WWWPerfA_ZN0W

still meets the A spec http://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-5w20 https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-5w-20/

Might be a Ti-VCT, which would not be a dropin. You can look for Mazda CX9 3.7 engines of similar vintage which are VCT and would be dropin.

Summit has been solid for me as well.

I have not used this particular aspect of his service portfolio. But members of our FB page have.

First time I have heard of this issue on a similar vehicle. But usually means the fan control module has failed, and it is time to replace the fan assembly. May be a short in the fan motor as well. Is the fan noisy? There is an SSM for this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G2gSkgUSAREfsUgoYPasDAuitNEkvnZX/view?usp=sharing A failing battery MAY cause this as well, but I don't see how. Worth a check tho. Your disconnection of the battery overnight also a) reset the pcm, and b) allowed the pcm to relearn the battery.

@2011edgese do you drive special operating conditions regularly or do you have a good mix of highway/city driving? Do you use a battery tender to top up regularly? Are you in the deep south? Motorcraft brand or ...? Sounds like enough deep discharge cycles are on the battery to drain in 2.5 years.

Contact Jeff Leeper at either of these 2 places: https://www.fxbgkeys.com https://www.facebook.com/fxbgkeys/ He will get it done. You don't even have to mail your (only) fob to him. Give it a go!

better off without chrome clads lol. bling 4 sure but maintenance can become a hassle as miles, grime, and curb rash pile on. the alignment looks spot-on. so, on the surface, it all looks good except for all the issues mentioned ? i would check the wheel bearings per tsb. if only one side is bad, replace both. oftentimes, 1 wear item will wear out another wear item (transferred stress). so the work the dealer did may be a-ok, but the result may expose something needing changed.

this one? HVAC Blower Control Switch 7T4Z-18578-A Fan Switch Edge. Without dual zone ac. $21.00 $13.28

Yes, tires are king, no matter the drive or the electronic wizardry. If the foundation is strong, you can achieve more Don't forget suspension as well. Nokian Hakkas for winter and WRGs for all weather are good choices. You could also opt to put on "truck" tires that have the 3 peak symbol on them. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=125

Motorcraft brand booster? Any lights on the dash? Do all the wheels seem to lock up or just the fronts/rears?

@Edgingage Fighting the steering wheel may be an alignment issue or a tire issue. If it started after the alignment, then maybe a second opinion is needed. Do you have the results of the alignment available to post? Clicking may have different etiologies. If your vehicle has chrome clads, they may have dirt/grime buildup that needs removal. Check the CV joints, grease may be leaking. or you may need a different circlip on the hubs. If the clicking is not continuous, it is not likely to be a serious issue. It could even be suspension related, that would be fixed with new strut mounts.

It is normal if a) they do not have an option to power down, or b) they do have an option and that option has not been activated by the owner. If the power draw is high enough, it could place a strain on the battery even during the timeout interval omar mentioned above. If the battery is already weakening, then you have a double whammy. Check with a Solar BA7 type tester to be sure.

OK, I see where Ford updated their compatibility document in August (prev doc was from July 2020). So YELLOW is basically "universal" for the Edge/MKX/Nautilus platform. https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf

2015 factory manual may be of some help when it comes to replacing parts https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1wBzOTmEZvCvnzvmTI470QBGyYX60xDBh

Ron has provided enough detail above. YELLOW is NOT universal. Bottomline.

The switch may be blown. PIDs are how module functions are monitored. You need an OBD II adapter + Forscan Lite software to monitor PID data. Plug the adapter into the OBD port under the dash, load up the software on your smartphone/tablet, connect the software to the adapter, add a PID to monitor data (in this case, the PID is LT_SW). Check to see what the PID states each time you change the position of the switch. It should correspond. There are videos on YT on how to set up and use Forscan Lite, if you want to do this.

hid or halogen? did you change from halogen to hid/led? changing from halogen to hid especially in some cases can cause the BCM to overload, probably a protection transistor or diode that blew. The FLM/headlamp switch could still be at fault. While moving the headlamp switch through all positions, monitor the FLM headlamp switch input PID (LT_SW). Do the headlamp switch positions agree with the PID? Yes GO to C4 . No INSTALL a new FLM

Check for codes first. You should use a scanner that reads both HS-CAN and MS-CAN buses. May be a fault in the FLM (headlight switch) or something deeper. The clicking is the shutters that change the headlights from "low" to "high" mode, can you see them move at all? Do you have manual or auto headlamps?

It's a bit harder to diagnose on vehicles equipped with systems that use the steering wheel to warn you of potential problems. BUT given that this happens at this particular speed, I would have to agree, look for hardware issues, ALONG WITH any codes that might be stored. A faulty warning system may be "permanently" on. What tires did you put on, and what did they replace? Inspect all the bushings (sway bar, control arm, ..) and tie rods in particular, inner and outer, in addition to the tires. Are the lug nuts possibly torqued incorrectly?

WHAT? Your guys are WAY confused. There is no UNIVERSAL coolant from Ford as yet. And YELLOW is compatible with ORANGE but only if ORANGE is flushed out first, or added to ORANGE in small quantities. https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Products/List?cid=10 Dealers aren't necessarily the authority on everything. Sadly.

FWD is easier than AWD, but yes, with your skill level, you can DIY. Just be sure to have the tools you need on hand ("rent" from parts stores), read the factory instructions thoroughly, and as ezndo said, use OEM axles. Buck Newby has a nice YT channel, and he does have some tips for both driver and pass side axles that you may find helpful. You can always PM him on this forum. https://www.youtube.com/user/buckn32/videos

Miles on your Edge? The easy things to do are to check the fuse (I am sure that is not it tho), and to pull the module and check all the pins and connector for dirt/grime/water/shorts etc. Maybe all hope is not lost yet.

Did you see the comment above? Alternatively, do an ABS Bleed service function with Forscan Lite. May need to follow up with a main system bleed if still some issues remaining.

almost forgot ... be careful to remove only the necessary bolts from the valve body ... unless you want to play eenie meenie mynie moe with the check balls