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No, I was talking about the 2.3. We have previously seen it in the Explorer. But to have that engine crammed into an MKC with the reputation the engine has thanks to the Mustang community gives me a glimmer of hope that we would see upgrades to it like have been developed for the gen 2 sport. Of course, nobody hotrods a Lincoln anymore, right So may be a task for someone who purchases an MKC as a second owner etc. I think it is a gem in the rough. Maybe even a retrofit project for 2.0EB based vehicles.

The fight for colder, denser air is always worth it when done right. And a performance intercooler is a big step forward. This is on a SHO, with the same limitations that any of the Ford boosted transverse platforms have: space

Let us know how it holds up for you longterm. Many many many owners esp those with special needs will be eternally grateful

Yeah, fluid changes have proven key for multiple performance-oriented models. The more extreme the demands, the more extreme the change intervals. And always try to get the best fluids you can - engine oil, transmission fluid, PTU/RDU fluids etc. A lot of owners are now running high E fuel - that takes a toll on engine oil. Not using high heat capable PTU fluid wears down bearings and ultimately chews up the gears. And yes, you CAN feel a difference immediately when you install hipo fluids. Coolant is not a big deal for the Ecoboost engines in the Edge/MKX/Nautilus platform as far as water pumps go, BUT additives do wear out and drop out of solution. The orange coolant is still not where it needs to be in terms of longterm performance. It poses challenges just like the gold coolant did. Specialty Green may have been the best thus far. Transmission fluid has detergents that help keep the transmission clean. BUT the "filters"/screens are internal. So you have no choice but to change fluid regularly. As vehicles get older, people are now taking the case halves apart themselves and replacing the screens, but that is not suitable for everyone, unless you are in SpecialK and snmjim's car club And of course, no one mentions brake fluid. Is it really that reliable? Maybe, but it could be much improved as well. Just be sure the fluid specs on your new fluid are the same or better than what Ford specs. It can negatively impact the ABS if not.

Nothing new for Ford. They have done pseudo-support for non Mustang and F150 performance oriented vehicles for decades now. Mostly because that is where the numbers say to put the resources. You saw advances in the Taurus and Explorer platforms in 2013 solely because they have a huge LEO fleet market to consider, and then of course defray the expenditure by spreading the goodies around to civilian model lines. They produced the Edge ST to make a change just for the sake of change? Maybe, maybe not. There wasn't really an Edge SPORT till the 2015 model year. Lipstick on a pig till then with all the bling - the bling was done quite well tho Even their FPS offerings for STs are not really for true enthusiasts. It does get you factory warranty with the upgrades, but the quality is just a starting line. Aftermarket is still where it is. I think they are really wanting to not do anything till the refresh when we will see an option for a hybrid, like we have seen with the new Explorer. What IS exciting to me is that the Corsair has the 2.3L EB option. Although tuning might be hobbled as it was with the 3.0EB for the Continental and MKZ, still it opens the door!

They are just trying to play catchup and are jelly of your achievements thus far!

The evap canister and vent solenoids are always under the vehicle. Remove the undercabin shields, and you will have access to them.

Front plugs can be deceiving. The back plugs will tell the real story. A lot of heat concentrated near the firewall. But as long as fuel trims look good and there are no performance issues, you should be ok.

Those three letters are ones to watch out for: AWD, PTU, etc ? Assuming the driving has been good, no unsettling sounds from the powertrain, regular maintenance would include: Change the PTU and RDU fluids Change the coolant Change the transmission fluid Change the power steering fluid Change the brake fluid Check all parts of the suspension, replace as needed - struts, strut mounts, shocks, sway bar links, etc. Change the accessory belts, and if necessary, the tensioner Check battery CCAs and if necessary, replace battery if alternator tests good and you drive enough to recharge battery If you have the Vista roof/BAMR, clean the tracks and lube with dielectric grease To protect from the salt bath, something like Fluid Film is recommended at least annually. IDK what shape your Edge is in tho. Change the cabin air filter at least annually There are probably other concerns I am leaving out Plenty of helpful info on this site, and videos are available on YouTube - MACTFORDEDGE channel, and elsewhere.

It says it will, in the description. So, the assumption is, yes.

Hard to draw a conclusion based strictly on the absence of data, BUT from Ford's point of view, there IS no problem since not a peep about it all these years. Of course we see stretched timing chains on vehicles that supposedly do not have that particular issue, so who's to say what hand YOU are going to be dealt. Tho I would tend to agree that in the aggregate it is not a major issue, but to the individual owner, it can be quite a shock.

At 200K+ miles, we really would like to know the maintenance history on both engine and transmission. Especially transmission fluid, but also plugs/coils/pcv valve etc. A whole lotta problems stem from just OLD fluid, and it is a cheap/easy place to start your diagnostic. Check the torque mount on the transmission, but that hard shift from D to R, assuming a complete stop prior to shifting, is likely to be the solenoid body assembly.

Not sure that Sync has any relationship to locks ... It could be as simple as the battery in the fobs or the vehicle battery itself. Weird behavior is typical of a battery starting to give out. Check cold cranking amps, not just voltage. Tho typically a Battery Saver message comes on Sync if the battery is failing. Did you get such a message? It is also possible the Remote Keyless Entry module is causing these problems. The reported incident rate is very low tho. Could be a short in the wiring itself leading to the driver controls. But have not heard of it causing issues like you are seeing.

Noise typical of a failed starter. That is what I would test and if it fails, replace.

