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check speakers and subwoofer, could be an electronic thump or something actually broken

if you have chromeclad wheels, they can cause noises as well, usually clicking though.

did you have codes before you did the work? how many miles on your vehicle? did you use motorcraft plugs or are they aftermarket as well? although relatively uncommon on this generation, the pcm may be suspect if the coils check out. but seems like these aftermarket coils may not be quality at all. you can check basic stats using the method shown here

there have often been problems with the exhaust flaps behind the rear bumper, if this happens even in recirculation mode. not usually on this platform, but something to check, especially in areas of high insect activity or high levels of mud/debris. heavy acceleration cuts off the normal emissions monitoring to save the engine, and the fuel mix runs rich. results in odors. if you have a broken flex pipe, that will exacerbate the problem.

lets start from the beginning: mileage ownership history maintenance and modification history why was a salvage car being used to fix issues on your vehicle normally, a fast flashing PATS light is a sure sign of fob failure. not sure why the OBD port is not working, but usually it is not turned off by the vehicle. more likely either a physical wiring/fuse related problem or at some point an aftermarket immobilizer or similar device was installed. have never seen the PATS light flash that 1-6 sequence. the CEL used to be used to flash codes in the days of OBD1. the HVAC module (dual) on this platform still does. but not PATS. have you verified that the vehicle battery is good? voltage and Cold Cranking Amps.

you can check for any mfr's latest cards at navigation.com

the 2.0 has no dipstick, you have to get under the vehicle to service/check the fluid.

ford always changes a few things as model years roll by, but nothing that can't be overcome. typically you have to use the sensors and flexplate that come with your 2013 engine instead of the more recent one. meaning if you get new sensors or flexplate, they should be a fit for your VIN number. also some mounting bits may differ. again, reuse the 2013 bits for that perfect fit. use motorcraft yellow coolant, or peak 10x/prestone 300k universals.

what are the symptoms when it fails to start on hot days, @Abdullah Alghamdi? does it crank normally or not even crank? do the lights on the dash come on normally? does the security light flash slowly or does it become faster when cranking? starters are known to fail during temperature extremes.

rear bank is where the heat gets trapped, in every type of engine in our vehicles. you might think the 2.7 is not as crammed as the 3.5 is, but it is, due to the extra parts and hosiery required. and air flow is not even across the cylinders. this was proven when direct meth injection systems (1 Nozzle per port) were developed for the 3.5 EB.

if you heard a squeaking/whistling/whooshing sound when stepping on the brakes, it is the booster. if not, you may have a faulty ABS module. the master cylinder hardly ever fails on this platform.

check out rockauto.com or any online ford dealer such as fordpartsgiant.com

generally the breakage is inside the turbo with the wastegate. i think 1 or two people have repaired it successfully but have no documentation to that effect. best bet is to replace the turbo.

the TCM is not even listed, i wonder what they would classify it as - adaptive or not, since you have to erase the tables separately from the PCM reset.

if it is awd, it is worth checking the RDU. not sure what all symptoms are going to crop up with the instant disconnect these things have.

what year edge? are you comparing cold start to warm/hot start? are you using keyed/keyless/or remote start when this happens? have you checked battery health - cold cranking amps in particular? are the cranking rpms the same regardless of which time you start the engine? ... more questions may arise once data is provided.

it should. fordtechmakuloco also has a video on this on YT

since you are noting temperature dependent symptoms, and already serviced trans fluid, you should check basic maintenance items such as air filter spark plugs pcv valve maf/map sensor(s) loose wiring wiring eaten away by pests where are you located?

have not heard of any such servicing on the edge mkx platform. i assume the bearings are sealed and will not benefit from it. you could replace the motors or the brushes maybe. or get a dropin replacement from a JY on car-part.com

try to get the pcm reprogrammed https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tV0p90M85nN1S99BRujXA620dqIfQ6l/view?usp=sharing

who is telling you to replace these bushings and why? do you have an invoice or estimate to that effect? afaik, subframe bushings have never had to be replaced on any MY of Edge. and as Haz mentioned, if you really did, you would need the entire subframe OR source alternative parts with help from parts houses. no one has even developed aftermarket sub bushings, tho that is hardly a surprise given how eclectic an effort that would be.

some of the work is shown in these videos for GEN 1.5 for GEN 1

JD_Crankshaft Position _CKP_ Sensor 2007-2010 Edge MKX.pdf hopefully gives the solution

Inertia switch is a good idea, since you are getting cranking but no fuel.

vct has only 1 per valve cover, ti-vct has two. vct only controls intake, ti-vct controls both intake and exhaust. if the new motor is from an 08, then it should be 100% compatible. are you sure the new motor has no timing issues? there was a tsb on the phasers that state if it had timing related codes, that the phasers would need to be replaced. i guess tho the codes would show up when you started it after the install, but its puzzling why it wont even start.