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Welcome to the community, congrats on your '08 SEL! Pics? If you are looking to mod just for mpg, it will be hard to recover the investment in short order, as you are looking at a minimum of $400 or so for a competent tuning device/tuner/tune. Say you are getting 20 mpg now, and the tune increases to 22 mpg. Instead of spending (12,000 mi/year, $3/gal) $1,800 in fuel, you will be spending about $1,637, saving you $163 yearly. So your payback period is approximately 2.5 years. If the cost of fuel is less (say $2/gal like I am paying right now), it becomes 3.5 years. Now, if you are looking for better shifting, the tune is definitely worth it. You are better served with: Changing air filter/oil/oil filter regularly. 5W20 part or full synthetic motor oil with the Motorcraft filter will do a fine job. Depending on mileage, change the spark plugs/PCV valve. Run a tankful or two with a quality Fuel Injection cleaner (BG or Techron) to clean out the injectors. Wheel alignment Tire pressures checked regularly, as colder weather can cause a drop of 10% or more Look at the throttle body plate make sure it's not sticking or gunky, clean if so Depending on mileage, drain/fill transmission fluid (no flushing) Recommend PTU fluid drain/fill if AWD Air filters/intakes: I wouldn't definitively say use other brands for any performance gains. Sound, definitely. Some folks have gotten their K&N and GreenFilter upgrades to work for them. An AEM DryFlow definitely makes the Edge sound more aggressive in-cabin. If you can, get the OEM Ford air filter, which I hear is a bit better than the Motorcraft replacement. Headlamps: Probably old bulbs in the Edge. Put in fresh ones, or replace them with LED 20/40 watt equivalents. Very easy. The only "difficult" ones are the fog lights, but a little patience will help. If the headlamp housing is pitted, consider having them polished for better clarity. But just as important, make sure the headlamps are aimed properly, often a reason for poor lighting/visibility. You can do it yourself following instructions in the owner's manual. Vent Visors: I have the inchannel Weathertech ones. Takes a bit of angling to get them in there. They look almost flush against the vehicle and work fine. I do always have a bit of trepidation when the window first comes up against them whether they will mate perfectly. Also, you will need to clean sand/grit regularly, as it does get caught with inchannel visors. Floor Mats: Very happy with my all-weather Weathertechs, only problem is with logos coming off. Others are using Husky liners with good success. HTH.

I do wonder if the filter were replaceable, how much difference it would make to the engine's operational efficiency. 1%? Less/more?

Where was the max effort expended? Unhooking the trans & sensors?

Front right AWD would be different due to the shaft interfacing with the PTU. So if you have AWD, pick that one.

Good thing it was a simple fix for the remote, I hear horror stories ALL the time Blackstone analysis? Cool! I am sure the results will be "golden"!

Hey Jared, heartfelt congrats on the new job, hope you all take to each other and it works out splendidly! I had no idea that dealer techs had to face the possibility of no paycheck. Will you have to wear some kind of uniform? Take some pics in it with the kiddos (I hope they know you will be a bit busy for a while!)

Looks like you have to have the dealer do this with their IDS system. From the 2007 Service Manual: When installing a new instrument cluster, it is necessary to upload the module configuration to the scan tool. NOTE: If a new instrument cluster is installed, download the configuration from the scan tool into the new instrument cluster. For additional information, refer to the programmable module installation in Section 418-01 . NOTE: If a new instrument cluster is installed, the instrument cluster and the PCM require a parameter reset to allow the instrument cluster and the PCM to recognize each other. Failure to carry out the parameter reset to the instrument cluster and the PCM may result in a no start condition. NOTE: The vehicles integrated keys (or standard passive anti-theft system [PATS] keys) must be programmed to the new instrument cluster.

Bleah! Hope you get a fair settlement from insurance, full replacement value.

So far, with the battery change, I only noticed 2 (temporary) things: Radio set to AM instead of FM Dashlighting dimmer very dim Both easily taken care of.

As far as disabling the AdvanceTrac, from the OM: The AdvanceTrac with RSC button, located on the center stack of the instrument panel, allows the driver to control certain features of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system below 45 mph (70 km/h). If the vehicle is below 45 mph (70 km/h), pressing the AdvanceTrac with RSC button will disable RSC, ESC and Engine Traction Control and steadily illuminate the “sliding car” icon. The AdvanceTrac with RSC system will remain enabled when the vehicle speed is above 45 mph (70 km/h) even if the button has been pressed. In R (Reverse), ABS and the Traction Control feature will continue to function, however ESC and RSC are disabled. All these conditions are normal during AdvanceTrac with RSC operation.

LOL!

Real looker ya got there, Jared, super jealous!

A tune might help out in this case. I don't think there's a hidden menu anywhere that will "revert" behavior back to the "olden" days.

