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WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Edge Platinum Member
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Everything posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

  1. Which engine do you have? 2.0/2.7/3.5?
  2. Yes there should be. If it is not there, it has been allowing contaminants INTO the PTU all this time, as well as allowing fluid to leak out. Good time to check and replace the fluid. As to the vent, you will likely have to get a replacement from the dealer, or source it from eBay or a junkyard. I think this is the part number, but not 100% BB5Z-4N206-A
  3. P0299 is a common code on the 2.0s unfortunately. Boils down to a broken wastegate linkage internal to the turbo. I have heard it can be fixed, but no details on that. So a replacement is what you would be looking at.
  4. Welcome, congrats on a very nice ride!
  5. Big Blue! Congrats on the new ride, may many happy journeys lie ahead!
  6. Texas car, folks! At least won't have to worry about rust and salt
  7. You can choose to do it the way you want to do it. The very first fluid change will have breakin materials in there. So why not complete the 3x-4x round of drain/fills and be set for 5 yrs or 60K whichever comes first. Mercon LV naturally "browns" with age, unlike Mercon V. FordTechMakuloco has a video on YT explaining this.
  8. Welcome, do not see that color very often White Platinum, right? Congrats on the new ride!
  9. I don't see anything specifically for the Edge, but in the case of 2013-14 MYs (Focus, Fusion, Escape, MKZ), the issue was oil migration from the VVT solenoids thru the engine wiring harness to the catalyst monitor. The fix is to replace the solenoids, wiring harness, and CMS. If that is not the case, the 3.5L engines have a recalibration fix, might look into that here as well. Did you have any starting issues after fillup? That is usually a purge valve issue on other engines in the Ford family.
  10. Welcome! How many miles on your Edge, and do you have chrome clad wheels? First thing to eliminate is tires & wheels. Examine carefully for lost wheel weights, damaged/bent/cracked wheel, improper lug nut torque, and tire wear/tread separation. If all looks good, rotate tires front to rear and see if the shaking continues abated. Second, inspect the suspension and steering for worn components, specifically bushings. Control arms/ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links/bushings, etc.
  11. Once you toss the Ford concept of "lifetime" out the window, you will notice your vehicle's engine and transmission are considerably better behaved.
  12. Try driving with O/D turned off. If this reduces or eliminates the issue, you are looking at torque converter replacement. I am leaning this way because you mention tach vacillation.
  13. Ford is having real problems with their seals since the introduction of Gen 2. They need to put some funds into engineering these better.
  14. That is just a diagnostic routine, but yes, he was testing the VCT solenoid. The fix would be to replace the solenoid. But I think he was taking the complete picture into consideration when he recommended replacing the engine. Primarily due to low oil and rattling while driving. No telling what internal parts have failed, or will fail shortly down the road. The vehicle should not be driven while this sound is present. How long did you have on this oil? Time & miles since the oil change? Do you know what oil and filter were used when the oil was changed? Draining the oil first would have revealed if the oil has thickened. Now that it is topped off, you will have to send a sample to a testing lab such as Blackstone Laboratories to see if any internal damage has been done. If the analysis turns out good, then you still have a choice between replacing the timing components and replacing the engine. I would replace the engine with a used one, update the timing components and water pump, and go about my merry way. Check engine lights indicate major problems, they will not indicate problems in progress. For that you have to regularly inspect your vehicle, as well as scan the PCM for codes.
  15. I would go to another dealer then. TSBs have been issued to update the cluster before, so this should not be unfamiliar territory. Try a Lincoln (standalone) dealer if available, if Ford dealers do not pan out. Maybe talk to the shop foreman directly, you are more likely to get a straightup answer from him/her than the service advisor.
  16. 4600??? wow, you really should check out car-part.com for yourelf and see the plethora of used engines available. Even with labor it should not cost more than about $2,500 or so! How long has the rattling sound been going on? Rattling noises while driving is your main issue. It is possible the VCT solenoids and or timing chains and or cam position sensors and or cam phasers are damaged and not working correctly. You would have to run diagnostics to figure it out, but with the rattling and the oil level being so low, a replacement engine is your best bet.
  17. Sounds to me like a recalibration of the cluster would be enough, since it does coincide with battery issues.
  18. Rockauto.com probably ships to your area. Some U.S. based Ford dealers do as well. Benny at LevittownFordSuperCenter.com can certainly assist with that if you cannot order directly off their website. Throttle bodies for Gen 1.5 are relatively cheap compared to those for Gen 1, so you are in "luck". They are not exchangeable between the Gens. https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=AT4Z9E926B https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-throttle-body-at4z9e926b Levittown Ford Parts 980 S. Broadway Hicksville, New York, 11801 877-460-9497
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