WWWPerfA_ZN0W

the bottoms of the doors are designed to be used for drainage. if anything, i would claybar the area, get it really clean, then hit it with a few rounds of clearcoat 2x or something similar.

Ramps work fine for drain/fills. You may not have gotten all the fluid out, but you have assuredly put the necessary amount back in. I assume you used the drain plug to drain the fluid and not out the fill hole.

first drain/fill? did you put the exact same amount back in and did it flow out of the fill hole? if not, add till it comes out the fill hole. likely underfilled at factory.

Post pics of the problem area. Could be a flex pipe issue, fairly common in this generation.

Very strange. When you talk about windows, are you referring to the vents in the dashboard? Blend door actuator only controls temperature not airflow, so that is not the issue. Should not be a mode door (which controls direction of airflow) either, but there are 3 of them IIRC. So if they fail in combination, I suppose it could happen. I would first check to make sure the cabin air filter is clean and unobstructed. Take it out and run the blower motor. If the motor is running, and at multiple speeds on demand, there could be obstructions in the vents. Mice and such.

IDK how much time it would take, but repairpal estimates 4-500$ in labor costs, so 4-5 hrs for a pro to do it. https://repairpal.com/estimator Usually some additional small parts are required to be replaced with these injectors, so you will need to grab a copy of the factory procedure. Cost - about 250+shipping/taxes https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,edge,2.0l+l4+turbocharged,3310416,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Although not typical for a coolant related issue, have you been tracking coolant level in the reservoir/degas bottle? If it has been steadily and appreciably declining, you could have a problem. How many miles do you have on your 2017? Fuel injectors should set P020x codes, but they typically come late in the day for GDI injectors. I have seen many fail without an error code being set. So is it possible? Yes. If you change 1 injector, change them all.

invested in some serious masks i hope!

If you use Mercon LV fluid, expect it to brown pretty quickly. Pretty normal. You will need to complete at least 4 drain/fills to get the brown-age out and the red/pink back in. Not a big deal as long as the fluid smells normal and contains no debris. If you had used Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic MultiVehicle fluid however, it would have stayed red, like Mercon V does. Avoid chemical cleaning, generally no need for it. Yes, it costs money to do the fluid service, but much cheaper DIY, and gives your trans a long happy life

good call. best of luck, and let us know how you make out!

have you checked codes? that is a necessary first step. could be a failing injector. Year and miles?

where can we look up the ST track times to compare? tia.

Do you have AWD? def check the PTU and RDU fluid level and condition. Check codes to see what might be set. Could be trans related, or may just need new coils/plugs. Changing fluids as mentioned above is also a top priority. Note color/level/condition of each one. Sounds like an electronic issue to me a la throttle body, but let's see ...

get a pro opinion on what can be done. if you want diy protection for the chassis, Fluid Film, Woolwax and other such products will help stop the process from going further. Yearly re-application recommended. surface rust is very common, so to stop it, you have to apply protectant basically when the vehicle is new. avoid rubberized undercoatings. they trap moisture. More rustproofing related videos on his channel. Worth watching. MACT will also be putting out a video soon on how he rustproofed the chassis on his vehicles just recently. Channel link in my sig below.

https://www.michelinman.com/searchshow?prefn1=tireDiameter&prefv1=21&prefn2=tireSize&prefv2=295%2F35R21%2FXL 107Y

just the bearing.

Yes please, if you could. That would be an immense help. But struts/mounts are WELL overdue. I would start there first. Have the wheel bearings been replaced? Could be something else in the suspension/steering has worn down also, at that mileage pretty much every moving part is suspect.

Very nice. Congrats!

Mileage on your vehicle? When were struts/strut mounts last replaced? Ditto for lower control arms and sway bar links. Could be brakes or hubs (circlips) too if more like "plink" sound.

as a gauge of how long the sensors can last, I have OEM band style sensors on my 2007, and may just be losing one now lol. time to see if retraining them works!

My sincere sympathies. I had made a spoiler for my Tempo decades ago, but that was a cakewalk compared to this!

Unfortunately, it is too early to provide a reliabiity rating on the SN+ full synthetic oils, as mileage has yet to accumulate on most of its' users. If you look at the makeup of the virgin oils, they look like clones LOL. So for normal oil change intervals, any full synthetic that has the SN+ certification should do just fine. If you get into extended interval changes, or if you drive your vehicle hard, that's where the differentiation is. Also recommend using a quality full synthetic filter when available, if not using OEM Motorcraft 910S.

Yeah it's Warren oil, probably near identical to SuperTech. Not that there is much to be gleaned anymore, being SN+ https://pqia.org/kirkland-signature-full-synthetic-sae-5w-30-motor-oil/

Nice. It's not easy making molds lol. What material are you using?

The IOLM is pretty decent, but it's good to be a bit conservative when it comes to Ecoboost engines. They are hot running critters, and like their oil changes earlier than "normal". Improves longevity of every part it touches ... including the turbo(s).