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WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Edge Platinum Member
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Everything posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

  1. Might just want to zip tie it with a good quality zip tie. Has worked for macbwt LOL.
  2. Why not change the throttle body yourself? It is very easy.
  3. Welcome! How is the battery, have you tested the CCA's on it? Did you try reinitializing the liftgate (I assume power liftgate?)? Replace the 2 struts as well? There may indeed be a wiring issue, which you would have to remove the trim panel again to check.
  4. Good to be back in business But there is no filter except the solenoid body filter that is replaceable during a service such as this. Please post a copy of the invoice (redacted) if it's ok.
  5. Do you know if the IOLM was reset? If not, it may be way too early to change the oil out. What are your driving conditions? City, mixed, or highway? I would think 2,800 miles after the trip is just fine on any oil, as long as it did not take you 6 months to accumulate those 1,000 miles. If you have an ecoboost engine, definitely change the oil when you get back.
  6. 2 years is nothing to sneeze at, and thanks for following up!
  7. As long as droplets are not forming, it is indeed considered normal, as stated in the Owner's Manual. Welcome!
  8. Ask him if he put the Edge in Neutral before starting work. The range sensor pin may be out of position with the manual control valve in the valve body. Hopefully as simple as that. I don't think you can mess up/exchange the sensors, but anything's possible LOL.
  9. PM him and/or post questions in his thread directly. Not wrap related, but it is a thread he started
  10. A "glitch" is usually due to a failing sensor (one of 3 in the main control panel), or solenoid in the solenoid body assembly. Have your mechanic check the SBA's electrical properties, make sure each solenoid has a resistance of under 5 ohms, etc. If the work has not been done already. Also advisable to change the solenoid body filter at the same time, but a good cleaning should suffice if the fluid is clean.
  11. It is a safety issue but hardly a common issue. You can try working with Ford Customer Service directly, seeing if they will cover all or part of the cost. And remember, you will catch more flies with honey than vinegar Unfortunately, oddball faults happen, and having to work through the process is part of car ownership I would get it repaired, hold on to the bill, and work with Ford.
  12. There are TSBs for the door ajar issue, but no recalls on the Edge that I know of for Gen 1.5 ...? TSB 14-0083 Door Ajar Lamp Remains Illuminated with Doors Closed SB-10056292-8158.pdf
  13. Only in defrost or are there problems in other modes as well - heat, ac, etc. If only in defrost, you may have mode door problems, very rare, but it happens. Manual climate control or dual zone/electronic?
  14. The solitary pic in the original post is not working 4 me ...
  15. Except for that fake turbo sound, it was a fun watch
  16. How many miles on your Edge, and what maintenance has been done so far? Is their oil in the intake tubing between the airbox and the throttle body? 40+ minutes for a full reset, including clearing codes. How long did you have the cable disconnected? Did you use OEM Ford parts to replace the pipe and solenoids? Did you see any damage to the canister at the time you replaced the CV solenoid? Oddball Q, but is the battery healthy?
  17. Personal choice I suppose Regular maintenance remains the key.
  18. dielectric grease works best for the vista roof, dry lubricants/teflon will not last as long. as far as how the maintenance is done, you can see in detail here
  19. Welcome and congrats! Pics? Cannot say enough about replacing fluids regularly with the 2.0. It really really loves fresh engine oil and transmission fluid. Seafoam is fine as long as the user has experience with it. But you will need to change the engine oil soon after, do not leave the dirty oil in there. If there is a lot of carbon buildup on the intake valves, it can be a problem as that carbon can chunk off and destroy the turbo. With less than 40K miles on it, you are likely ok.
  20. LONG post and surely incomplete, but I hope this helps and does not deter your quest ... Start with looking at recalls and TSBs for any vehicle you do narrow down. Summary information is available at the NHTSA site https://www.nhtsa.gov/ and here https://oemdtc.com For recalls and customer satisfaction programs, also coupons for service and parts, using your VIN https://owner.ford.com Source of used parts: http://car-part.com/ new OEM parts that are "obsolete" can be obtained via a dealership or if you know the part number https://www.rearcounter.com/ Other new parts sources are RockAuto, eBay, and Amazon. Dealshopping at online dealer websites can also yield good results. Start at parts.ford.com, different dealers will have different pricing, but some of the best include: https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/ https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/ford/edge https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/ High mileage on the Edge is not an issue. The issue is maintenance intervals. The maintenance should be a] documented, and b] more rigorous than Ford specifications, especially for fluids - transmission, coolant, power steering, PTU/RDU (if applicable). Plan on replacing all fluids, spark plugs, air filter, cabin air filter once you purchase. Also if the vehicle has a Vista roof, it should have been cleaned and greased AT LEAST annually with the correct lubricant. Generally recommended to get as new a vehicle within a generation as possible - more kinks have been worked, each generation will introduce its' own oddities - unavoidable. Definitely consider the "twin" Lincoln MKX, it is a very nice ride. And usually Lincoln dealers are better to work with as well, if you prefer dealer servicing. Gen 1 (2007-10) - powertrain mostly, some issues with wheel bearings (rear ones especially) Gen 1.5 (2011-14) - mostly electronics - APIM/stereo entertainment system/Sync2, door latch/ajar, shift switch, etc. - mostly within the realm of DIY'rs; brake booster, throttle body; rear brake calipers are more prone to seizing if not lubed/greased regularly, as they double as emergency/parking brake units. So the calipers will sit locked in to the rotors for extended periods of time while the vehicle is not being driven. Gen 2 (2015-18) - mostly seal-related on the body, for the 2.7L Ecoboost/Sport - also the oil pan seal, rarely the torque converter housing seal Gen 2.5 (2019+) Yes, with the AWD, you may inherit someone else's problems. Even if it worked fine for them, their driving style/conditions may not match your son's. Panoramic/Vista Roof/BAMR plagues all generations due to lack of maintenance, and sometimes faults in the glass that cause it to shatter spontaneously. Be sure to have glass insurance of your own if you buy something with it. If your son is handy/a DIY'r, regular maintenance on the Edge is generally quite straightforward. The most involved jobs are water pump/timing chain on the 3.5/3.7, and turbo replacement on the 2.0L Ecoboosts. Water pump/timing chain - 14 hours (more for rookies) - parts (OEM) will run about $6-700 PTU - 4 hours + (parts about $700) Transmission TSS/OSS sensors (3.5/3.7) - 4 hours + (OEM parts about $100) Turbo replacement (2.0) - not sure on hours - turbo is about $650 Panoramic/Vista Roof/BAMR - not sure on hours, tho parts alone can come to $3,000. Might be able to get cheaper at Junkyards if need be. Radiator fans - $250 or so OEM, plus literally 9 minutes of labor if you watch this video And always consider purchasing a Ford warranty, even if just for powertrain. I like peace of mind, so I got PremiumCare on my CPO 2007 Edge, and it has worked out great. Sample the pricing here https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/ Consider the cost of items such as new tires, brakes, etc. Check closely for signs of rust. The euphoria of "new" car buying can make you overlook many things.
  21. Most common problems are due to the fuel filler neck or the purge valve. Try cleaning the fuel filler neck as demonstrated by FordTechMakuloco on YouTube first. If that does not fix it, check vacuum on the EVAP purge valve (located at the firewall). Those are the 2 easy DIY items related to this problem.
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