WWWPerfA_ZN0W

And have a buddy who is a good mechanic

What is the maintenance history on your 2010? How many miles on it? The oxygen sensors are usually near the last in the chain of failure, so issues will be as mike notated above.

yes it is.

Good info, thank you.

Looks like it is a fit for 2015+ Edge, F150, Mustang at least. F2GZ-1A189-AF2GT-1A180-AB F2GT-1A150-AB

Welcome and congrats! Please do post pics of the new ride!

Hi there, Cellbine!!! Hope they have positive answers for you!

Quite a bit of history in there

Only coils will work for your 2011. Plugs and gaskets you purchase separately.

Just when you thought the problem is solved, it recurs ...

Not sure which exact sensor on Bank 1 this code refers to, but probably the intake since it is the "A" sensor? Bank 1 is referred to as LH (lefthand), Bank2 is referred to as RH (righthand). Basically you have to remove the appearance cover to get to these sensors. (For the sensors on Bank 2 you would in addition need to remove the air cleaner outlet and CAC pipe on that side, a bit more involved.) The intake and exhaust sensors are right next to each other. LH (left­hand) Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensors Remove the nut next to the oil fill cap. Torque: 42 lb.in (4.8 Nm) Remove the bolt at the rear of the appearance cover (next to firewall) and remove the engine appearance cover. Torque: 93 lb.in (10.5 Nm) Remember to oil the sensor O-Rings before reinstalling. 5W30 engine oil. https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/sensorsdevices/sensor-camshaft-position-7871083-1

On previous model years, all it has taken is to remove the liftgate trim panel, remove the two mounting screws and press in the tab to remove the high mount stoplamp assembly. Hopefully same for Gen 2. EDIT: Alas it is not. The rear spoiler has to be removed to replace the stoplamp

Tint the BAMR to handle the heat

Searched on LEVITTOWN

Also in Latin America, chances are good that the fuel used is heavy on Ethanol. So a custom tune is highly preferred to make sure the fuel pump(s) are not taxed. Livernois, SCT tuners, HP Tuners etc are the best options here.

Have you checked associated wiring to make sure nothing is loose, dirty, or has bent/pushedin pins? Just clearing codes is a quickie thing, but not if the codes keep returning.

Fits the 3.7, cannot confirm on the 3.5. I think they use the same intake manifold, so chances are very good. https://www.bbkperformance.com/mustang-v6-ecoboost-3-7-f150-73mm-throttle-body-11-17.html

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10937-employee-pricing-on-all-parts-accessories/

Time to 3D print that Fumoto LOL.

turbo kits are expensive when properly done, and will still push the engine towards a shorter life/less reliaibility. Plus the transmission is not really built to handle too much more power anyway. You are better off maintaining fluids on a special operating conditions schedule, then adding the tune. Perhaps CAI/Exhaust/BBK TB also if you have the 3.7L engine. A dropin filter upgrade is just as effective as a CAI as noted by TRMN8TR by the way, even on Ecoboost engines. The K&N CAI can add sound, but also heatsoak issues. These engines run HOT. If you turbo it, you have to tune anyway. Really don't recommend it unless you a) tear down and rebuild/blueprint the engine, b] improve the stock rotating internals, and c) build a deckplate to close off the open deck configuration http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_pdf/2018/SSM2018CycloneEcoBoostTwinTurboInstallationKitRev1.pdf Talk with the guys at supersixmotorsports.com if you want to do it right.

Welcome and congrats, I think, LOL. Usually the purge valve on the firewall acting up. Test it for vacuum see if it holds. If not, replace it. Check macbwt's YT channel for info

usually means a new purge valve assembly has to be installed, and in cases of the 1.6/2.0, an air cleaner outlet pipe as well. http://revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=177163