WWWPerfA_ZN0W

an alternative look https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=PSY24W&_sacat=0

hope you don't live in a rust belt state. if you do, expect a helluva fight getting the old one out.

a ) check wiring is not pinched, assuming motorcraft sensors were installed? b ) check manual release valve and shift pin are correctly installed and in correct position c ) check the transmission cable and shift lever alignment - rare to be knocked out of place, but on the table as a final possibility

well done, enjoy!

i had mentioned a company referred to me for arbitration but they no longer seem to be handling such cases. maybe @1004ron can help?

so sorry to hear. hope you can get replacement value from the insurance company. sometimes you have to fight for it sometimes you don't. with the rising prices over the last couple of years, paying attention to this is very important. @bscott94

if the noise exists when turning the wheel at idle while parked, then most likely it is the strut mount. strut mounts should generally be replaced with struts - motorcraft/ford brand is by far the best choice from user reports. definitely look at the links and the rest of the suspension bushings as suggested above. control arms, tie rod ends, are all possible suspects if mounts are ruled out.

what is the fluid maintenance history, how do level and condition look. tss and oss sensor issues are common of course for this MY. but try a tube or two anyway of lubegard shudder fixx if the fluid looks good. won't hurt anything. if the issue goes away, it is definitely the torque converter. i am not looking at engine right now due to the issue carrying over. tcm programming should be the same. throttle body and maf sensor i expect were cleaned when engine was replaced, may be due again.

check transmission PID data, could be the torque converter. you can take O/D off and see if it goes away.

too much oil can blow seals over time, and cause excess oil vapors to end up in the combustion chamber for sure. should be able to pump out the excess using the dipstick tube as an entryway. you do have to wait 15 minutes after engine shutoff to check oil level.

@2015Edge2015 what mileage on your vehicle? sorry if i missed it in this thread ... if under 100K, or if just out of the powertrain warranty period, you can work with ford corporate to at least get part of the cost reimbursed. there might be law firms out there that will mediate for you as well.

sorry ... did not see the date on this post before i replied ... ------------------------- thru the fuel is fine, very mild compared to an induction service which directly hits the carbon in the manifold and backs of intake valves. wouldnt worry about this way of trying to clean stuff out. there ARE pro induction services of course from BG and Valvoline if you are interested in them down the road. you can have them borescope the valves if you would like to know the facts on how your sport is doing. but without a catchcan, it is almost a certainty that there will likely be carbon buildup (typically soft variety) - typical symptom is mainly rough idling, MAYbe a small drop in mpg, and a small amount of knock.

you may actually need to replace the module, they do fail from time to time. usually it is the RKE module not the antennas at fault. every time a new battery is installed the battery management system has to be reset so it can recognize the new battery and charge it appropriately.

this harness appears to be a weak point in the system. others have reported this issue as well. glad you found and resolved it.

gapping is a completely unneeded service, i would avoid. just look up NGK's site and their recommendations on gapping the plugs. with copper electrodes it was much easier. with platinum, still safe. more modern materials and center electrode designs, you need a professional gapping tool to do it properly. if you have an ecoboost, yes, the .001 / 0.002 differences from spec are magnified due to the already small gap but still hardly a major concern.

from what i have seen over the years, going to a firmer suspension means new springs at the very least, OEM or not. moog cargo coils will work in place of OEM as well. since you are going to H&Rs anyway, might as well go in on them all around.

same basic procedure as for a transverse 3.5 ecoboost, as it too has the internal water pump. the longitudinal 3.5 has an external water pump. follow the MACT FORD EDGE series on YT for detailed steps, tricks, tips, etc. start with this one and follow the newer ones in sequence. also please subscribe to the channel if you like the videos. full playlist for this series

which vehicles/powertrains will this tune?

may need to reinitialize it. lot of computerization these days. try removing the batt terminal for a few minutes and see if that does it. otherwise may need to use forscan for windows w extended license OR schedule a dealer visit to fix it.

the feeling of neutral gear is usually the transmission range sensor going out. more common issues are the tss and oss sensor, which in early stages can also be "cured" by restarting the engine. if there is a jerk or a clunk when shifting into reverse, the solenoid body assembly could be the culprit. of course there were hardware issues too for this generation if you look through the TSBs here https://drive.google.com/drive/u/4/folders/1IKPvNZ8e9QHJYhw4C_kSDt0dsFXtM2oo really isn't effective to use gearing to keep brake dust off the wheels. choose better brake pads instead. transmission issues are much more costly than brake issues to fix (unless ABS is involved lol).

The KYB assemblies are getting a bit difficult to find, but should work well ... for at at least 60K miles or so. better yet, KYB struts + moog cargo coils or motorcraft coils + motorcraft strut mounts for a custom assembly that should hold up even longer. there is yet to be a better brand for the mounts than motorcraft for this platform.

i know the ford protect plan is available online for owners in the USA. other countries have to jump hoops, if available at other than the dealer. but yes, it does not matter where you bought it, just that it should pass inspection to qualify for the plan, typically $100 or so. you will see it all when you get a quote at the lombard site. not worth having any other plan. even when dealers offer "lifetime" warranties of their own, they generally are not as good as Ford's. just like mfrs that offer lifetime warranty on parts, but their parts dont work as well as ford's with the 2 yr/unlimited warranty, lol. if you can get a refund on the AVP plan and apply that to a Ford plan, i think it would be worth it. ford warranties have served me well over the years. max mileage you can get coverage for is 24K or so on your ride thru ford unfortunately. they have a rather hard limit right around 150k miles. how long would it take you to reach that mileage determines the exact length you sign up for. do you have the 3.5 or 2.0 engine in it? 3.5 should be fine with regular fluid maintenance. seems to well past the mileage most 2.0s of this gen let loose at, but ... check label on right side of valve cover near pass strut tower for which plant and what year the engine belongs to.

sorry to hear. IMO they have made the RDU weaker and weaker with progressive generations since 2011. they beefed up the PTU in 2015 and counted pennies on the RDU imho.

if i had to choose, i would say the filter is more important than the oil, given the relative parity among off the shelf oil brands these days. while there is a certification process for oil, there really isn't one for filters ... yet. as they say, with enough time, anything will be regulated lol. 6 months is a good interval for the MC filter, assuming not over 7500 miles - of NORMAL driving. if LA traffic is torture testing your Edge, move to a better filter, a 20K filter like the BOSS or the Fram ULTRA/Titanium can be changed on the second or even the third oil change (assuming avg mileage) and not break a sweat.

not sure an inspection is worth it unless they will certify the vehicle for warranty. the inspection is just an entry into the warranty process. it will not uncover everything that is/could go wrong in the near OR long term. i would recommend looking into the Ford Protect premiumcare coverage if you intend to keep the vehicle for a while. Flood, Zeigler, and Lombard are among the top online favorites. start here ... https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com