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Motorcraft filters have the ADBV at the top, which helps get oil faster into the engine than other filters do. Not sure if it is the superior construction or not. But in many cases, engines that rattle for 2-3 seconds on startup with non-MC filters will stop doing so with MC filters. https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/Oil_Filter_Cutaway_Comparison.pdf

Based on areas of high humidity, so best to check by VIN. Unfortunately the Ford owner site does not provide information on recalls considered completed. And really it should. This type of information should travel with the vehicle regardless of ownership.

which most likely means the tank has been replaced already. would have to check again if there were geographic restrictions that might have excluded your Edge from the recall, though. A dealer or Ford would ultimately provide the best verification. These things go by specific ID (in this case VIN), not a general identifier (such as model year). So some 2009's could have been affected, and others not.

Brands do matter, as in their philosophical approach to creating synthetic oil. They do tend to do far better than conventional or synthetic blends, especially when people use the IOLM to mind their oil change intervals. Synthetic blend is pure marketing. Either you should choose conventional or synthetic. No tweeners. Arguing over a few bucks for 5 quarts of synthetic oil from Walmart, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Castrol is pretty pointless. They will usually go the distance for at least 6 months/5,000 miles with no worries. Some breakdown is to be expected after one of those two conditions occurs, with any type of oil. If you don't overextend oil change intervals, I would say, follow the KISS philosophy. Use the API rated oil spec'd for your vehicle, full synthetic is preferred but not necessary. Pennzoil makes a stout conventional oil with lots of additives and a high TBN. This helps overcome the weakness of conventional base stocks, as additives are depleted first. With synthetics, base stocks are stronger, so they don't need as many additives to meet the same spec. If you look at Euro oils, practically NO additives! Tough emission standards etc. But Euro-spec oils are not what I could consider extended interval oils, for that very reason. But they do their job well ... within that 6mo/5K spec, no doubt. I don't know of any quality filter made without an ADBV valve. The position of the valve has proven critical on Ford engines, at least ones using variable timing. The quicker the flow of oil, the less likely timing chain wear will occur, etc.

typically a large grommet in the brake booster area under the windshield cowling. might be something useful on the pass side under the PCM connectors as well, but IIRC those tend to be smaller. Because power runs from the BJB to the BCM via the driverside grommet, that one tends to have more room, but you need to seal it properly afterwards whichever one you go with.

pretty cool stuff. finally!

owner.ford.com + your VIN will show you relevant outstanding Field Service Actions for your vehicle. You can ask any Ford dealer also, or Ford Customer Service directly.

It will get better mpg the more highway it sees LOL. But with good habits, you can easily eke out more than the rated mpg for sure. Have no problems doing it on my 07, I don't see why a 17 would be any different in that regard. I have found little to no reason to use 0W20 oil either in case you were considering it. 5W20 works great with the 3.5 ... And thank you for your service!

Welcome to the community!

Track engine hours, not miles. Once you have a correlation, you will have the optimum OCI for your vehicle.

Welcome and congrats! Toyotas come with their own problems, LOL. Key to fixing worry is prevention with maintenance. Specifically, keeping fluids changed well before Ford says to. And Gen 2 PTUs now come with drain plugs. So changing fluid is easier than ever.

We did just have a 2016 that has to have the steering gear replaced. Here are the symptoms in the owner's exact words: "About 2 weeks ago, I started hearing a rubbing noise when turning the wheel to the left. I waited about 2 days before calling the dealership, but they're always booked out 10-14 days. Within 4 days of the initial onset of the left turn rubbing, it started rubbing when I turned the wheel to the right. The rubbing noise was really the only symptom I got, but it was very loud after a week...and it happened every single time I turned the wheel. " Probably not the same issue as in this thread, but thought I would add it anyway, just in case it is happening, just not noticed.

I would not go by physical age, but rather the CCA status. So have that checked first. Once eliminated, possibly the shift switch is at fault, or may be something else entirely.

Agreed on your thoughts. Possibly a new battery is required? How old is the current battery?

