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Relatively quick (5 minute) install of Weathertech window visors (dark smoke). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12367-rain-water/?do=findComment&comment=119032

Installed the Weathertechs today. The fit is very tight, so you have to be cautious during installation not to scratch up your paint etc. For the fronts, I inserted the rear portion first into the channel, angled so that the front portion of the "boomerang" cleared the mirror. Keep a grip on both ends at all times to prevent it from wandering. Once the rear and middle portions are inserted, carefully work in the front portion (be patient). The bottom edge will come to rest on the weatherstrip. The rear windows were much easier to do, no mirrors to deal with CAREFULLY work your windows up to the newly installed visors and make sure there is no interference. If there is, keep a slight outward pressure on the visor so the window gets past that initial resistance. Close all the way, slowly & carefully. Leave the windows closed for some time to let the arrangement settle into the final position.

If you want to DIY the door latch issue, try spraying electronics cleaner liberally into the latch area. It will clean up any gunk on the switch, and hopefully the problem, until you can get it replaced (if you need to).

Could be a Body Control Module (BCM) issue, causing a power drain that kills even a new battery. Assuming their diagnosis of the charging system is correct. The new battery could be a dud or underpowered. Is the WalMart battery a type 59 or 65 or ... Specs?

The very least that should be done is to update the PCM programming to allow the TB to be caught in the act of failure, and issue an alert to all owners (2011+ ?) to have their PCM updated immediately. The people who may have experienced this problem are not necessarily restricted to this forum, and may not be aware of the solution. Being proactive now could put Ford in a very defensible position should a serious incident occur as a result of this flaw. If we are going to rely on computers to tell us the problem, let's get the programming right in the first place (Windows updates, anyone?).

Welcome, glad to have you and your '13 Edge on board Lucky, being so close to Jared! What's your experience been like with the Edge so far?

Did you get an Autocheck/Carfax history? To see if there have been any collisions? How much repainting? Have them check struts & motor mounts while they have it.

Did you tape it up or put some dielectric grease on it to prevent future issues?

But if we had bagged suspensions like Friegorgeous, we could resist high winds too LOL

By my calculations, take out 2.2 quarts of the existing coolant in the engine, and add in 2.2 quarts of the 90/10 concentrated coolant. That should get you to 50/50.

The extension is not "preventive maintenance". Unless you have visual confirmation that the booster is bad, or experience the symptoms described, there is no reason to replace the booster.

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the '11 SEL. Pix, else you got a Yugo Doors rattle already? How many miles on the Edge?

From the OM, pg 56: there is an OFF button (an O with a vertical line thru it) in the center at the 10-12 o'clock position. Press to activate/deactivate the climate control system. When the system is off, outside air is prevented from entering the vehicle through the vents. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2011-Ford-Edge-SE-Sport-CD-Radio-Climate-Control-Panel-Unit-Center-Console-/150708392899

Based on my '07: There should be an OFF setting on the dial (rightmost on mine, knob in vertical position = OFF) that allows you to select venting positions. Make sure it's OFF everytime, and you should be good!

Welcome to the forum, FDXGUY, congrats on the '11 Edge Tell us the secret story behind this acquisition, and post some pix when you get a chance (of the Edge and other rides too!).

Most likely a faulty gearshift lever or switch. Dealership should be able to fix it easily.

There are no more flasher units/relays. All this is integrated into the Body Control Module (BCM). So you have to abide by the rules it expects followed.

As far as I know, they are removed as one piece, so yeah, you are looking at replacing the entire arm, not just the bushing.

Your hard work is paying off! But might consider sanding it down, priming with rust converting primer and repainting that section. Probably easily outpace the factory jobber.

ONLY use distilled water to dilute. According to the U.S. manual, 80% or less of the coolant is drained by opening the radiator petcock. Assuming that was 50/50 originally, you would be left with 0,2 x 11.7 quarts or 2.34 quarts of 50/50 in the engine. So you would need 9.36 quarts to fill it back up with 50/50. 4 quarts of concentrated + distilled water used to fill line = 5.36 quarts of water or 43/57 ratio of coolant to water, lower than what you want. Final ratio = 44/56. So you need to pump out a little bit of the coolant mix in the system and put some more concentrated coolant in. Take out 1.3 quarts of the existing coolant mix, add 1.3 quarts of the concentrated coolant, and you will have your near 50/50 mix. Get a coolant tester to see first if you need to do anything. The calculations are "theoretical", assuming perfect drain/fill. I believe Redline Water Wetter can also be used to improve coolant properties where there is too much water in the system, i.e., the ratio of coolant/water is too low. People run it with straight water even. But I recommend getting the 50/50 in there first. http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10 http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1096268-timing-bump-a-96-obd2-2.html#post10781678 FROM A US MANUAL (may be different for Middle East?) ENGINE COOLANT Checking engine coolant The concentration and level of engine coolant should be checked at the intervals listed in scheduled maintenance information. The coolant concentration should be maintained at 50/50 coolant and distilled water, which equates to a freeze point of -34°F (-36°C). Coolant concentration testing is possible with a hydrometer or antifreeze tester (such as the Rotunda Battery and Antifreeze Tester, 014–R1060). The level of coolant should be maintained at the “FULL COLD” level or within the “COLD FILL RANGE” in the coolant reservoir. If the level falls below, add coolant per the instructions in the Adding engine coolant section. Your vehicle was factory-filled with a 50/50 engine coolant and water concentration. If the concentration of coolant falls below 40% or above 60%, the engine parts could become damaged or not work properly. A 50–50 mixture of coolant and water provides the following: • Freeze protection down to -34°F (-36°C). • Boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protection against rust and other forms of corrosion. • Enables calibrated gauges to work properly

You can buy the Dorman fan assembly, people are using it successfully as replacement units.

Welcome to the community, and congrats on snagging the '13 Limited Any plans to mod it? First Ford? Love to see pix

Sound clip?

Could be a problem with the shutters being stuck. Have you taken it in for service?

Sorry to hear! Join your fellow owners who have experienced this here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12726-throttle-body-service-or-failure/ I would recommend reporting this directly to Ford via Ford Customer Service (on this site) or the tollfree number, and refer to an existing TSB for non-Edge models as reported in the thread above.