WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Not at all. But you may need to inspect the lower arms to see if they are worn. I believe there is a cam adjustment bolt that can be checked and changed as needed, but am not familiar with that setup. Camber Adjustment — Rear NOTICE: Before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the suspension must be at the bushing fastener tightening position or incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur. NOTE: When making rear alignment adjustments, it is important to know that when adjustments are made to the rear camber the rear toe setting will be affected. Also when adjusting the rear toe the rear camber setting will be affected. It will be necessary to check the rear toe whenever rear camber adjustments are made and to check the rear camber whenever rear toe adjustments are made. Using alignment equipment and the manufacturer's instructions, measure the rear camber. Loosen the lower arm cam bolt. Rotate the camber adjustment bolt until the camber setting is within specifications. NOTICE: Before tightening any suspension bushing fasteners, the weight of the vehicle must be resting on the wheels and tires or incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur. NOTE: Do not allow the camber cam adjuster to rotate while tightening the bolt. Tighten the lower arm cam bolt to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft). Recheck the rear camber and toe. Adjust as necessary.

Aloha!

Sometimes a simple swapout of the control module will make the aftermarket fans work.

I think these are the SSMs that apply https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZX3UMZ3aClkTmkl6hXqgc9JZTM6pOuu4 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KV1uxea5yI_0nJyiviH9JFnKo2MBQe1r

The new transmission is still unproven, might be a while before the limits are tested (or not ) ... Having the block built out tho should allow good power levels with less stress, one hopes ... Is the block still open-deck?

Faster, faster! LOL

Assuming the oil level is holding steady, replacing the switch is the next step, short of actually putting a gauge on the port.

Welcome, and congrats! Post pics of your Mustang, and Edge 27K Euros is a pretty nice price!

Looking for performance and appearance modifications for your Gen 2 Edge? The DEFINITIVE thread

How to add underhood lighting - Gen 2 + (may work for earlier Gens also). Thanks, Gadgetjq!

The basic niceties that Ford forgot

N/M

Does he have graphs to compare where the difference starts manifesting? Is it all through the range, or after 2500 rpm, or ...? Kinda like dyno sheets 22% is a LOT.

The upgraded turbos are definitely worth it!

more than likely turns up boost levels, like the JMS BoostMax https://www.jmschip.com/boostmax

Best I can do right now https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/filter-assy-fuel-7815595-1 So it should be pretty close to the fuel tank? Follow the fuel lines coming out of the tank - best chance to find it

What engine do you have in your gen 2? We have not been able to locate the inline fuel filter although FordParts.com shows it as being somewhere along the fuel lines/frame rails on the Sport.

Longterm, not a good idea to leave the screen in place as a lot of c*** will make its way into the engine. Better served by extending the snorkel to the signature light/foglamp area, that WILL enhance performance, not by a lot, but possibly shave a tenth off the 1/4 time. I assume the airbox is sealed from the engine bay, whether to the hood or in OEM fashion. Might want to play with insulating the inside. If you want to improve airflow, you can dimple the inside of the custom intake (like a golf ball) as well as the throttle body/plate. True duals to the turbos are definitely a plus, feeding more air plus some "improvement" in sound. Hard pipes would look nicer, but not necessary since not on the boost side. A dropin K&N/K&N-style filter will likely be all the improvement you need as far as the filter is concerned. Of course it does not add bling to the engine bay

Does the starter turn over and the engine does not? Or does the starter just click? How old is the battery? Have you checked the Cold Cranking Amps? Heat is a battery killer.

Welcome, sweet ride!

yes, and it is a good time to service it while the engine is out of the vehicle. Behind the main cover/timing cover. You can youtube videos that show how it is laid out.

Timing system parts + water pump should be replaced on the "new" engine. Chains, tensioners, and solenoids. No, it will not affect the transmission. But it is a good time to do a fluid exchange on the transmission as well. I would also recommend changing out the TSS/OSS sensors and putting in a new solenoid body filter, since access is super easy with the transmission out of the engine bay, but you can do that as/when needed. The internal water pump is a rather well known issue on the 3.5/3.7 series engines, unfortunately. Keep the coolant changed, and use high quality engine oil (any full synthetic you see on Walmart shelves) regularly to keep the "new" engine running for a long time.

Fuel pump is in-tank. You have to drop the fuel tank to replace it.

Firewall side 1-2-3 Radiator side 4-5-6 Left to right, looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle.

Only the 2007 model year had an electrically heated pcv valve, so for your 2008, you need the nonheated version. The nonheated one is EV257, the heated one is EV261.