WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Let's hope you spot it again, with pix this time

Would be nice to get some reviews in from the press.

Well, they compared AWD with FWD, bigger & heavier wheels definitely a drag, and it's MotorTrend testing. A few people have tested and gotten times of 6.6 seconds 0-60, with traction control off I believe. At least the skidpad numbers bear out. The suspension in the Sport works well. Would have been nice if they had a brake upgrade to go with it

Chuckie FTW!!! Hah.

Good luck, friend!

One of our members recently pulled the covers off & had the wheels powdercoated. Another option

Welcome to the community, glad to have you and your '14 Edge here! Gave up your '13 SHO, due to smallish back seat? The Ingot Silver is a great color, hope to see some pics of the Edge soon, and the Mustang too!

Pics in action?

Sounds like a faulty BCM or compromised wiring. Did the dealer pull codes to see what, if anything, was recorded?

The only other application I have seen is an air bag suspension as Friegorgeous has done. You could cut the OEM coils, but not recommended. No interest in coilovers either, so nobody's manufacturing any. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13249-here-it-isthe-first-ever-bagged-edge/

Couldn't agree more! I don't think mechanics have access to the Internet at work though, probably to keep them from "surfing". Anyone know?

Sorry to hear about the bad experience! You had every right to be indignant, and especially if the AC function is not fully restored. Did they charge the system fully? As for the recall, not to take their side, but some recalls are check and replace only if needed. Kind of like the recent halfshaft recall. So hard to pin anything on them if so.

There is a way to vacuum out the evaporator core listed in TSB 11-9-6, but you will have to remove the blower motor to do so. After vacuuming thoroughly, the coil cleaning product might be usable. Taken from the free Chilton's online manual for the '11 Edge: http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/ContentDelivery.aspx?ca=Repair#1411968|937660 Blower Motor Removal and Installation Remove the RH lower instrument panel insulator. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector. Remove the 3 blower motor screws. Remove the blower motor. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Yeah, I bet! I would have to find and use a cheap, non-household oven to do this, maybe in the garage or outdoors

Interesting product, and made right here in the USA Might get one in time for next gardening season!

Very nice! Did you also take the housing apart & paint?

No PTU in FWD, so no headache for you Gas Mileage: Remember to reset your trip and mpg meters at the same time to get your current mileage (automatically, and manual calculation as well). Maintenance: Probably little maintenance at this time, other than oil change/filter, air filter, and cabin filter. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner If you really want tiptop shape, coolant and brake fluid flush is recommended (30K interval on modern cars is still recommended by reputable mechanics). A bit early for spark plugs, maybe at 75K miles? Could pull one or two in the front for inspection (and careful reinstallation). Check brake pad/rotor for wear, replace as necessary. Check tires for proper wear, rotate/replace as necessary. How are your headlamps performing? May need to replace at least the driving lights, if not the high beams or fog lamps. HTH.

I'd say you should need only to replace the OSS and TSS sensors. No sense in just doing one only to have to get the other one shortly after. Sometimes you will also get a Speedo/Odo error warning. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0720 Transmission should be fine.

Welcome to you and your '10 Edge First Ford? Looking forward to your participation & experiences with the Edge!

Welcome to the forum, elvisfan, glad you and your '13 Edge are here Ford tends to do well with the blue paint schemes and this is no exception. Nice badging, the PVD chrome looks great!

PIAA wiper blades? And here I thought they only did lighting!

If you are happy with the 74 AH battery performance in your environmental conditions, get another one! The bigger battery should give you more reserve time and more CCAs, but it's not a must-have unless you upgrade to more power-hungry electronics.

Since air will be drawn in through the cowl and there on into the cabin, spraying Lysol into the cowl will draw it into contact with the surfaces the air is exposed to. Removing the cabin filter during this time would be a good idea also to maximize the effectiveness of this method. Not sure if there is an easy way to get the foaming cleaner into the heater/evaporator core housing other than through the cowl. Possibly a long tube attached to the can and snaked in through the cowl on the passenger side? I was thinking there might be access on the right hand side where the blower fan/filter assembly is located, but I'll have to check. See Figure 1 Item Part Number Description 1 N806113 LH rear footwell duct pin-type retainer (5 required) 2 18C420 LH rear footwell duct 3 N806113 RH rear footwell duct front pin-type retainer (2 required) 4 19728 Evaporator drain tube See Figure 2 Item Part Number Description 5 W525859 Heater hose clamp (2 required) 6 W707142 Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) fitting nut 7 19E889 O-ring seal (2 required) 8 W709450 Heater core and evaporator core housing nut (5 required) 9 19B555 Heater core and evaporator core housing

Welcome, Jason! Hopefully you will get the volunteer(s) you need. Maybe thirdgenlxi will also chime in if he has time (Ford Master Tech).

Goes to show. When replacing brake pads/rotors, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, clean everything around them. It is your opportunity to fix anything that cause less than optimal function.