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Sure if you want to look at it that way But it is rated highest because it has the highest levels of antiwear and detergents, but also very likely the best base stock. They have been ester-based for as long as I can remember. I don't know of anyone in the list of oils tested that claims to be ester base stock. They will say "high quality synthetic base stock" and leave it at that.

Excessive humidity and/or recirculation mode will do that. The A/C is a dehumidifier.

Hope they get it back to you in 110% shape. Good luck!

Based primarily on analysis data easily available to the public, and cost per quart of the product. Base stock analysis is much more expensive and so we have to go by the marketing terminology of conventional / synthetic blend / full synthetic. Which in the U.S. is = muddy waters at best. The goal is engine longevity and operational smoothness over time while minimizing major repairs. How can you expect real-world analysis? You have to source UOA reports from BITOG for example. Or you can simply ask Blackstone or read their published findings. Is that third-party data trustworthy data? You make the call. Bill has published about the most one person can, documenting every oil change with an oil analysis.

Welcome to the community, Ed, congrats on the new ride, and thank you for your service Quite a Ford history there, here's to many miles of happy motoring!

Can only test what the budget allows LOL. Just to get Amsoil, you have to jump through hoops if there are no local distributors. You can see samples of UOA from Amsoil 0W20 on the site on both his Edges. LSPI knowledge is still in flux. But yes, additives, not only in oil but gasoline as well, contribute to it. It is also a forced induction-only issue, and many engines out there are still naturally aspirated. Redline performs quite well also in the field per the UOAs. In addition to significant antiwear properties, which outstrip even the current Amsoil formulations. This is a whole nother debate, but you will see additives being removed in European formulations, and the service intervals being shortened at the same time. Just can't have your cake and eat it too, I guess. American formulations are moving in the same direction.

they seem to be using stronger base stocks with the AP product, but the lack of antiwear additives compared to their regular Mobil1 and Mobil1 EP is surprising. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4389559/mobil-1-0w-20-annual-protection-voa-tbn-tan Granted this is 5w20 data, but you can see it at mactgarage.com under the Oil Analysis section. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026 Test of 5W30 AP by PQIA back in March shows it in a better light http://www.pqiadata.org/Mobil1_Annual_Protection_5W30.html

How big are the diesel turbos? The transverse gas engine turbos are really tiny, the longitudinal ones are bigger. But not sure how they compare to diesel.

can you post detailed pics of all the connections at the battery and fuse box? That would help identify OEM vs alien configurations. Usually it is an aftermarket alarm or audio system that raises heck.

Real sorry to see ya going through this. Hope Momma Ford can come to the rescue or at least provide an assist.

could be the master cylinder leaking into the brake booster. as long as it's not out of pocket, LOL.

I highly recommend using only conventional oil 15W40 in our 3.5L engines here in the U.S. :bliss: J/K! As far as wearing similarly/wear numbers, "show me the money"! Does anyone on this forum post oil analysis data with usage details? Or do we assume what is good for one engine is good for all?

Welcome, and congrats!

Bleeding the ABS? No, pretty simple, I believe for some MYs, you can even do it with Forscan for Windows EL.

Livernois is a big organization with a lot of concurrent projects in the works. So sometimes the real answer comes down to who you talk to, and how persistent you are. Just have to keep asking the questions. Snox, good to know the SHO was the first to get an upgraded pump from Livernois, and even better, that it was yours! Xtra, fuel injectors are probably the last thing you need to worry about unless you start to see them fail. Got over 600AWHP on the 3.5EB with stock injectors.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/

The F150 was probably the first one to get an upgraded aftermarket HPFP, and quite some time later, the SHO/MKS/Flex/Explorer. May or may not require permanent removal of the appearance cover. With any luck at most you will need to shave off some foam on the underside of the cover to fit, as has been done on the 3.5EB. Livernois and XDI are the two vendors I know of currently making these pumps.

Or you got lucky and the previous owner did indeed service the PTU/RDU regularly. Check the RDU and let us know how the fluid looks. Sometimes owners come from 4x4 backgrounds where regular fluid replacement is indeed a thing and carry over that mentality to "newer, improved, bestest" vehicles.

Typically a grid disruption will only affect the actual broken line, but IDK if it works the same on the Edge/MKX. If it is not coming on at all, have to look at fuse, relay, or FCIM/HVAC module. Fuse 26 (40A) in the battery junction box. Try replacing it anyway, just in case it is not able to take a full load.

Brake Booster is likely covered under the 13N02 extended warranty CSP.

Unless you opted for PremiumCare, electronics like this will not be covered. PremiumCare is about as B2B as it gets with the exception of listed wear items. Nobody really knows why the camera fails, or at least they have not publicized their findings. Electronics actually will go bad faster than mechanical components in a lot of cases, especially ones exposed to the outside environment.

Here in MD, cost for 93 can be significantly higher than for 87. Costco usually has the lowest differential at about 40-45c/gal, while Shell tends to have the highest, up to 80c/gallon at some stations (!).

No easy answer. You will have to inspect the track,many moving parts to it. You can start by watching the 2-part video series by macbwt to see what all you might need to do. Hopefully nothing is broken, because replacing parts is EXPENSIVE on these things. Some have even taken to sealing the BAMR closed.

Welcome to the community! Yeah, there have been a lot of developments for the Gen 2+ Edges, since Ford FINALLY put some power in them How does your Sport sound with the MRT axleback? Upload a video if you are so inclined!

Knowing Ford, you would have to buy the bracket in its entirety. Can you ziptie it? Not a frequently removed part, so a good quality ziptie might be all you need.