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Could be an ABS issue. See if there are any codes set in the PCM, then try having the ABS bled.

SSM 46438 F150, Escape, MKC, Edge, Fusion, MKZ, MKX, MKT, Focus, Continental and Taurus -GTDI Ecoboost With DTCs P1013, P1015, And/Or P1016 Some 2016-2017 F150, Edge, MKX, Escape, Focus, MKC, Fusion, MKZ, Taurus and 2017 Continental vehicles equipped with 2.0L, 2.7L or 3.0L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) EcoBoost engines may exhibit Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) P1013, P1015 and/or P1016 stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Check turbocharger wastegate control hoses for water/ice restrictions or pinching at zip-tie on engine cam cover retainer (2.7L and 3.0L Only). If restriction is found on cam cover retainer, cut zip tie and clear DTCs. If water/ice restriction is found, drain hoses, reassemble and clear DTCs. If DTCs return, refer to workshop manual (WSM) or Powertrain Control Emissions Diagnosis (PCED) manual for normal diagnostics. Engineering is investigating the concern, monitor OASIS for further updates. For previous gen 2.0s, Some 2012-2013 Ford Edge and Explorer vehicles equipped with the 2.0L GTDI (gasoline turbocharged direct injection) engine may exhibit DTC P1015 or P1016. 1. Inspect all hoses routed to the turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid for disconnection or damage. Repair as needed. 2. If no hose problem is found, replace the turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid. Torque the two 8 mm retaining bolts to 90 in.-lbs. If equipped, remove the shield covering the filter and discard. The new turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid is available as P/N CB5Z-9E882-A.

scorpionking0102 Best to start a new thread and ask the question there. OR find an existing thread regarding the oil pan leak issue and post there.

The same procedure applies for 2007-14. No calibration needed. Are you getting the same DTCs afterwards? Tone ring/wheel speed sensor issues are starting to crop up on 2011-14 MYs, so you should get eyes on them and see if there is an issue.

Have you tried pulling the negative battery cable for a few minutes? it might reset the system and restore function. Getting to the driver side actuator is a bit of a pain as you have to scrunch yourself into the footwell. Passenger side is behind the glovebox, a different kind of pain LOL.

Always good to hear good things about an Edge Congrats on the new ride, and hope it serves you as faithfully as your 2012 did!

What is the mileage on your Edge? Maintenance history - coolant, transmission fluid, etc.? What engine, 2.0 or 3.5/3.7?

I hear it was an issue on the F150s also, but Ford issued a metal replacement pan as a fix there. I suppose it wouldn't be difficult to have one custom made for the Edge, but be nice for Ford to have done so.

Jeez I wonder how many other such "fixes" have been applied to unwary owners' vehicles ...

Sounds like a classic case of alternator meltdown, i.e. regulator death. Have the battery and alternator tested at an auto parts store with a digital tester. If the cables got THAT hot, I would suspect the insulation on them too. Check them over carefully, replace them if they look suspicious - melted, burn marks, etc.

No codes? Presumably a PCM and/or TCM calibration should be able to fix this type of issue.

Are you checking it per the owners manual? It should be checked when the fluid is at operating temperature, engine running, shifter in Park?

full tsb https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA

The message center provides a compass display and uses directional information sent from a compass module (integrated into the auto-dimming interior mirror).

You should first check to make sure the blower motor is working and not obstructed in any way. Same with the cabin air screen/filter. Common to get outside debris stuck in there over the years and jam it up. Easily seen after you remove the cabin air screen/filter.

Gen 1.5 is 2011-14 for the Edge. If you got the wrench light, it would have set a code in the PCM. If that code was P21xx then replacement of the throttle body is required. It is important you NOT restart the vehicle after getting that wrench light. Then the code will show up. If you restart it, the code clears and you may never see it.

Per Buck Newby's video, no calibration needed after SAS replacement

You can lookup the Sonnax ZIP Kit instructions, they will show where the bearings are supposed to go. As far as the piston, it should end up in the position as shown in the MACTFORDEDGE video below

Oh no! The two ugly problems with the 2.7 rearing their heads Hope the fixes hold ...

Sorry to hear about your eye injury, that is a tough one to get thru Glad you are OK, and out & about tho Congrats on the Q60, it was a good run with the Edge! If it has a VC engine, I hope you are factoring in an extended warranty. Fingers crossed, it proves to be a durable design. Infiniti has put out some nice vehicles over the years.

Howdy & Woo Hoo!

There isn't a low pressure switch that I know of, only a high pressure switch. It is mounted to the compressor-to-condensor discharge line on the condensor side IIRC. Did you check the charge with pro gauges? What was the pressure and the temperature at the time the pressure was measured?

These codes could be due to: cam position sensors vct solenoids cam phasers timing chain etc I suspect you need to open up the front/timing cover and do a complete timing set/water pump job. Might also want to look at used replacement engines instead over at car-part.com, LKQ, etc.

The tussle is usually between the TSS OSS sensors and the solenoid body. More often the sensors than not, but we are starting to see the solenoid bodies starting to fail as well. You can run diagnostics on the solenoid body without having to open the main control cover, so at least there is that As far as replacing the sensors, taking your time and doublechecking your work is very important.