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Not a mechanic by far, or even an engineer, LOL. As far as the claims, all we have to go by is empirical evidence. macbwt bases his on experience with 3 Edges that he owns/has owned, and has a rigorous maintenance schedule. No WP/CP failures thus far. Also regularly has oil tested. Monitors powertrain with Forscan Lite daily. All things most people will NOT do, or will entrust to others thinking the work was done correctly. Cracking open the hood seems to become more of a lost art everyday, as claims of extended life products grow and spread like kudzu weed.

Glad it's taken care of. Could have eaten up the tire over time.

Ecoboosts have used MAP sensors from day 1.

The valve covers have the baffling Ford deemed necessary for oil separator function. More issues with Ecoboost PCV systems mean that they DO have oil separators installed. And yes EB PCV valves/oil separators do get gummed up and need replacing from time to time.

Reposted TSB TSB 17-2219_Push Button Start-Shift To Park Or Transmission Not in Park Message-Discharged Battery-Unable To Remove Key.pdf

Alignment Specifications Item LH RH Total/Split Front Camber (all except GTDI) -0.05° ± -0.75° -0.55° ± -0.75° 0.5° ± 0.75° a Camber (GTDI) -0.15° ± -0.75° -0.65° ± -0.75° 0.5° ± 0.75° a Caster (all except GTDI) 4.3° ± 0.75° 4.5° ± 0.75° -0.20° ± 0.75° b Caster (GTDI) 4.4° ± 0.75° 4.6° ± 0.75° -0.20° ± 0.75° b Toe — — 0.10° ± 0.20° Rear Camber -0.45° ± 0.75° -0.45° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75° Thrust angle — — 0° ± 0.50° Toe +0.05° ± -0.20° +0.05° ± -0.20° 0.10° ± 0.20° a Camber Total/Split = LH Camber — RH Camber b Caster Total/Split = LH Caster — RH Caster General Specifications Item Specification Ball Joint Deflection Lower 0-0.2 mm (0-0.08 in) Ride Height Front — All Edge/MKX vehicles except GTDI 53 mm (2.086 in) ± 12 mm (0.472 in) Front — GTDI Edge/MKX vehicles 41 mm (1.614 in) ± 12 mm (0.472 in) Rear — All Edge/MKX vehicles without 22-inch wheels 127 mm (4.999 in)± 14 mm (0.551 in) Rear — GTDI Edge/MKX vehicles 113 mm (4.448 in) ± 14 mm (0.551 in) Rear — All Edge vehicles with 22-inch wheels 126 mm (4.96 in) ± 14 mm (0.551 in) Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft Rear camber adjustment bolts 150 111 Rear toe adjustment bolts 200 148 Stabilizer bar lower nut 90 66 Stut upper mounting plate nuts 30 22 Tie-rod jam nuts 90 66

You can try the magnet trick to train the TPMS, videos available on YT. If it does not work, the tool has been a surefire way to train the sensors.

Yes the air scoop on the underbody shield is what macbwt was referring to. Now a commonplace implementation across Ford's line. Puzzling the 2.7 does not have it, for sure.

Welcome!

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20436-ac-stuck-on-hot/?do=findComment&comment=155373 Step 5

You can always compare electrical values between old and new parts to see if anything tangible is to be found.

I would think 212K proves out the pump design But yes, maintenance cannot be ignored. If you are willing to budget in, you have two choices: change the pump or change the engine entirely. This avoids major interruptions of your life should an event occur. And you have some savings stashed if it doesn't. Can't lose. A periodic Blackstone Labs type engine oil analysis will let you know if there is looming danger. Some oils use sodium, so be aware that sodium in oil is ALSO used as an indicator of coolant presence in the oil.

Welcome!

you mean this? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10720-highest-mileage/?do=findComment&comment=81099

welcome!

I believe that replacing that actuator may be the long term fix, yes.

Updated TSB 18-2057 due to incorrect procedure in 17-0035 TSB 18-2057 Exhaust Odor in Vehicle 2015+ Edge 2016+ MKX_Supersedes Incorrect Procedure in 17-0035.pdf

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the new ride! :camera: :camera: please!

I feel humbled to say the least. I am not well-versed in automotive mechanicals, tho I do try to puzzle things out, figuring there's got to be logic in it LOL. Hope you have luck with the eBay MAF. I tried one such takeoff (from a reputable company) made not a whit of difference. I caved and bought a Hitachi off of RockAuto, as it said it was OEM product. So far, so good! HITACHI MAF0012 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Sensor Only Info Actual OE Part

Were new o-rings used during the install of the new evaporator? IIRC, a little PAG oil is all that might be needed for them.

Probably original fluid still in the PTU. The breakin period will deposit fine shavings onto the magnetized fill plug. As akirby said, replace the fluid (it should stay clean on the last drain). Recheck in a few months time. Hopefully that is all the intervention that is needed.

The plugs look ok-ish to me. But the gap growth is rather quick for only 53000 kms on them. I would say in your case, change them every 50000 kms to be safe. One possibility for the oil spots is the Engine Oil Pressure switch. More typically happens on 2011-14, but does sometimes happen in 2007-10 MYs. It is on the engine block to the left and above the oil filter, close to the alternator/generator. Tight spot, inspect carefully. If it is leaking, it is possible that oil has deposited on the valve cover from there. You are sure the oil filter is not double-gasketed, right? Sometimes the oil filter leaves the gasket behind. The leak would be quite severe tho, so I don't think that is the case.

You mean the evaporator was leaking? the condenser is in front of the radiator. Seeing more evap leaks nowadays.

Any PCM/ECM that uses knock sensor data to change timing advance is going to automatically limit power output given that the conditions dictate it. More critical on forced induction engines than naturally aspirated ones. If a MAF sensor is being used, and it is disconnected, the PCM will use default values and the engine will run like c*** when driven. As with any other component in the engine, the PCM assumes that the MAF is a fixed size with a fixed response rate etc. That is why when you change the MAF sensor, it is usually best to go with OEM because the set values for stimuli (i.e. voltage for flow rate) are the same. Now if you instead installed a MAF that uses different set values for the same exact stimuli, then the PCM would not be able to respond or adjust correctly, the engine would run like c***, and codes would get set. Same goes with VCT solenoids. If they are not functioning correctly or are disconnected, the PCM has no choice but to use default set values, which may be something like 10 degrees of advance, which of course is not right for most conditions the engine will see.

Indy shop primarily coz you can bring your own. Use Autozone high carbon rotors and ceramic pads for best life, you will see them in macbwt's YT videos. Be sure to clean and grease the slide pins too. With the extra work the rear calipers have to do with integrated parking brake setup, it is doubly important the slide pins and pistons move freely.