Call up Ford Customer Service. Can't hurt to ask, especially if you have service records from the previous service/recall. Ford should have recall/CSP data on their systems, but I have always believed in independent documentation

Seems to be mirror motor related, if only one is involved, then you need to check the wiring/connectors for that one. If both are involved, then you have to go further back and look for a common source. Hopefully not the BCM. B2223 Mirror Driver Drive Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2224 Mirror Passenger Drive Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2312 Mirror Passenger Horizontal Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2314 Mirror Passenger Horizontal Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2316 Mirror Passenger Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2318 Mirror Passenger Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2320 Mirror Driver Horizontal Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2322 Mirror Driver Horizontal Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2324 Mirror Driver Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Failure On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 . B2326 Mirror Driver Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand and Continuous REFER to Section 501-09 .

Aftermarket as in performance, aesthetics, or ...?

Social media (@FordService) might be the next best bet. Don't know any insider info ...

Welcome and congrats, HotDowge! Addressing #3, no extended break-in required. But first oil change, as with N/A engines, is recommended within the first 1-3000 miles. After that you can choose to trust the IOLM if you like. And highly recommend only using full synthetic with boosted engines, more important than with N/A engines. Keeps the engine cleaner, running smoother over the longterm.

Willkommen! Ja, es ist überfällig für den ERSTEN Ölwechsel. Ford sagt Ihnen, dass kein Einbruch erforderlich ist, aber ein Einbruch ist ein echtes Phänomen. Daher ist es am besten, den Ölwechsel so schnell wie möglich durchzuführen, um diese Verschleißmetalle aus dem Motor zu bekommen. Wenn ich es wäre, hätte ich tatsächlich das Öl analysieren lassen, um zu sehen, wie viel zirkuliert! Blackstone Labs oder ein ähnliches Labor können die Analyse durchführen. Welches Modelljahr ist dein Edge? Wie viel fährst du? Der Akku ist möglicherweise schwach oder nicht ausreichend aufgeladen. Wenn Sie das Fahrzeug nicht zu viel fahren, schauen Sie in ein Batterietender, um es nachzufüllen. * Thanks go to translate.google.com LOL. I can't really speak German, obviously. Maybe the forum can add the translate feature like on FB?

Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Blackvue. Regarding the battery: Are there any other accessories hotwired to the battery, or always on, in addition to the Blackvue? Did you allow time for the vehicle to learn the new battery? Typically letting the vehicle sit for 8+ hours undisturbed with all accessories off/disconnected is sufficient. SOMEtimes you actually have to reset the BMS manually. Do you drive enough to recharge the battery? Are you keeping track of charging behavior? I.E., is the alternator keeping up with the charge requirements? I would speak with Blackvue and see what the problem might be. If the wiring is doublechecked, then there should not be such a huge draw on the battery. BUT an AGM battery can handle it much better than an SLA battery ... as long as the vehicle sees enough drive time to fully recharge the battery. That is the key. I would get a Solar BA7 or BA9 and verify the condition of the battery and the alternator. Easy enough to test if the new cam is the cause for the V draw, pull the related fuse. HTH. Aside, copied from the linked NEO battery page: Maybe just get a lithium jump pack instead? Much cheaper these days. I buy 20Ah jump packs from Amazon, you can check reviews for what you suits you. They have started coming out with direct 12V outlets these days, some even with a 12V to socket adapter included in the package. https://smile.amazon.com/BASAF-Starter-Portable-Battery-Booster/dp/B07F1QJNB9/ https://everydaycalculation.com/kwh-ah.php

Look for Preston Royce's video on how to remove the front bumper on a 2011-14 Edge. The first one I ever saw on YT/on this forum.

If not using Motorcraft parts here, you should be. Aftermarket parts tend to kick the bucket much sooner, sadly. Yes, heavier wheels do take a toll, but shouldn't be THAT hard on the parts. The same tie rod part number for every trim level on the Edge of that generation.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/auto-parts/2015/ford/edge/se-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/electrical-cat/keyless-entry-components-scat https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-keyless-entry-keypad-es7z14a626a/

Darkside indeed LOL. Welcome and congrats! Got pics? ?