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Both brands are top quality, I have a slight preference for Victor Reinz, but really Mahle should work work well too. Could be that the PCV valve is causing a problem. If it is clogged/not functioning properly, it can cause buildup of pressure inside the crankcase/engine and cause seals to leak. So well worth replacing for peace of mind.

5 7T4Z-6584-A Valve Cover Gasket EDGE, MKX; LEFT $14.58 $10.06 5 7T4Z-6584-B Valve Cover Gasket EDGE, MKX; RIGHT $14.53 $10.03 LEFT is bank 1 RIGHT is bank 2. The FelPro kit looks like it includes everything for both banks, including valve cover gaskets, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals and VCT solenoid seals. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4890087&cc=1434490&jsn=10698

I suppose you could get a probe to examine the rear valve cover (bank 1) without removing the intake manifold, to look for similar oil leak issues, but it would be easier to take the manifold off since you need to check the spark plugs to give you a comparison with spark plugs from bank 2. But it looks like no leaks on bank 1 from your video. Most likely you would get an oil smell in the cabin if there were a leak on bank 1, unless it is slow enough. Will check the logs soon.

Over a quart in 5,000 miles, that is not normal with ANY quality oil - conventional, synblend or full synthetic, for these engines. Have you pulled the COPs and plugs? More than likely it is a valve cover gasket or a spark plug tube seal leak. Surprised there is no misfire issue. Have you checked codes? Any leaks from Bank 1 (firewall side)?

Offtopic, but if you have the 3.5 in the Edge, be sure to service fluids as soon as you can. It is due/overdue.

The brand is available, the specific tire, I dunno.

well, that was a SHORT run! Looks like the TV folks are in charge of the car lineups now.

People would do well to heed your warning. Sometimes they get "lucky" with aftermarket axles from say, Detroit Axle, but only worth if you are providing the free labor to go with

Woohoo! #1 I hope

6F50/55 transmissions link (above link goes to 6f35) but only thru 2014, so will need to call directly i think. No telling what changes, if any, were made for the 2.7EB. https://spprecision.com/products/6f50-6f55-transmission-sale.html

You would need to follow the procedure for 2011-14, it IS different. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23097-2014-edge-limited-no-heat/

Are you resetting the mpg and trip meter every time you fuel up? That is usually the reason why there is a discrepancy. Sometimes the pump will click off way too early and you'll think you filled up completely, but still have gallons to go.

The value of your Edge just plummeted $5,000 USD Congrats!!!

IDK for sure. But your statement seems a valid one to me. Keeping a cushioned separation is important to the integrity of the glass. I am not sure exactly what kind of tape it is, but it should be automotive grade at least. This way it will last, not get moldy/mildewed, etc. All those things you look for products for use in the outdoors.

Sport https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/auto-parts/2015/ford/edge/sport-trim/2-7l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/grille-and-components-scat Titanium https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/auto-parts/2015/ford/edge/titanium-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/grille-and-components-scat

The steps are quite simple, it is just that care has to be taken when lifting the spoiler off the glass and reinstalling it. Definitely a 2+ person job. This procedure is for a 2014, but very similar for your 2008. Spoiler Item Part Number Description 1 W651016-S Spoiler nut covers (2 required) 2 W621926-S Spoiler nuts (5 required) 3 010807 Spoiler 4 — Spoiler retainers (part of 010807) 5 021A46 Spoiler gasket Remove the liftgate trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 .Disconnect the electrical connector and the rear windshield washer hose from the rear spoiler. Remove the 5 rear spoiler nuts. Remove the 2 nut covers. Remove the 5 nuts. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). Place a piece of tape on the liftgate to protect the paint. NOTE: There are 4 pin-type retainers on the bottom of the spoiler. When removing the spoiler it is difficult to access the retainers to release them from the liftgate. It may be necessary to pry upward on the rear spoiler to release it from the retainers. Do not pry on the window. Remove the rear spoiler. Place a pry bar between the liftgate and the spoiler. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Happened to mine a LONG time ago LOL. The best way to fix it is to remove the spoiler and redo the weatherstrip on BOTH sides of the spoiler. The trick is to NOT put pressure on the glass while you remove/install the spoiler. There might even be a TSB or two on this, I know there is for the windshield where it meets the cowl, have to check.

Just as well. Have you seen the dirty rags they use to "clean" your vehicle? LOL

PR costs money, so it won't happen, LOL.

Oh no! So this is out of pocket? That really sux! Hopefully it is just a loose fitting, and does not need the line replaced

the only spec I have seen for oil pressure is Oil pressure Minimum 30 psi @ 1,500 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature so check under those conditions and verify.

crank sensor resistance should be between 250 and 1100 ohms, so it seems spoton in your case. you are seeing intake cam timing overretarded on BOTH bank 1 and bank 2, plus misfire bank 1 and Insufficient EGR flow. The Edge/MKX does not have a separate EGR component as it is all integrated into timing operation. The timing can be explained by sticking VCT solenoids, at least that would be the easy solution. But to have both on at the same time is unusual, unless it is a case of a delayed oil change or incorrect oil weight. As enigma said, check the PCM first, clean up the connections, apply dielectric grease to the connectors and reconnect. Then clear codes (KAM reset) and see what if any codes reappear.

If it is FWD, you can probably top it off and take it in if there are no traffic issues. Best is always a tow, in case the trans itself is leaking. Passenger side, right?

Wow, that's a boatload! Do you know what codes your Edge was/is showing? seems like you changed pretty much everything in the timing system that could be changed. It is possible that cam and crank sensors might be next on the list to check out (do not replace just yet). I would also consider cleaning the MAF sensor or just replacing it entirely with a quality aftermarket brand if cleaning makes no difference. Any issues with pests/rodents in your area? Could it be chewed up wiring or blocked airflow?

Welcome to the forum!