WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Pretty darned long power outage at the dealership, glad they figured out the ON switch! Good luck, and keep us apprised.

Sorry to hear you are having this issue. But from what you have posted, the response is a normal one from a service center. Should this issue exist on a relatively-low mileage vehicle? No. But these days, I think you will find these issues exist with pretty much every brand out there, seems to be almost modus operandi nowadays. If you like, you can work with our on-board Ford Cust Svc rep (Todd/Tricia), give them the service history, and see how they might be able to help you. You do need 5 posts to use the PM facility, and can use the Test Forum to get to that post count.

Good luck!

Possibly the pad is not seated properly, or less likely, the piston is sticking a little. When were the brakes last serviced?

If the brakes are mushy, and parts have been verified to be operational, I'd suspect air in the system, and brakes not having been bled properly. Sometimes air gets stuck in the ABS pump, and you need to have an ABS bleeder to get it out.

Make 3 more posts to get to the 5 post minimum to be able to use the PM feature. You can make test posts in the Test Forum

Welcome & congrats!

Check Engine Light with low FPR code? p0087? Did you also get the Wrench light? Service Advancetrak warning? Could be the fuel pump, fuel filter, or an electronic issue like a ground or resistor. Also saw this TSB, though the DTCs are unrelated. TSB 13-9-8_2.0L GTDI ENGINE-DRIVABILITY CONCERNS-DTCS P0128-P0106 OR P0236.pdf

The solenoid is what used to go bad on older vehicles (read 90's), have no idea on the valve itself. Maybe pull off the hoses see if there is blockage? Don't know if it could be cleaned out.

Unless someone has these backed up, these pics are lost due to deletion by owner. Sorry

The EVAP purge valve is located along the firewall, next to the brake fluid reservoir. Most of the EVAP components though are underneath the vehicle, including the Canister and Canister Vent Solenoid. Removal and Installation WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, which can cause a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquefied fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. NOTE: Correct placement of the hoist arm to the frame lifting point is essential for the removal and installation of the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister assembly. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Remove the 3 bolts, pushpin retainer and the evaporative emission (EVAP) shield. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid electrical connector.Disconnect the 2 quick connect couplings from the EVAP canister assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .Disconnect the EVAP vapor tube from the EVAP dust separator.Remove the 3 EVAP canister assembly bracket bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Release the EVAP canister assembly pushpin retainer and remove the EVAP canister assembly. NOTE: When installing the EVAP canister assembly, insert the alignment tab into the body first, then install the pushpin and 3 bolts. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Carry out a leak test. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission System Leak Test in this section. Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. ==================================================== Removal and Installation WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, which can cause a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquefied fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. NOTE: Correct placement of the hoist arm to the frame lifting point is essential for the removal and installation of the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister assembly. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Remove the 3 bolts, pushpin retainer and the evaporative emission (EVAP) shield. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid electrical connector.Disconnect the 2 quick connect couplings from the EVAP canister assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .Disconnect the EVAP vapor tube from the EVAP dust separator.Remove the 3 EVAP canister assembly bracket bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Release the EVAP canister assembly pushpin retainer and remove the EVAP canister assembly. NOTE: When installing the EVAP canister assembly, insert the alignment tab into the body first, then install the pushpin and 3 bolts. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Carry out a leak test. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission System Leak Test in this section. Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.

There has been some talk that cleaning & re-lubing the bearings and mounts can resolve the problem. Have the stabilizer bar and control arm bushings been checked?

I assume this is the TSB the dealer was referring to? http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=171187 REDUCTION OF POWER STEERING ASSIST DURING PARKING LOT MANEUVERS OR AFTER ENGINE START TSBID: 171187 Mfg Num: 10-21-1 Issue Date: 2010-10-15 Considering WHEN the TSB was released, they should have been well aware of the issue at the time of your initial AND last complaint. I feel that Ford SHOULD cover this repair under warranty, since you clearly had the system checked out before NVW expiration, and now only 2K past. Who expects PS pump replacement at < 40K miles? TSB 10-21-1_REDUCTION OF POWER STEERING ASSIST DURING PARKING LOT MANEUVERS OR AFTER ENGINE START.pdf

Driving without the filter can't be good for the engine in the long run. Probably should have some kind of sock at least over the intake nozzle, like Airaid does for their cone filters.

Good to know. Now I can tell them that Ford actually has instructions on adjusting the BDA

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the '14 Sport! Tuxedo Black? AWD/FWD? At least the wheels will be easier to clean than the 17 or 18 inchers

I would think so, as long as you have access to a proper lift. Lookup the removal/installation process in the free online Chilton's via the INFOTRAC url at http://hmcpl.org/databases/auto-repair-reference-center That link is not working right now, may have been shut down. Recommended you change both TSS & OSS at the same time, you are in the area anyway. 2007 Ford Edge_TSS & OSS Sensor Replacement Procedure.PDF

Don't know if it is normal, but mine does the same thing (left side bezel has less airflow seemingly than right side). The dealership says it's working fine. I think I read on the forum somewhere that foam can come loose and cause this, have to pop out the bezels to see.

One of the best switchouts is the DTBL kit. You may be able to find good lighting yourself, but probably not of the same quality.

I believe there are a few HOW-TOS on the forum about using your own bulbs in the puddle lamp housing. For example: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2325-led-puddle-lamps-home-made/

In the intermin, if you have ExtraCare or better ESP warranty, the Fuel Tank & Metal Lines coverage should take care of ya.

A good DIY service yearly or biennially? Point to ponder.

Welcome, Colin. What year Edge do you have? 2011+? The high/low beam is controlled by a shutter, which is not affected by the Morimoto upgrade. So yes, you will retain low and high beam functionality.

Good point! Using the EBrake when parked was taught as good practice in driver's ed ages ago. Hopefully still true today.

Back to work with you!!! (cracks whip)