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Don't have a solution for you, cherylm, but have you considered using LED bulbs instead? Ones that are not too low of a wattage so you don't have to worry about hyperflash?

All under warranty, Richy, I hope?

Have you checked the bulb installations? Maybe they put OEM bulbs back in or otherwise fiddled with their position in the headlight? Also, are the lenses on the headlights clear, or are they aged/yellow/etc?

Definitely ask for at least what it was worth at the time just before the accident, if that is not the payout already.

Your "new" tire is 30 mm wider, so it has an overhang of 15 mm on either side compared to your stock tire. If the offset on the OEM 20" wheels was also 35mm, then your "new" tire is 15 mm closer to the strut, and 15 mm further outward compared to your stock tire. You might just be able to stay within the wheel well, but actual measurements on your Edge would be preferable. Don't think this is an issue, but I'd keep an eye on tire wear with a wider tire, make sure it is properly inflated, no sags. Wider tires are better for summer driving conditions in general, but in challenging conditions, you want to "cut through" the rain/sleet/snow/ice, hence more weight/unit area (i.e., narrower tire) is preferable at that time. HTH.

May be able to get it back as a salvage title, but from the looks of it, definitely totaled. Cars are built nowadays to sacrifice themselves for the passengers, so getting them back into primo condition usually means a boatload of $$$. Sorry, I know you did not want to hear that. I know I wouldn't.

There is a member on here looking for the strips to exchange for the rails he currently has. FYI.

What tires do you have, normc? Scorpions?

If you look at the "flower rims" for the 2013 SHO w/ PP, you will see them painted on the inside of the spokes. One gentleman took that idea to his 2011 wheels and painted the inside of the spokes body color. That looked really neat. I'd rather do that than the entire wheel.

Do an autopsy on the throttle body if you get the chance, 12Edge. I would like to get your opinion on its' construction & possible problem areas TIA.

Wowza, freaky 4 sure!

Let your mechanic buy the transfer case from Levittown and tell him you know how much it should cost. I don't see why you would pay $900+ just for a 1 year mechanic's warranty, since you are paying labor separately. Or have a Ford dealership install it if it is cheaper, you do get a 1 year warranty standard, I believe. If getting it done at a Ford dealership, negotiate the price on the part to at least get a discount if not match the online price from Levittown.

Put the OEMs back in if you can to buy time to diagnose the problem. EDIT: Hope the Morimotos solved the issue!

Levittown is a Ford dealer, so is Tasca. I was referring to OEM parts only. Use the pricing you get from these two to leverage a better parts price at the servicing dealership. About $610 shipped for 2007-2013 models from Levittown. About $650 shipped from Tasca on EBay. Part of the problem buying used is the chance you take with the service history, sadly, so you build that into the negotiated price. But yeah, it s***s to have problems so early on into the ownership cycle From my readings on this forum, the other 3 things to keep an eye out for are 1) axle seal leaks, 2) throttle body failure, and 3) door latch/door ajar warnings. Hopefully with PTU replacement, the possibility of #1 will also be taken care of for a while. Not meant to scare, but to inform.

Have you directly asked the dealership to replace the throttle body? You may have to find a cooperative dealership to get this done. Definitely escalate with Ford directly. Todd is on here repping them, and can help you out. Worst comes to worst, get a new unit yourself and have it installed. I know it feels like a cop-out, but it IS a question of how safe you feel.

I assume this was a Ford dealership, and they were referring to the PTU. Did they find metal particles in the PTU fluid (not transmission fluid) that indicated PTU (Power TakeOff Unit or Power Transfer Unit) failure? The PTU is a known "weak" point in the AWD powertrain, as the fluid can get overheated and thus lose its' lubrication qualities. If the sound was coming from the rear, it would be the RDU (Rear Differential Unit) that is being referred to. Same issue, but much less likely in general. Normally, getting a used part from the junkyard would be OK, but with these, new is preferable. These things ARE expensive, though you can get the part cheaper through online shopping such as Levittown Ford SuperCenter (supporting vendor on here), or EBay/Tasca Auto Parts. Maybe you can even leverage that price with your local servicing dealership.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-HID-Kits-Relay-Capactior-Warning-Error-Canceller-Decoder-Anti-Flicker-/261257084303 Are you planning to install this, Wizard? http://www.vleds.com/headlights/led-headlights/5k-white-cxa-9006.html

Stuck with that irritating door latch/door ajar warning problem? 12Edge walks you through the replacement process: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14262-how-to-replace-door-latch-module-for-door-ajar-warning/

Keep 'em coming, 12Edge. Your How-To's are quite the read.

Souveran is meant more for garage queens. It won't take the weather. 845 (or even better, 915), on the other hand, won't provide that lustre that Souveran does, but it is a workhorse where protection & durability are desired.

Maybe get a strong suction cup on it?

I would stick with engines from the 07-10 Edge (no MKX) model years to minimize any installation issues.

Looks great!

Considering that the move is towards not having user-serviceable parts, not surprising. Here is RepairPal's estimate for this work: RepairPrice EstimateTM $2200 to $2853 Customized for your location How much should I pay? Estimate includes: Labor $1803-$2300 Parts (excludes tax & fees) $397-$553 Parts IncludedEngine Oil/Oil Drain Plug Gasket /Oil Filter/Coolant/Head Gasket Set/Gasket Sealer

Hmmm. From this video, looks like you have to pull off the old emblem, push in the new: