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Expect about 1/2 trans fluid capacity (rest remains in torque converter). So between 5-6 quarts, depending on how long you let it drain, whether vehicle is on level ground, etc.

Are the tires directional by any chance? Could the tires be mis-installed? I would get alignment verified by an independent shop, unless this is a known good Ford dealership for alignments. I assume they road-balanced and everything. On the gen 1.5, abnormal pulls like this, to the left or "mysterious", were caused either by a subframe misalignment or faulty lower control arms. Worth checking.

No worries. Those are now old wives tales, for engines predating the ones in the Edge/MKX. If you are worried, change the oil/oil filter at short intervals a couple of times, then resume normal intervals. That will do the trick! Synthetic does tend to be more "cleansing", so if you want insurance, do this.

Just like engine coolant, transmission fluid is not allowed to circulate out to the radiator/trans cooler until it reaches a certain temperature. 80F I believe. The bypass valve, basically a thermostat, is the gateway to achieving that goal. Yes, fill is thru the dipstick. OEM fluid is usually available at the major parts stores, yes. Or via Amazon or RockAuto online.

On the block, in the area between the alternator and the oil filter. Can be difficult to manage with one person due to location, but not impossible.

Colorful history there, mwilson! Hope the ST fares a tiny bit better!

Good question, never had anyone actually replace the bolt seals (the blue ones in FelPro pic). Maybe put some WD40 on them or engine oil on them to remove/install? FEL-PRO VS50767R {#VS50490} Info w/Grommets & Spark plug tube seals; PermaDry molded rubber Gaskets. incl.

Sorry to hear your MKX is having problems. usually overheating is due to failed fans, failed water pump, and failed thermostat, in that order. Very rarely, the CHT sensor will be involved. 210F is when the fans come on in the 2007-10 MYs. Between 192-210F is passive cooling through the radiator. The PCM uses data from the CHT sensor to turn on the fan. If the A/C is activated, both fans will run, regardless of coolant temperature. It is one way to bring down temps even tho it hurts mpg. How do you know the ECT temp is accurate? Are you comparing OBD data to actual infrared temp sensor data, or ...?

Firewall side or radiator side? What is the triggering issue for the change? Probably a good time to change the VCT solenoid also if any oil is seeping there.

Got any pics to share?

wow that is some low mileage. is it an ecoboost or the 3.5 engine? has the oil been changed yet? is your driving highway/mixed/city? is the battery original to the car? Trying to get a feel as to where the Edge might be in terms of maintenance to decide what to troubleshoot. South Main (great YT channel) video on the codes you mentioned P0013 is more troublesome https://www.obd-codes.com/p0013 " A code P0013 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty oil control valve (OCV) Open or short in the OCV / solenoid valve Damaged computer (PCM)" PART NUMBER PART NAME AT4Z-6M280-A VCT Solenoid – Left Side Exhaust Or Right Side Intake AT4Z-6M280-C VCT Solenoid – Right Side Exhaust AT4Z-6M280-B VCT Solenoid – Left Side Intake BR3Z-6C535-A Seal – VCT Cover DTC P0030, P0036, P0053, P0054, P0135, or P0141.pdf TSB 16-0093_3.5L-ILLUMINATED MIL-DTC P0011, P0015, P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019, P0021 ANDOR P0025-UNDER 3200KM (2000 MILES).pdf

3x is the requirement in the factory manual. 4x is about the most practical to do a near complete exchange. You have to get the torque converter working to get the fluid pumped out of the TC. So a minimum of a couple of minutes in D while parked on level ground will let that happen. No need to drive. Parking brake engaged and foot on brake pedal during that time of course. Do not attempt on jacks or jackstands. Only all 4 on the ground, preferably wheels chocked too. Advise getting the fluid to at least 100F or so before the first drain/fill to help keep contaminants in suspension, but alao to open the bypass valve. Between 100F and 180F is ideal so the bypass valve is open the whole time you are doing the drain/fills. As mentioned, you can also do a single drain/fill at 3 (or 4) successive oil changes. Will allow the detergents in the new fluid to do their thing in between, and time to assess the impact of new fluid. But done best if you are putting in the same brand of fluid as is in the trans atm. So if OEM, Motorcraft LV is the right choice for this "every oil change" process. While all LV license products SHOULD be compatible, IDK if it can be guaranteed. Your call to make though.

Ugh what a way to get introduced to Edge ownership! I would talk to Ford Customer Service directly if I were you, if you can't find a cooperative dealership first. Do you know when your Edge was built? And, welcome to the community!

Very nice & congrats! Welcome to the community First Ford?

Do you know if they performed a regular 4 corner bleed or if they bled the HCU. With the HCU, apparently you have to engage/disengage the parking brake a few times during the process (gen 1.5 at least).

Since Xtra has already piled on the cheer, I will say simply, WELCOME

^^^ X2. Good luck, hope the Edge stays fixed

Very strange to hear of this response from a company like Blackvue. Could be a holiday season thing too, I have noticed a pickup in such attitude lately. Is the alternator supplying constant 14.41V or does it vary at all? I assume you are referencing output at highway/cruising speed? The distances you drive - also assuming mostly highway. Around here going 10 miles in 50 minutes in rush hour is not uncommon LOL.

Hoo Boy-O!

Got my letter, now to call a cooperative dealership.

Hmmm ... good points all. Enough changes with Gen 2 that these too need researching. But the oil extractor/Fumoto idea works very well for 2007-14. Have to wonder why such an issue to pull oil from the top on a Gen 2 (Sport). Perhaps they have some type of J hook device like Toyota has on their trans pans.

Welcome aboard, and congrats on the new ride!

Glad to hear no one got hurt! Having the battery checked first (CCAs) is a good idea with any electrical glitches. Next up is checking and possibly replacing the throttle body, a problem child in primarily the 2011MY. But I think battery is far more likely. And there is a small chance the park detect switch needs to be replaced. Ford has a TSB on it, and there is an independent DIY HOWTO on this forum as well. Do you have warranty at all? Did the vehicle go through heavy rain/flooded areas/high pressure car washes prior to this event? Thinking of the possibility of wet wiring or even possibly water intrusion into the bcm/sjb (passenger compartment fuse panel area).

If you really don't want to get messy, get an extractor like the Pela and do it from up top. If you are sending oil in for analysis, tho, you will want to drain oil the ole fashioned way, with or without a Fumoto valve installed.