WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Cool! I can see the files in that folder now

The problem is the URL is sending it relative to my dropbox location, when it needs to be relative to YOUR dropbox location. If you created a folder with these files, you could share the folder and drop a single link into this thread. Or create a link to each file you want to drop and insert into the desired post. To share a file, highlight the desired file. You should see a SHARE menu dropdown, pick Dropbox. Then a window will open to allow you to email the link. Ignore that, look to the bottom of that window for SHARE THE LINK INSTEAD. Click on CREATE THE LINK. Once created you will see a COPY THE LINK option. Click to copy. Then paste where you want it to be. This is an example from my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/8getpdljv58g39t/2011 Taurus Evaporative Emission EVAP System Components mdash Exploded View _zpsv3dmkjjk.jpg?dl=0

Do you have a 2.0 or a 3.5/3.7? Seems to me the injector may not be responding, and backfeeding to the PCM injector driver, just like worn plugs do to the coils then to the PCM coil drivers in Gen 1 Edge/MKX vehicles. I know it means taking off the intake manifold, but replacing the injector is much easier on the pocket than replacing the PCM. It IS more difficult on the 2.0 due to the tech involved, but if you can follow directions, not so bad. Did you verify the injector itself? It should ohm out between 11-18 ohms between injector + and - for the 3.5/3.7 and 1-2 ohms for the 2.0.

Barring any critters blend door or mode door actuators would be your best bet IF indeed from behind the dash. Could be something mounted on the firewall, maybe the brake booster. Can you localize it to driver or passenger side? Is the HVAC on at the time it happens?

Did you share it to the public or are they still viewable only by you?

Good likelihood of the strut mounts being bad. Depending on mileage, you may want to replace struts AND strut mounts, and in pairs. Maybe even the springs. You can get assemblies from Summit Racing or put together your own from Rock Auto. Motorcraft mounts and springs, Motorcraft or KYB struts. Top choices. KYB rides firmer than stock, and is a perfect goto for those with the Plus, Limited, or Sport.

Quite a lot of text to peruse LOL. Edgeingage, did you check/are you checking battery and starting system health with something like the BA7 What are your driving conditions? Do you routinely get 20+ minutes highway time in your Edge or is it a weekend warrior? Because the battery has a base capacity of 850 CCAs, it can go a bit longer under drain conditions than can the OEM battery that came with your vehicle. Just because it seems to take a long time to display the message, does not mean the battery is not losing capacity. Did you ever reset the BMS once you installed the battery? Sometimes the DIY method of letting it sit does not work, and neither does Forscan. A high end scan tool or Ford IDS type tool is required to set the BMS in that case. Also make sure with Forscan or IDS etc that battery type is AGM, as it charges differently than an SLA battery. Yes, even Motorcraft batteries can be bad out of the box, or go bad sooner than expected. Have had that happen even with the Toughmax 850. Typically I recommend Odyssey for demanding applications, but since my dataset is of only 1, I cannot say what your experience will be. It IS a toprated battery however.

Already had 2 working non-clone keys?

Out of sheer respect for OP, I shall join this bidding war. $5.55 But seriously, GLWS!

2015+ Edge, 2016-2018 MKX, yes.

Check blower fan operation and coolant level. Coolant should be at the top of the COLD FILL RANGE for best results. When was the last time you changed the cabin air filter?

Good to know

Is it gas or propane smell? Is it under hard acceleration or under cruise / mild acceleration, as long as A/C is on? The exhaust flaps behind the bumper cover may be stuck open. The flex pipe in the exhaust may be cracked or broken. Propane smell usually happens on AWD vehicles when the PTU fluid leaks out.

You can subscribe to any number of online services that will give you access to shop manual type stuff. Chilton, Mitchell, Alldata etc. Plus you would gain access to TSBs and Recalls relevant to your specific vehicle. You can also purchase a PDF / searchable PDF of the shop manual, I have not tried that route though.

Not only is it hard to initially source the product, but then you have to work equally hard to find a replacement. Kudos for breaking down the walls.

Excellent info and trackdown. Thanks for adding your experience to the forum.

If the failure is intermittent, there could still be a problem with the starter (e.g., internal short). Did you by any chance observe the RPMs at the time when it was spinning but not engaging? When you had the starter tested, was there a readout of how many amps it was pulling? The expected values for a 3.5/3.7 setup: General Specifications Item Specification Normal engine cranking speed 200-250 rpm Starting circuit maximum voltage drop (Engine at normal operating temperature) 0.5 volt Starter motor maximum load current draw 800 amps Starter motor no-load current draw 60-80 amps Starter motor normal load current draw 130-190 amps

The longterm thing to do in such cases is keep the vehicle on a tender.

I know the X4 does, not sure about the Livewire, best to ask an SCT tuner like Unleashed Tuning to make sure. Have the strategy code handy.

How many miles on your Edge? Don't typically see issues unless located in the "hot zone" - Arizona, Louisiana, Florida, Texas or the like. Failures are really rare. Have you checked the battery and cabling?

Check the RDU and the driveshaft in that case. RDU is not nearly as frequent a failure point as the PTU, but it does fail albeit with the same symptoms as the PTU. Symptoms might also fit a sticking caliper, need to remove and inspect. Rear calipers more frequently have an issue than the fronts since they serve doubleduty as master brakes and parking brake. Especially if you park on a hill and use the parking brake. That is the brakes locked up after getting hot, heatsoaking, and causing all kinds of problems if left that way longterm, especially in humid weather or freezing conditions.

Grinding can also come from ABS components / traction control in action. It is hard to distinguish traction control from AWD and ABS as they all work together to provide their functionality. Passenger side would be cause to check the PTU fluid more closely, maybe run a test for ferrous particles.. How many miles do you have on it? It MAY be perfectly normal tho, given that you have inspected the usual suspects and found nothing.

I will hit the revs in my 3.5 (2007) and enjoy the engine growl. But seriously, Ford is also biasing powertrain performance, so I wouldn't put it past them to make the 2.0 look good while the 3.5 languishes. Just the way it goes as older products get decommissioned.

Modern coolants have water pump lubrication and rust preventatives built in. See Prestone's Cor-Guard for an example. No need for adding such products. Just change coolant regularly. As far as police interceptors, they live in high stress environments. They are mandated to have PTU fluid changes every 30K, but police depts prefer 10K because that's what gets them a troublefree PTU. 50K can be overly long considering how much idling these vehicles are subject to.

Pull codes even if there is no CEL. That might provide clues to what is actually the matter. At this point, it could be trans related (TSS/OSS), engine related (plugs & coils/PCM), or ABS related (tone ring/wheel speed sensor).