WWWPerfA_ZN0W

could be wheel bearings, yes, already. has happened on gen 2 vehicles before. at those speeds, i would not rule them out. especially if turning left vs turning right at those speeds makes a good bit of difference in the sound. tires you can try to rule out via rotation and balancing. but if all 4 are defective, you have a conundrum.

Fuse 65 in the Battery Junction Box / underhood fuse box.

Wow. That is not nice. Could have said it a lot better than you did. Best of luck with your research, hope you find what you are looking for.

Welcome! Get maintenance up to date, and that will greatly aid you in your goal Do post a pic or two of your new ride!

May just need new plugs. Tuned vehicles burn up plugs a lot faster than stock. No other codes, right? The arrow in the diagram points to the belt side of the engine, or the "front" of the engine.

Do you notice any fuel level changes between startups? Could it be the brake system is starting up the PCM? Also could be a fault with the transmission range sensor, even stray voltage maybe, that causes the vehicle to think it is in a particular gear when in reality it is not. From the 2014 towing guide: (3) All-wheel-drive/Intelligent 4WD vehicles cannot be towed on a dolly. (4) Maximum speed with automatic transmission is 65 mph. (5) Start the engine and allow it to run for five (5) minutes at the beginning of each day and every six (6) hours thereafter. Emergency towing In case of a roadside emergency with a disabled vehicle (without access to wheel dollies, car hauling trailer, or flatbed transport vehicle) your vehicle (regardless of transmission powertrain configuration) can be flat towed (all wheels on the ground) under the following conditions: • Vehicle is facing forward so that it is being towed in a forward direction. • Place the transmission in N (Neutral). Refer to Brake-shift interlock in the Driving chapter for specific instructions if you cannot move the gear shift lever into N (Neutral). • Maximum speed is not to exceed 35 mph (56 km/h). • Maximum distance is 50 miles (80 km).

The intake temp sensor? That is built into the MAF sensor. Almost never see it go wrong unless the MAF is severely degraded, and almost never a code unless the MAF is disconnected. I guess you could check to make sure the fuses and relays are firmly seated in the fusebox, but these symptoms do not seem typical of that either. Could be a crank sensor, you would think it would throw a code tho ... Fuel pumps might cause the stall, then restart after it has had time to cool down. Do you hear it prime when you turn the ignition key to ON (but not START/RUN)?

Check owner.ford.com for the owner's manual which will have all the capacities and specifications you need.

What are the codes? My guess would be throttle body as well. The sensor is available separately as you can see on rockauto.com. Thing with throttle body codes tho is that they are temporary and are erased upon restart. So if the stall happens again, read codes with ignition on, but do not attempt to restart.

Is the PATS light (red lock) flashing rapidly by any chance on the dashboard? That would mean a key / security issue.

Low coolant level can also cause heat to be non-existent on the driver side. Clogged cabin air filter should not but maybe ... Driverside blend door actuator. Have you tried pulling the negative battery cable for a few minutes? That will reset the climate control/HVAC unit.

How many miles on your Edge btw? Powertrain goes 5/60 if you are within that. If outside of it, but not by much, you could still get some reimbursement from Ford corporate. Just have to pursue, politely, persitently.

The connector at the DSM is known to melt/short on other model lines, so that could indeed be the issue, rather than the DSM itself.

Did I miss it, or was the model year/mileage stated? There are a few common problems we can think of, but they can vary by model year/generation. Typically the high rev means a component coming on (such as A/C compressor) OR an intermittent vacuum leak that forces the PCM to raise revs to stabilize the engine. But there can be many reasons, including worn out spark plugs as PerBlue mentioned.

http://fueleconomy.gov will give you the mpg ratings you want to look up (at least for the U.S.). https://fueleconomy.gov/feg/PowerSearch.do?action=noform&path=1&year1=2011&year2=2011&make=Ford&baseModel=Edge&srchtyp=ymm I think you are looking at the combined ratings, not the city ratings at 21. Bigger wheels and AWD will eat into the mpg, to the tune of almost 2 mpg. You have FWD, so that is not an issue. Fluids seem good too. Winter drops tire pressures, but it seems you are checking regularly so you are keeping them at 35 psi (I assume). City driving or "special operations" conditions it is not unusual to get lower mpg than rated unless you really hypermile it. Short trips and extended idling waste fuel and dilute the oil with fuel. If you smell fuel in the oil, the oil has run too long, or you may need a slightly higher viscosity oil to begin with (5W30 instead of 5W20, for example). 25,000 miles in 3 years (or worse, 4) is very low mileage annually. While I don't think the plugs need replacing, it is easy to pull and check Bank 2 (near radiator) to verify. Realize that Bank 1 plugs are more likely to have larger gaps but not by a significant margin. When were brakes last serviced (especially rears)? Were the slide pins and boots serviced at the same time (greased and/or replaced)?

Reviving an "old" thread: Bilstein apparently does make replacements for the Edge platform (presumably fits MKX also if Motorcraft number fits) https://cart.bilsteinus.com Summit Racing carries the product line, so you can check for your specific application. https://www.summitracing.com Only B4 and B6 series ATM, no coilovers or springs IIRC.

ok not the gear at least. still could be the pump, if raising the rpms makes the effort easier.

Ford occasionally has ST meets, and they are well-coordinated. If you can sign up for one, it will greatly enhance your ownership experience.

In all this hullabaloo, let's not forget that Ford created a groundbreaking vehicle, wellbalanced from both a performance and comfort point of view. We should applaud them for what they did right as well. Just my 2 cents.

Sweet, looks great!

I absolutely hate having to buy a new vehicle ? Congratulations, best of luck, and welcome to the community!

no special trick, just don't force it, as you risk snapping the arm against the glass and breaking it.

You are not on the latest version of Sync3. 3.3 is the latest official revision. You can get 3.4 also, but so far, at your own risk.

That is a suggestion on my part in case the booster fix does not work. Not officially a Ford fix The booster would be OOP, not paid for by Ford in the absence of warranty.