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No touching the maf sensor wires. Too fragile, as you rightly said. If you choose to use one gently, you have to test voltages with a wire piercing probe afterwards to confirm continuity. A process you can try, if you are ready to buy a replacement MAF: https://www.louv.tv/cars/m5/MAF/

A few incidents relating to broken back glass have been written up on this forum. No known reason why this problem exists. I personally suspect lamination/tint combined with defrost cycles, but that is pure conjecture.

Spic 'n span interior! Congrats on the 300K mark!

There might be rust on the wheels that needs to be properly sanded off before the tires are remounted. Either that, or the wheels should be replaced, maybe a smaller wheel to prevent recurrence? Hopefully you will get free Tire Care warranty or something similar to keep these costs from hitting your wallet. I assume the TSB performed so far is 11-5-16, as referred to in post #4 in this thread? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/9124-pirelli-wheels-bead-leak-issue/?do=findComment&comment=73475

Welcome to the community, and congrats on your Edge, Jose! Plenty of good info on here, plenty of opportunity to learn & share

Did you get an ODO error of some sort (an actual error code, I know you said the mileage blanked out)? This has been found to be fixed in the past with replacement of the TSS/OSS sensors.

Congrats, and enjoy!

Cool! Looking fwd to the pix

Are you using the same dealer? May be time to change dealers and/or talk to Ford National Customer Service. We do have a rep on this forum, Todd, and I am sure he can help you out as well. Is the squealing coming from the engine compartment or the rear? If from the engine compartment, could be time for new belts. Some moving part has to be involved, I can't imagine a rock jammed into the metal guard would do it. If you can get someone to change out the PTU and RDU fluid, wouldn't be a bad idea at all. At least you can then check the condition of the fluid, for example, for metal shavings, viscosity, etc.

I use the same trio of physical stations (Exxon/Shell/Costco) to evaluate. Have done this with other vehicles as well. Possible that it IS directly related to how drunk the gas is at each station

Welcome to the forum, and sorry to hear about the problem with your Edge. How many miles on it? Ever had coolant flush done on it? Any abnormal exhaust smells/vapors? A thermostat swap is a good place to start too. Pressure test the system to make leaks more easily recognizable. This can be a difficult problem to diagnose. If a head gasket leak is involved, then you should see the coolant getting oily/mucky in the overflow reservoir, and coolant mixed in the oil (dipstick). There have been a couple of reports of head gaskets needing replacement, but on relatively high mileage vehicles (> 100,000 miles). Could be engine oil or transmission fluid mixed in. Use a "U-View® Combustion Leak Tester part number 560000 or equivalent" to test for combustion gases in the coolant, if no oil is evident. The radiator, water pump and heater core would be the next suspects. I am guessing no smell in the cabin (?), so that eliminates the heater core. Are the radiator fans turning on when the temp gauge goes up? If not, could be the fans or the control module. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6puvw-ford-edge-wife-s-2007-ford-edge-sel-needed.html

Not sure where exactly these pucks or blocks go on the Edge, but yeah, they go on the springs. Made out of hard foam or rubber. I have never seen these, but I would think it would be pretty obvious if you do have them in place.

Try it now.

Try this: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html There are other stubby antennas out there, including one made for the MINI Cooper that work OK. Search on Amazon, for instance.

Welcome to the community, and congrats on your new ride! Very nice looking with the appearance package. Tinting is a great idea! Particularly in combination with bright lighting (headlamps and reverse lamps). If you don't have HIDs, upgrade to HID. Plastidip various shiny pieces if that's the route you want to go. Plastidipping wheels makes cleanup easier too. Replace the vertical DRLs with DTBL DRLs. Tons of things you can do.

Maybe they did not adjust the pedal travel properly? This is one of the steps in brake booster removal "Remove the brake booster push rod pin and clip and disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal".

What year/trim level Edge? You can try either pulling the fuse (#37 10A in the passenger compartment panel on 2013 Edge), or pulling the battery cable to see if that helps reset the CC to normal behavior. Note that pulling the battery cable means the Edge will have to go through the whole relearn process, and you will need to follow the appropriate procedure for that (e.g., pg 298 in 2013 Edge O.M.). Fuse listings start on pg. 273 of said manual, noting that if you pull ANY underhood fuse, disconnect the battery first.

Can you describe the type of noise you are hearing? Is it a whistling sort of noise? I think I have read before on this forum that the noise can be caused by the side view mirror. Maybe a cover that is slightly loose at speed?

TSB simply means "We have a fix if you have this problem". Generally, not free unless vehicle is under the b2b warranty. A deductible may apply on extended warranties (look up your sales contract).

Among the multitude of threads, this one may be of assistance to you http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12565-how-tos-powertrain-electronics-body-more/

Welcome to the Edge/MKX community, and congratulations on your new ride! What other vehicles did you consider during this process, and what finally sold you on the Edge?

Cool stuff. Need to have this flowcharted

Startup for me usually is around 1250-1300 rpm. How long it stays there depends on how long it takes the engine to start warming up. Then it will come down in a stepped fashion to about 600 rpm (no towing for me). Assuming this is all in Park. If you change gears, the rpm's will drop sooner. Very steady in idle once settled down to 600 rpm. Can hardly see any fluctuations on mine. If you are seeing, you should be hearing the fluctuation too. In that case, might want to look at your idle air control setup.

Won't do any damage as long as you do not overoil the filter. Then it could possibly contaminate the MAF sensor, leading to degraded engine performance. Difference is in sound, not huge, but it is there. Performance wise don't expect anything. You have to have an intake system at the very least, and to maximize its' value, a matching catback system.

Maybe Dan's LEDs are TOO efficient? Do they actually pull 50W per bulb? Or do they have output equal to a 50W incandescent bulb? Anyway, unless you have a testing setup available, as already mentioned, best to ask Dan the Man.