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Tuning essentially shifts maintenance schedules to the special operating conditions category. Other than that, you should be fine. LME tunes with safety/reliability in mind. Good to have new plugs of course, but also transmission, coolant, PTU/RDU fluids at a minimum.

A rare situation, but the thermostat housing has been known to rot out. You would not see it if you were not looking for it. Have not had the crossover/inlet pipe fail yet, but anything is possible. If it IS the thermostat housing, it is cheaper to go aftermarket (new) or try to find a used one on eBay / car-part.com. New OEM is VERY expensive.

The PTU does have both drain and fill plugs. A bit awkward to get to the plugs, but can be done without removing any exhaust components.

I do believe you have to remove the lower intake manifold (?) to get to the inlet/crossover pipe. Also have to take off the thermostat housing and drain the coolant. No idea on book time, but I would think in the range of 4-5 hours, given the bloat built into book time.

Very nice! Tho the brake shields could use a nicer finish

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Not normal, but i guess it depends which version of the tune you are referring to. Sometimes they have had to adjust tunes for cold weather conditions (in the past), so there is a little room for speculation First thing to check is always the condition of your vehicle. Could it be the trans fluid level is low? The MAP (or MAF) sensors clean as well as their connectors? Are you using good fuel? Are your tires and road surfaces up to the task? Basic stuff. Once that has been eliminated, move to addressing possible tune-related issues.

I would consider saving the file to a labeled reliable USB device and marking the contents, then socking away with your critical assets. Probably overkill, but you want it to be easily available to you, in case you decide to sell the vehicle, or you have to replace the PCM, etc. It is a safety measure, insurance. Hope you don't need it, but have it if you do

Can you link a post/thread with the metal oil pan replacement, info, onyxbfly? I am only finding the plastic pans available for f150/edge, no metal pans yet. TIA.

Options are usually economy and performance tunes in the octane grade of your choice - 87, 89,91,93 etc. All tunes will improve transmission behavior. Economy tunes do cut back a little on power, while delivering, in my case 10-15% better fuel economy (2010 fusion sport). I do not recommend economy tunes for enthusiasts tho The performance tunes are better suited for them.

A wait&see process, maybe K&N will respond with the data requested by chefd. If they have indeed pulled a Fram on us, it would be good to know. as far as aftermarket, why not? isn't that the boon of capitalism?

The DTxxxxx part is The vehicle options this part fits: Production Date: 07/2010-05/2012 Really for MY2011+. But it MAY fit or MAY NOT. Have not seen a direct comparison to earlier designs.

Congrats, looking forward to further updates!

Welcome aboard!

You will have to buy plugs & gaskets separately for 2011+ applications. Still a HUGE savings over individual coil pricing. Plugs & gaskets fit 2007-10 since this kit originated out of the TSBs for the plug/coil/PCM fiasco.

Sounds like a loose or intermittent connection to me. I would check the latch, see if it is dirty or rusty, clean it up, liberally apply dielectric grease and see if that is good enough to resolve the situation. If not, then you will likely need to remove the hatch quarter paneling for inspection, and verify that the battery has good cold cranking amps (CCAs).

WooHoo! It's gonna BREATHE! And go full stealth

Would love to seem some Blackstone data once in a while to figure out if the advice being doled out by any of us has helped make a difference. Gives a uniform basis for comparison

Tire or wheel or lug nut torque ... any of these can cause these issues. If it moves with tire rotation at least it is isolated to that tire/wheel combo. Lug nut overtorquing is still a common issue. Or they undertorqued if they used 2007-14 specs.

What year Sport did you drive? Also a 15, or an 18, or ... If anything it should pull to the right, that is how these vehicles are designed, for U.S. roads anyway. Pulling to the left on a wellpaved road under acceleration or not, is not normal in my book. But if it is predictable in behavior, at least you know when to hang on to the wheel. I would have had them align on their machine anyway (roadforce balance, even laser tracking if they have it), to see if their systems say any different. I did not think of this, but since Gen 2 has electric assist steering (not hydraulic), it could be a software calibration issue. I know you are not seeing the "weird steering wheel upside down" issue, but maybe have them update the SECM / SCCM and see? Worth a shot. Did you buy the Edge brand new? Any notations in the Carfax history re accidents? The absence of vibrations points away from the wheel/tire as possibility.

Yeah, those studs on Ford exhaust systems are truly "lifetime" even if the fluids aren't LOL. Post a sound clip or two when you get a chance. Startup, driveaway, acceleration, etc. whatever you can safely

At least you are trying to take care of your ride! Mine is lucky if it sees a regular ontime carwash (touchless of course). Zep Citrus + Dawn 50/50 pretreat, car wash with full options (undercarriage, RainX or Simoniz, etc). Followed by a MiFi patdown, and finally a coat or two of Meguiar's QuikWax. Not much at all, LOL.