drive-bright/

Thank you for the writeup hope they provide great service!

any codes in the computer? about 3v too low at 2,000 rpm, and about 1.2V too low at idle. Did you check the voltage between the B+ terminal and the positive battery terminal. The test to ground at battery voltage is fine. But maybe there is a drop between the B+ terminal on the alternator to battery positive terminal connection. Also slow charge the battery overnite with a battery tender see if it holds a charge. Any electrical gremlins with the CD player, shifter or door latch?

Welcome to the community, and congrats on the soontobe Edge ownership experience! ETA?

Barf?

Measurements of the 170 by Xtra http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22703-thermostat-2016-edge-sport/page-3?do=findComment&comment=184898

Not sure why you need such a device if you are already running a tune, but let's see ...

havent heard of any failures on the edge 2.0 WPs so far, either gen 1.5 or gen 2. most failures have been on gen 1's so far, and that means the 3.5 engine. some failures on the 3.5EB transverse engine also. but yeah, i just don't understand that first change interval either. go with the 3/50 from the start, and the water pump should be pretty happy. Maybe flush it every time. Would even go so far as to say a yearly drain/fill wouldn't hurt, but may be excessive for most people.

IF you got a code for the fuel injector, you should replace it. I would replace all 6 personally, get a fresh start. check codes again. May not trigger a CEL but may be stored in the PCM's memory. If you end up with a leaky injector, you could ruin a catalytic converter. A FIC product is at best a bandaid if the issue keeps coming back. CEL flashing means notable amount of misfiring is occurring. If you have not changed plugs yet, that is also a smart thing to do while the fuel injector (s) is/are being replaced, since the intake manifold has to be removed anyway.

Correct. Use a tiny tab of blue loctite to seal it right.

Ford factory service manual (FSM)

Right? They just want you to follow instructions, and not question, LOL.

"Unnecessary" and "bling". Didn't think ANY bling was unnecessary for an Edge Sport!

Front General Specifications Item Specification Brake disc minimum thickness 26 mm (1.023 in) Brake pad maximum taper wear (in any direction) 3.0 mm (0.118 in) Brake pad minimum thickness 3.0 mm (0.118 in) Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in Bleeder screw 8 — 71 Brake caliper anchor plate bolts 133 98 — Brake caliper flow bolt 25 18 — Brake caliper guide pin bolts 88 65 — Brake flexible hose bracket bolt 20 — 177 Brake tube fitting 17 — 150 Rear General Specifications Item Specification Brake Disc Minimum brake disc thickness 10.007 mm (0.394 in) Brake Pad Maximum brake pad taper wear (in any direction) 3.0 mm (0.118 in) Minimum brake pad thickness 3.0 mm (0.118 in) Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in Bleeder screw 10 — 89 Brake caliper anchor plate bolts 103 76 — Brake caliper bolts 33 24 — Brake disc screws 20 — 177 Brake disc shield bolts 15 — 133 Brake flexible hose at caliper 25 18 — Brake tube fitting 17 — 150 Brake noise damper 14 — 124

Welcome to the community, hope we can get your questions and concerns sorted!

Understandable.

Guess we should clear up WHICH V6 we are talking about now, LOL. The 3.5 or the 2.7 ...

The "sensor" is a "dumb" switch. It is prone to leaking over time, so I would check for that.

Should be on top of the valve cover, after you remove the engine appearance cover. Trace it back from the hose shown in the first diagram. Of course Ford shows it as an assembly, so ...

Pennzoil Ultra is a relic now. It was a true synthetic oil with the price point to reflect it. But still, the Penn Plat and Ultra Plat are good oils. Being made from natural gas, impurities are lower, which helps prevent deposits/varnish. http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/penzultra.htm And an older Blackstone report from 2015 (Note report says Penn Ultra, but is actually PUP if you read the post I took this from https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3692060/VOA_Pennzoil_Ultra_Platinum_5w) Do not have a VOA for PP or PUP handy currently for 5W30 but here is a 0W20 test http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil_Platinum_0W20_dexos.html

I am sure with some feedback they can correct the issue. Keeping the faith can pay off.

Welcome & congrats on the new ride!