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@rcll1 yes the brushes do wear down, most often the cause. sometimes the module will fail but rare compared to brushes. don't know if any spray product will help. there used to be a video in arabic on youtube showing disassembly and repair of these fans ... his channel ... prob not cc'd https://www.youtube.com/@myh1401/videos

how old is the battery? can you post a pic of what you have, including mfr date if still on there? use a digital tester like the solar ba9 to test battery alternator starting system yourself. store testing of batteries is weak sauce. i would replace the battery. also, if the PATS light is flashing fast when you attempt to start, you may need a new fob or get it reprogrammed to the vehicle.

did the problem begin after any of the work was done? thats a pretty significant list of items. some requiring configuration. how many miles on the clock? fuel and emissions management is considered critical so it is POSSIBLE the vehicle sees that code and is refusing to start. tho it should not crank at all. verify battery voltage and cold cranking amps with engine off and at ambient. the push button could be failing but not enough yet to set a code.

is it just noise or vibration also? awd or fwd? plugs/coils/maf/tb/all fluids maintenance history?

i believe the reset for a manual system is different from auto but i could be wrong ... anyway, there is only 1 blend door in manual systems. how has the coolant maintenance been? what are the temps at the heater core inlet/outlet?

check to see if this tsb applies to you https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link

@Perblue sorry to hear but the stress is in keeping with the holiday season there is a tsb for the 2.7, not sure it applies to you, if turbos are truly what went. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link but if you do go the 3.0 route, couldn't blame ya.

no tsb that i am aware of. typically with fords, the drains are blocked causing water to enter the cabin. the drains should exit under the door paneling. the entrance should be in the front of the sunroof one on each side. try blowing them out with compressed air.

maybe look up fabricators for focus and fusion and give em a ring.

@tobjack54 how many miles on your edge? has the brake fluid been serviced regularly? iirc some 2010s were included in the extended warranty program, but since it was from original purchase date, it is likely expired - brake booster. you should bleed the abs system (need computer to do that) then bleed the main brakes. if there is air in the abs, bleeding just the mains wont work. or find a gravel road, put your vehicle in reverse, drive at moderate speed then brake hard to engage abs. repeat a few times and see if that helps. if it does not, and pedal travel is fine, you might be looking at replacing the hcu and/or abs module.

unplugged the car will continue to idle but it will set a code. you can drive with it but it will be rough and have loss of power. with lack of input from the MAF, that is what you will experience.

as ron said, get a gauge on there, but if it rattles at operating temp, you have a problem on your hands. many "nused" vehicle owners find out the hard way

some adapters we like over at mactfordedge groups https://www.mactgarage.com/obd-adapters-tuning for detailed work and longevity, we recommend the obdlink mx+ or bluedriver ... note these links are mact affiliated. if you do not wish mact to receive a commission, use the product number in the url to get to it directly.

if oil level is correct and there are no leaks, the oil light coming on is a problem. i have the rattle on startup or i used to before changing a few maintenance items, and the oil light has never come on. so the fact that it shows up at all is an issue. recheck the switch make sure it is not leaking. this would not cause a rattle but would cause the light to come on. yes even new switches fail. or possibly no thread sealant was applied. Lubrication System The engine lubrication system is of the force-feed type in which oil is supplied under full pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, timing chain tensioners and VCT solenoids. The flow of oil to the valve tappets and valve train is controlled by a restricting orifice located in the cylinder head, front camshaft cap. Oil Pump The lubrication system is designed to provide optimum oil flow to critical components of the engine through its entire operating range. The heart of the system is a positive displacement internal gear oil pump. Generically, this design is known as a gerotor pump, which operates as follows: The oil pump is mounted on the front face of the cylinder block. The inner rotor is piloted on the crankshaft post and is driven through flats on the crankshaft. System pressure is limited by an integral, internally-vented relief valve which directs the bypassed oil back to the inlet side of the oil pump. Oil pump displacement has been selected to provide adequate volume to make sure of correct oil pressure both at hot idle and maximum speed. The relief valve calibration protects the system from excessive pressure during high-viscosity conditions. The relief valve is designed to provide adequate connecting rod bearing lubrication under high-temperature and high-speed conditions.

how many miles on your edge. if it rattles and the oil light comes on, you are likely looking at a timing/water pump job

no. different engines altogether. i would suggest getting forscan lite and an obd adapter to monitor timing/timing errors. almost seems tho like there is inadequate oil flow or the oil has broken down.

how old are the blades/when were they last replaced? brand? have you tried wiping down the edges with isopropyl alcohol? that will give you an assessment of whether the edges are smooth or not.

car-part.com for used engines with warranties. i beilieve you can find vehicles through the 2018 MY that used this 3.5 the 3.7 tivct engines from the FWD platformed vehicles should also be a dropin fit, but i have not confirmed. depending on how old the replacement engine is, you might want to budget for a water pump + timing job on it anyway for peace of mind.

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24317-the-ultimate-27tt-aftermarket-parts-thread/

@hamdan out of pocket unless you have remaining factory warranty.

the sport got a 2.7 ecoboost in 2015, so 2014 should be the 3.7L engine.

If your edge came from factory with the tow package it will have the oil cooler. and yeah the adapter + extra tubing is hard to miss. https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2010-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/cooling-system--oil-cooler if you dont have the cooler you can still buy an engine with the cooler and simply discard those fittings.

not dead, but not much new happening with the platform except maybe mods on the ST. the edge is officially out of production, so i am sure that weighs it down a bit.

prob stupid question, but have you reset the mpg since you got it? do you drive primarily in the city or heavy traffic? new plugs will be a nice boost if the installed plugs are original to the car. motorcraft plugs are your best bet. you can find the coils in a pack from an online ford dealer ba5z12259a. the gaskets and plugs will not fit your MY tho. ford keeps raising the price, but still better than paying for them individually. definitely assess the health of the ptu and rdu. hopefully you had new chains and tensioners installed with the water pump, bonus if you did the vct solenoids as well.

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