WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Oy Vey!!!

Great list! ROFLMAO

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23097-2014-edge-limited-no-heat/

2 sensors, and definitely easier with the engine out. good time to check out the solenoid body also, but since you say shifting is good, maybe just change its filter.

That list is hogging my screen, LOL.

Trans fluid level and condition should be the first things to check when suspecting transmission issues: is the fluid pinkish red, is it clear of debris, and is it between the hashmarks on the dipstick when trans is warmed up etc. Second, check the condition of the dogbone/torque mount visible from under the vehicle. The bushing is likely torn at this mileage, and it will not buffer the trans movement properly. macbwt has videos on howto check MACTFORDEDGE on YouTube. Thirdly, when did you service the plugs/pcv valve/air filter/throttle body/MAF sensor last?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13874-rear-wheel-hubbearing-torque-specs/?do=findComment&comment=107423

Not for the Edge, but for other vehicles as noted. IDK if those vehicle owners have received repairs OR rental reimbursement tho.

More importantly now that they offer a rental option, they probably won't be held liable if something does happen prior to repair work being completed. Remember, this is for the PASSENGER air bag recall ONLY. Still have not addressed driver air bag recall. You may not have a passenger in the front seat 100% of the time, but you are sure to have a driver ...

Aside from the fact I don't really see value in the HM oil by way of additives like moly or ZDDP anyway, the seal swellers will wear down seals faster than they would otherwise, and thus leaks will happen faster too. This is a gradual process of course, one OC probably won't do it. But once the seal(s) start leaking, you will be in for major repair bills. That 75K might apply to engines from 20+ years ago, it certainly does not now. You would be better off using a slightly higher viscosity oil if it comes to that, instead of an HM labeled oil. Go here to macbwt's virgin oil testing comparison sheet and see for yourself what difference if any between Mobil1 and Mobil1 HM ... https://drive.google.com/open?id=1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE

Welcome to the forum, pricing on the ST is as yet undetermined, but I hope will be in line with expectations

Why high mileage oil? Unnecessary with our Edge/MKX vehicles unless you actually spot a leak, plus a oneway street with the seal swellers. Stick with the regular oil.

For reference http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12731-radiator-fan-assembly-replacement-procedure/

macbwt replaced the assembly in 9 minutes Actually not that bad. what voltage was the charger puttng out? what voltage are you seeing at point of delivery to the fan? If the voltage is in excess of 12V at POD then it is possible the fan motor(s) could be dying out. A slow death is not uncommon with electrical parts.

Dang! Hope your Edge gets fixed up right, Xtra!

35w works best for most people. 50w kits need to be wired directly to the battery for best results, and will "whten" the light. Also output is NOT proportional to the wattage. Best bet is a 4300K kit if you don't mind slightly yellowish lights, or 5000K kit for best compromise between "whiteness" and output. As far as AMP vs D2S I have no idea. Maybe to allow for factory HID replacement vs halogen? Here are some pics from Amazon to illustrate the differences between the parts https://www.amazon.com/Morimoto-Igniter-STAINLESS-BRACKETED-BALLAST/dp/B073TNTLQC https://www.amazon.com/Morimoto-AMP-XB-IGNITER/dp/B072HTMM5J/r

Seems like you need to replace the fan assembly, not necessarily the FCM, as the fans did not spin up when wired direct to the battery. Lots of problems can happen with aftermarket products, as enigma mentioned. If you don't want to pay for Motorcraft, your secondbest bet would be Dorman, or TYC. In cases of engine overtemperature, there is a failsafe routine that makes the engine run on 3 (alternating) cylinders. This acts as an air pump to keep the engine cool. I don't think it incorporates fans into this failsafe. typically you will see an associated P1299 code.

Let's hope they get that adapter soon! I think you will like the difference a pro cleaning of the fuel system makes.

Chrome clads? They are glued on. They CAN be removed, and there are some companies that make replacement covers, but last I heard, the 20s were out of stock.

No way to know for sure. All I can say is that silicates in coolant are blamed for pump degradation and failure, so when you change coolant, go with a silicate free formula. The silicates precipitate out and thats when they start causing problems.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23097-2014-edge-limited-no-heat/

the 18/17 references are to wheel size not rotor size. there are a few members here who have replaced brakes already, I am sure they will pipe up soon

Dang killjoy!

The dealership replaced the ignition switch on my 2007, and for the most part, the problem went away. I found that being too quick with key removal after engine shutoff will make the problem reappear. So I give it a second, then remove the key. No problems that way. Also, turning the steering wheel a bit left/right will make it stop if it does occur.