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Awesome! Could have been a momentary surge in the electrical system that blew the switch, IDK.

Figured since this is a handy DIYer's reference, might as well include it here (thanks, ls973800!): http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/?do=findComment&comment=103079

Nice to know!

See if the online manuals have anything that may help you http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/?do=findComment&comment=103079

If it is really an adhesive material, then goo-gone or similar product should work fine. If it is road tar type material, then using Tar-X or Tarminator (don't mind smells, do you?) should work well.

Enough gap in Sport wheels, not enough in SEL zillion-spoke wheels!

Pretty similar to mine. I believe it is called a sail panel. Maybe it can be filed off, but don't know how thick that plastic is.

Thanks, akirby and omar302! I do like the sound of "100 percent power to the back". Wonder if that will come into play with brake-launching

Will they hook up AWD to anything but the 3.5L (assuming AWD is still available)?

No idea, but it sounds like an engine splash shield like in this link: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6jivr-ford-edge-2011-replacement-undercarriage-cover-shroud.html Pics?

How much time did it take you, frebrd, and what skill level would you say this this job requires?

Still no official word on powertrains

Hope it works out, CinnamonEdge! Maybe try another body shop? Levittown has a good reputation for service (not sure about Tasca's, haven't heard).

Good luck!

This was just recently discussed. Lubricating the rails etc should help resolve the problem. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14977-moonroof-sunshade-stopped-working/?do=findComment&comment=114606

Is it louder when turning left, or when turning right? That would indicate a bad bearing on the opposite side.

akirby or Waldo or ... may have the answer to the production cycle question. I know it's been discussed on here before.

It could be that the order was placed late in the cycle, and then for some reason, the customer who ordered it changed their mind (one of the possible scenarios).

Not sure on the self test, I think a service shop/dealer has to run that. Did you pull codes while the engine was running/while you were driving? Sometimes they don't get set in permanent memory.

According to the manual, you should run the PCM self-test, pull codes if any. A/C pressure switch (ACPSW) or ACP transducer sensor circuits may be involved. EDIT: Found this thread that I think will help - http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12731-radiator-fan-assembly-replacement-procedure/

Awesome! Enjoy

Actually, you are fine with a 3157 bulb, as 33/3457 bulbs use MORE wattage than a 3157. Do you know the wattage rating for your LEDs? I didn't see it mentioned in the EBay listing. As long as it is under 24-25 watts, no problem. The seller is pretty responsive (personal experience) if you need to contact them.

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new Edge! Great story and glad you could get a great deal. Ruby red IS a striking color, and the wheel styling does grow on you Do you by any chance know the production date on your Edge? You can run the VIN here http://www.etis.ford.com/ to find out. Only curious to see how long it's been on the lot for battery life reasons. Usually, with a brand new battery you can get 3 years out of it.

I had occasion yesterday to really step on the brakes, and they did not disappoint. No uphill/downhill driving though. Bought the kit K2829 from autoanything, $314 shipped. Their prices have gone up and discounts down since I purchased it, may have better luck calling them up (sometimes 20% discount is available!). Amazon is giving a better price at the moment.

Atlantan, any updates? DB1331: Given enough time, the catalytic converters can be damaged by running rich (you noticed the lower mpg). Since the dealer hasn't quantified how bad this problem is, I'd insist on an ASAP replacement. Cats are covered under extended warranty (emissions), so not an issue cost-wise. I don't want to suggest looking up the part(s) yourself (DY1182 front, DY1163 rear) & getting it replaced (should all be under warranty), but maybe pursuing with a different dealer, or getting stock from a different/local dealer. For all you know, you could have a leaky injector (fairly rare), but let's roll with the diagnosis for now. Try talking to the service manager (even the GM) directly. If that fails, talk to Ford National Customer Service (we have a rep on here (Tricia)). This dealer in Houston may work for you (parts anyway): Tommie Vaughn Motors, Inc. 1145 North Shepherd Houston, TX 77008