There is a TSB or two that might be relevant to the issue at hand: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/Results?Year=2009&Make=54&Model=5858&AbSystem=a71 HARSH DRIVELINE CLUNK FELT AT LOW SPEED - BELOW 10 MPH - STOP AND GO DRIVING ON TIP IN - PERCEIVED HARSH 1-2 UPSHIFT OR 2-1 DOWNSHIFT TSBID: 146255 Mfg Num: 08-23-16 Issue Date: 2008-11-24 HARSH DRIVELINE CLUNK FELT AT LOW SPEED - BELOW 10 MPH - STOP AND GO DRIVING ON TIP IN - (COULD BE PERCEIVED AS A HARSH 1-2 UPSHIFT OR 2-1 DOWNSHIFT) - REVISED TSBID: 147402 Mfg Num: 08-26-13 Issue Date: 2009-01-05 6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION-SLIP/NEUTRAL OUT, 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP, ELECTRONIC PRNDL ERROR, BACKUP CAMERA IN D-BUILT 3/13/2009-6/30/2010 TSBID: 171188 Mfg Num: 10-21-2 Issue Date: 2010-10-18 6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLUGGISH ACCELERATION FROM 0-8 KM\H (0-5 MPH) FOLLOWED BY A HARSH BUMP OR A SLIP ON TAKE-OFF FOLLOWED BY A BUMP - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 4/15/2011 TSBID: 176597 Mfg Num: 11-12-10 Issue Date: 2011-12-19 6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLIP/NEUTRAL OUT - 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP - BACKUP CAMERA ON IN DRIVE - BUILT 3/13/2009-6/30/2010 TSBID: 180543 Mfg Num: 13-5-27 Issue Date: 2013-05-27

Perhaps we should invent a "Bullet Train Nose Cone mod" for high speed travel

Put in a new battery today (Autocraft Silver 36R, same as old one). Had some trouble with the terminals, didn't want to come loose at first. Put on some felt washers and anti-corrosion protection. Nice to hear it crank over fast Had terrible cranking times in near- to sub-freezing weather before.

Welcome to the forum, Mike! Glad to have you and your '11 SEL here Got pix to share? Any mods planned, or staying stock?

Could be a constricted fuel return/evap line causing the gas pump to click off early. Could be a a bad fuel level sensor/electrical connection also. Known problems with past MY Edge. Sounds like it was driven very little, so the FI cleaner should be a good idea. Don't use anything but BG or Techron, as they are proven to work. Also, it sounds due/overdue for an oil change, shouldn't go more than 6 months at most in between.

Is the latest software installed? http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=180484 Also, there is a TSB 14-0037 for this particular issue. GLOBAL POSITIONING SATELLITE MODULE (GPSM) NAVIGATION DISPLAY OFFSET OR INCORRECT POSITION BUILT ON OR BEFORE 1/6/2014 Image of TSB here

Liberties taken at car shows Either they didn't update the sticker in time, or the decision was made later to pull them (after the show prep was complete)?

How many miles did the Dodge truck have on it? Do you know when your Edge was "born"? How much idle/warmup time (a real mpg killer)? Remote start? Best to idle no more than 30 seconds before driving vehicle. Go here to info for your Edge, click on VEHICLE tab and enter the VIN, then SEARCH: http://www.etis.ford.com/ You should have a 19.2 gallon tank in the AWD. Even with 15mpg, you should have a M2E reading of approx 288, which is a couple of gallons off from the 260 you saw in the display. M2E is calculated based on latest mpg. I normally avg 22+ mpg on the highway (meaning a lot of time "cruising"), and 16-17 mpg city. These are wintertime numbers, after the 10% (or more) hit from winter fuel. It does take a while for the Edge to breakin. Have you had the oil changed yet? If not, that's the first thing I'd do, with Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft FL500S filter. Even if getting this done at the dealership, make sure that's what they put it. No telling what is in the engine right now or what the dealer puts into the vehicle. Next, I would try changing gas stations. Believe it or not, some vehicles are more sensitive to gas quality than others. Fill up at a high-volume station to make sure the fuel is not contaminated. Depending on how long the Edge has been sitting on the lot, you may want to run a bottle of Techron through the gas tank starting at the next fillup. Gas that just sits in the tank without a stabilizer is no good for the fuel system, and can gum up the lines/injectors. Tire pressure/wheel alignment should be checked. Colder weather can drop tire pressure significantly. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=73

Looks like you need a new shifter, and possibly a new wheel speed sensor or two.

If the rotors were resurfaced properly, I'd suspect the calipers more (sticking slide pins or rust in grooves). This video shows what I mean: Looking forward to what you find out, good luck!

How's the response when you get on it after a period of "no-touch" on the throttle? Any noticeable lag?

Check all cabling and grounds from the battery on down. Connections should be clean and tight, no corrosion/breakage/shorted wiring. If it all checks out, try replacing the battery. Not sure why #37 fuse made a difference. Did you try this again after the battery was tested? At this point, honestly, taking it into the shop (dealer) is the best advice, because there is only so much diagnosis that can happen over the internet, especially when it comes to wiring/electrical components. EDIT: Go through this thread and see if things begin to make sense to you: http://www.layitlow.com/forums/22-maintenance-repair/335022-how-can-you-tell-if-battery-tests-good-really-bad.html Finding a short/parasitic draw: