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Usually the CV joint in the axle is to blame for ticking noises. How many miles on your 2015?

Welcome, Dale! Congrats on your new ST, look up the aftermarket parts thread for the Gen 2 Sport / 2.7L. A lot of the mods might apply to your ST as well.

Will/should cost FAR less than that. Any competent repair facility can take care of it for under $600. Let's hope Ford will assist tho.

Is the aim on your headlights accurate? That's where I would start. Try DiodeDynamics.com for a properly designed LED offering.

If you are past 150K miles, no. Otherwise, yes.

I wish he were still active on this forum. Came up with some cool stuff.

A very common problem with Gen 1.5 vehicles is a failing Evap Purge Valve which will cause such symptoms. I would vacuum test it first. Yes, fuel pumps and associated parts fail, but are LOW on the list. and

Oooooooooo the good ole days of 'glassin'! Nice work!

For you Gen 1 folks, have you tried out the service functions in Forscan Lite yet? Version 1.5+ ... I have had promising (albeit only a short time has passed) results with the ABS Bleed and the Transmission Adaptives Reset. Try out these functions with your ride, and let us know how it works out for you!

Want to wire up the shift paddles to the floor shifter on your Gen 1.5 (2011-14) Edge? Yes you can! Thanks, tmarsh and Gadgetjq! https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23453-shifter-handle/?do=findComment&comment=201760

I hereby approve some well-earned PTO for the hard work ^^^

Try and prep best as you can, que sera sera is always the rule of the day, but I hope no one gets sucked into these events.

Electronic Brake Distribution is the commonly given answer. So if your Edge sees more "action" the rears come into play more often. Also the rears on 2011+ serve as both brakes and parking brakes. 2007-10 had drum brake assemblies for the parking brakes. So there is more wear and tear for sure. But I think EBD is the most likely answer.

Rent a pro set of gauges from the parts store to verify charge is at correct levels. You should see a 40+F drop from ambient under most (except WOT) conditions if the system is correctly charged and the radiator fans are working correctly. The evap sensor is behind the dash, I think part of the heatercore/evaporator assembly, but not 100% on that. The pressure sensor/transducer is in the compressor to condenser discharge line, you will see an electrical plug on it. Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor contains a thermistor which receives a reference voltage from the dual-zone EATC or EMTC module. The thermistor then varies the resistance to the reference voltage based on the evaporator fin temperature. The resulting voltage is returned to the dual-zone EATC or EMTC module where it is interpreted as an evaporator fin temperature reading. The dual-zone EATC module or EMTC module maintains evaporator core temperature and prevents icing of the evaporator core. It does this by switching off the A/C request signal to the instrument cluster when the evaporator temperature sensor reading falls below acceptable levels, and by switching on the A/C request when the evaporator temperature rises above acceptable levels. The evaporator temperature sensor electrical connector is located outside of the heater core and evaporator core housing near the accelerator pedal, with the sensor pigtail leading into the housing to the sensor probe which is inserted between the evaporator core fins. The evaporator temperature sensor is not available as a separate component. To install a new evaporator temperature sensor, a new heater core and evaporator core housing must be installed.

Essentially the same from the 2009 MY onwards but of course emblem placement etc will be different for Gen 1 vs 1.5 https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-lift-gate-dt4z7840010a/

Ditto! California is definitely an "adventure" zone these days. Hope your leg is now up to speed as well.

Good question! I assume yes still spinning as Waldo said, since there is no electronic brain determining PTU-driveshaft connection, unlike in 2019. If the transmission is not in P or N, the driveshaft is always engaged. The only electronic connection 2007-18 is to the clutches in the ATC, so you can be confident the RDU is not in use. The PTU remains in full force, tho. You CAN remove the driveshaft completely to prevent that wasted effort. And quite a few people have done this, for months on end with no detrimental effect on the vehicle. You of course lose optimal handling capability, but if you stay out of extreme situations, should be much of an issue.

Sorry to hear about the accident, Jim, hope it was minor and did not affect the passengers, the exhaust or the AWD in any way.

WHERE the air comes from is a MODE door problem. What TEMP the air is, that is a blend door problem. That said, if neither of the calibration steps are not working, it could still be a control problem with the HVAC module and/or the APIM. If not, then you have to tear into the dash to replace the mode door(s) involved. Which setup do you have? The 4" screen or the 8" screen? Have you tried disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes? You could also pull the fuses for the controls for a few minutes. Might be enough to restore correct operation for a while.

If the leak is out the vent, that would be the best situation. Replacing the fluid hopefully is a 1-round effort, sometimes it takes a few rounds to have clean fluid coming back out. If the leak is from the PTU to axle/halfshaft seal, that is about 2 hrs work + parts. Either of these situations, you can escape relatively unscathed. As long as the fluid remains free of debris. The plug however may have fine metal shavings, which is most likely from the breakin process early on in the PTU's life. Normal.

Raining hard right now, hope for sunny & clear skies tomorrow, like yesterday was.

Kubicide, is this the KAM reset for the PCM or the adaptive tables for the TCM?

Nice writeup, thank you! Here is the Fan wiring PDF as requested Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

The connector should be at the front part (ATC) of the RDU, which looks like this. The connector is most likely on the top side.