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Welcome to the forum, congrats on your '07 Edge! AWD/FWD? Where are you located, and what is the temperature when you are trying to start the car? What type/brand/capacity of battery is in there currently? Have you checked voltage between the terminals when everything is turned off and lights off/doors closed/key out of ignition? Are the cables tight on the terminals (no movement) and corrosion-free? Changed the oil recently? Does the engine have 5W20 in it? Radio is most likely kaput, and needs replacement. You have the EATC (electronic climate control)? The EATC unit could have failed, small possibility that the blend door actuator is at fault also. Any clicking noises at all? If there is a short in the EATC unit, it could be causing a parasitic draw from the battery also (causing startup issues). Grab EATC related DTCs here.

Thanks, mac, for putting in the time/effort

Quite possible. I think it is more because of the salt/dirt trapped in the snow belt states, which further means that the tanks need to be of better material/have better coatings, as stated. Not dissimilar from problems seen on other Ford vehicles: Doesn't mean this is exclusively a Ford problem, but at least the spotlight is on them.

I am trying to find out from an independent source what would be the right way to go. Because if the cylinder wall is compromised, you will have to replace the caliper itself. Can you hang on a little longer (might be a day or two before I get a response)? I hope other members will chime in as well soon. I gave you a hypothetical scenario with 4 pistons Since the shipping is so much, and the pistons cost so little, you could have spares on hand, for instance. You don't have to buy more than you need, but if you need other parts, you should consider getting them in the same order to minimize total (parts + shipping) cost.

No clue as to cross-compatibility with Mazda brakes, sorry.

Wow, a damaged piston on the caliper, don't see THAT often! Typical repair kits will not have this part, you can try to find it separately. I did find a generic how-to if you do find a replacement piston: http://www.lukekailburn.com/caliperrebuild.html http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4305927 Never ye mind, I found piston availability: I did find a generic piston for the rear: http://www.jcwhitney.com/brake-caliper-piston-by-centric/p3090175.jcwx?filterid=d17746y2008g34j1 And generic front/rear pistons from RockAuto (international shippers): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1441679,parttype,1724 For 4 front pistons, that would come to about US $65 total, for example, at RockAuto. Use this code 2769257022754207 in the How Did You Hear About Us box to get 5% off the parts cost through Feb 22, 2015. Not sure on the Ford OEM part (AT4Z2196A, I think), as the listing says FRONT, but the pic shows a REAR caliper setup.

Here's one: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13854-2010-leaking-gas-tank/

1L should be plenty, unless the brake fluid is heavily contaminated, in which case you might want to run extra fluid through the system while bleeding.

At least you survived the self-surgery Even when the car's not running, it can exact a price when DIY'ing. Due to the tight spaces, have to be ready to have your hand slip and still not move it more than a mm, tough to do!

Not very encouraging, hopefully just surface rust though!

Nice rides! Are those HRE wheels on the Mustang? How often do you do the Tail of the Dragon? We have a couple of SHO guys (one of whom rides a bike also) regularly visiting that "trail".

Right now, yes, for a reliable leading-edge product. And you can get them in 5000K and 6000K choices. EBay LEDs are generally 6000K only, last time I checked.

If you can do it, do everything at the same time, front & rear. I think it would be worth it.

At that mileage, you should replace both rotors and pads. OEM is fine, as mac said, rears are more important to do, as they carry more of the load in an AWD vehicle. Be sure to clean the grooves in the caliper brackets where the pad "ears" sit, and also grease the slide pins. If the brake fluid has never been replaced, have it flushed.

Welcome to the forum, congrats on your '08 SEL! AWD? Color? What are you looking to do to it? Pics?

That's it! Yer outta heah! J/K LOL. Welcome, glad to have you here, hope you get the HVAC up & running soon

Nice documentation! Def plan some downtime Good time to check/switch out BDA if they were acting up. Watching for continued progress, and good luck!

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the '08 SEL! Color? Mods in addition to wheels planned? Pics would be awesome

Think we are getting icing on the vehicles, maybe black ice on the asphalt, but not much else so far.

Try PM'ing him, might work better ...

omar302 once made a post on this, I believe. Some 2011's may have already come with a true dual exhaust, I have seen a couple of videos on YT with true duals. No idea on effects on power/torque, though by themselves, wouldn't gain much. Would need better downpipes to complete the path. Stock downpipes tend be relatively "twisted".

Alignment checked/done any time recently?

Points for awesome airflow We've all dillydallied on various maintenance items on our cars ...

Maybe a spray from the transmission cooler line while being disconnected that then had to be cleaned up? If the engine was warm/hot when the repair was done, the reaction would have been more likely to happen. Interesting, haven't heard of a valve body gasket replacement (at least on an Edge this young) before. Was a transmission TSB (11-12-10 I think) being performed? I see a "Auto Trans Valve Body ECU Gasket 6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7H200-A listed in that area. "Auto Trans Valve Body Access Cover Seal 6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7B329-B, and "Auto Trans Valve Body Oil Passage Seal6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7N266-A.

I hope Prinzll gets his Edge updated soon. He too faces the extreme conditions you do (in AZ), and is upgrading to LED lighting + lightbar. The LEDs he is using are from vLED. 4800 lumens each, IIRC.