Aside from the normal used car issues of tires, suspension, battery, etc. Looks like the car has been driven, and not sat still. You can check the Canadian version of Carfax to get approx/year. Just under 250K as it sits now, but there may have been periods where low miles were put on, always check for that. AWD - ugh. With the possibility that the PTU or RDU fluid have never been changed. Ask about that. Also if your driving habits differ substantially from the current owner's, you may run into some issues. Mixed and city driving are hard on PTUs especially. PTU can cost $ Transmission - has the fluid been regularly serviced and when was it last serviced? You may need to change out some sensors/solenoid body if it is experiencing shifting issues. Generally a 2007/8 MY problem, but never say never, right? Plugs/coils - again generally a 2007/8 problem. But ask for service history. Too many miles on the plugs can ruin the coils which in turn can ruin the PCM. The big one: water pump. If you see slime buildup in the coolant degas/overflow bottle, you will want to either a) walk away, b) negotiate the price down, or c) be prepared to spend approx $1,400 USD to fix it (if not DIY) or replace with a used engine. You have dual climate control. Make sure the heat AND the ac work perfectly, that one side is not blowing hot the other cold etc. As you can see, getting a good service history is essential. To me, there are 2 essential tools to take along, actually 3, when checking out a used vehicle: 1) OBD2 scanner - check for codes, make sure P1000 is not set, because that could be hiding issues that will return 2) Solar BA7 tester - for battery/alternator issues 3) paint thickness meter - to check for signs of previous body damage/repair. I am sure I am missing out on many other things. With age, many parts come due for replacement. I personally would have a $5,000 slush fund for the possible fixes that might be needed on ANY used vehicle this old that I intend to keep for the longterm. HTH.

this is for gen 1.5, so gen 2 might be different. info grabbed from the owner manual. 2015 type 1 and 2 display: settings > vehicle > oil life reset 2016, 2017, 2018 type 2 display only: settings > vehicle > oil life reset

It may not allow you to do this in the base cluster, but in the advanced cluster, under Settings/Vehicle Settings, Vehicle, Oil Life Reset, you can set the desired % for the light to come on. EDIT: Base cluster - go into Settings, Convenience, Oil Life Reset.

FordTechMakuloco suggests 30K 1st change interval. Why? watch his video to see all the breakin materials that are floating around in the fluid, contaminating the sensors, solenoids, and valve body

Using strictly miles to determine oil change time is a fallacy. It is very dependent on the nature of the miles - highway, mixed, city. You drive less than the average driver in the U.S., almost 50% less, and sounds like either mixed or city conditions are a significant portion of those miles. Engine hours (use Trip 2 to help track) is a much better way of correlating oil change warnings to actual need. Are you the original owner of the vehicle? You might want to check at what level the warning of remaining oil life is set. By default I think it is 10% but some are aggressive enough to change it to 50% due to either changing oil early, or knowing they won't go into the shop right after the warning pops up, etc. Oil is cheap compared to a new engine, or having to replace the water pump/timing system parts. Don't worry too much, use only full synthetic.

What do the rotors look like? The pads look like there's plenty of life. Rusting seems minimal. If the brakes are working flawlessly, you can decide to let it ride. But that mileage and age on the parts would make me want to change out the pads and rotors, service the calipers, change the brake fluid, etc. Are you DIY, or asking a shop to do the work?

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 19-2288 8F57 - Harsh Shifting, Engagement From PARK To REVERSE, PARK To DRIVE, REVERSE To DRIVE Or DRIVE To REVERSE, And/Or Shift Flare 4th-5th Gear This bulletin supersedes 19-2103. Reason for update: Incorrect Procedure Model: Ford 2019 Edge Lincoln 2019 Nautilus Summary This article supersedes TSB 19-2103 to update the Issue Statement, Action Statement, and Service Procedure. Issue: Some 2019 Edge/Nautilus vehicles may exhibit harsh/bumpy upshift/downshifts, harsh engagements from PARK to REVERSE, PARK to DRIVE, REVERSE to DRIVE or DRIVE to REVERSE. The vehicle may also exhibit an upshift flare from 4th to 5th gear during the first shift after a cold start. This may be due to the shift strategy in the powertrain control module (PCM). Action: Follow the Service Procedure on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria: • 2019 Edge/Nautilus • At least one of the following symptoms: - Harsh/bumpy upshift/downshift - Harsh engagement from PARK to REVERSE, PARK to DRIVE, REVERSE to DRIVE or DRIVE to REVERSE - Upshift flare from 4th gear to 5th gear Warranty Status: Information Only. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: IN Condition Code: 04 Service Procedure On some 2019 Edge/Nautilus vehicles, engineering has identified a calibration that may not resolve a harsh/bumpy upshift or downshift, harsh engagements from PARK to REVERSE, PARK to DRIVE, REVERSE to DRIVE or DRIVE to REVERSE, and/or upshift flare from 4th to 5th gear. Engineering is working to release a new calibration with an updated shift strategy. Do not attempt any repairs at this time. Monitor OASIS for updates.

Welcome to the community, and thank you for your service! I hope the ST proves every bit as comfortable as you hope for.

Hey there, Haz, haven't seen you around in a bit.

Normally I find Michelin and Continental neck n neck. But yeah the Pilot Sport series is outstanding. Will have to look these up, new 2 me.

PM me if you are unable to connect with OP. I might have the pics, tho they will not be original quality of course.