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Fingers crossed and best wishes for a successful & speedy delivery!

Per the OM, you need a cartridge fuse (Look more like a printer cartridge). So neither of what you have in the pic you posted. I think you need to look for something like this: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1056862-ford-maxi-fuses-vs-cartridge-fuses.html#post10193351 The blue 20A 12V fuse would be what you need. Remember, the battery needs to be disconnected while you pull/replace these underhood fuses.

If your gut instinct hasn't failed you yet, it won't fail you now. Good luck, let us know what you decide.

Hope the due date actually arrives soon, and we all get to see the new addition to the family! How are the wife and son are holding up in the meantime? The Edge has GOT to be happy with the new RP running through its' veins. I should try it too, for now sticking with MC stock. Great idea putting in a USB hub too

This sounds like one of the "exception" cases where you you'd do well to continue keeping your documentation file, and at least have the name of a good attorney handy. Most of these recalls don't take into account "mixed address" vehicles, so having that file (and if need be, the attorney) at hand would be the proper thing to do. Of course, you still have to have the leak happening before any remedy can be applied. No leak, no fix.

Mounting brackets are helpful if you don't plan on velcroing the ballast to the vehicle. (Look around the forum for mounting ideas) They look like this: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HID-Bracket-Slim.Pair-of-Mounting-brackets-for-DDM-Ballasts The HID harness should definitely be used, I hope they have improved quality though. TRS harnesses have proven pretty reliable if the DDM doesn't work out.

Hyundai xxx? Did they say how long the wait is?

Welcome to the community, bmac, and congrats on the new addition to the family! C'mon post some pics of the Edge, along with the mods DDM and TRS offer the 2 most frequently installed/liked HID kits, but there are other good ones as well. With a 55W kit, you want a GOOD harness/relay with power coming straight from the battery, not via a fusebox. You can buy a DDM kit and install a TRS harness/relay, for instance. Dan at drivebright.com (DTBL) has recently started offering HID kits for the 2011+ Edge also, worthy of consideration.

Question is, is it the same exact design fuel tank that is promised to other customers affected by the recall? Even if they put the original design tank back in, hopefully they applied better rustproofing materials.

It is a bit tight due to placement and you are lifting the battery out at an angle to get a grip. Or you could use a battery lifter tool The stiff cabling could be ziptied or something out of the way to provide additional clearance.

Thoughts and pics please when you get these parts in, guys! If they are plastic, they might be "paintable" using the product CinnamonEdge recommended.

Can't count on anything unless it's formalized in legal writing. I highly recommend taking the Edge to another dealer at this point (lawsuit aside).

Make sure the spark plugs, transmission fluid, brake fluid and coolant have been recently changed. Don't fall for the "lifetime fluid" line.

Second akirby's idea, it's what I did If you do it yourself, the hardest part will be loosening the terminals, next up lifting the battery out of the tray. Don't need to mess with the air intake at all, just keep the positive cable out of the way while removing the battery.

If it's anything like the Edge/MKX, then no. You would need to take off the sail panel/triangular looking thingy on the inside of the door (right opposite the mirror) to get access to the electrical & mechanical connections.

Have you tried taking the Edge to another dealer or a Lincoln dealership? They may have better diagnositcs that will find the actual problem and get it fixed. Could be this Edge is a lemon, could be that the servicepersons looking at it so far haven't paid enough attention. Just a thought.

Clean looking parts! Good preventive maintenance ... how long did it take to do all this?

Yeah, it would!

Haven't had any problems with the ice/snow with the 18" multi-spoke wheels. A very good practical OEM choice

Started a trial run of Lubegard Fuel Booster today. Been noticing some hesitation to shift after engine/trans thoroughly warmed up (30 min or more). 104+ several tanks ago had a very positive effect on that issue. BTW, since I changed the vehicle battery, I no longer get the annoying ding for key in ignition when key is NOT in ignition & engine is off.

Still under warranty? Any pics you can provide of the battery and underneath as you look straight down? If you have not experienced any malfunction other than the battery dying, try replacing the battery first. Clean the cable ends thoroughly before attaching them to the new battery. If no wiring has been compromised by the acid (the only reason to replace the harness), you should be OK. If you don't feel sure about verifying it yourself, take it to a trusted mechanic.

Looks like a PAUSE button, maybe it allows you to stop recording trip data? I don't know why that'd be though. http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8065 http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/31-f150-ecoboost-problems/1028-snickers.html

Congrats, looks like you scored a real winner And welcome to the forum! Hope you enjoy both for many years to come.

Welcome, Brian! The last I heard of this particular problem is the vents under the bumper may not be operating correctly. Not necessarily a solution to fix/replace these, but worth a shot.

Does sound like wheel bearings to me as well. Is it more prominent turning to the left or right? Motorcraft, Timken, or SKF should all be good brands for this part. Front bearings here, can also find bearings & hubs on Rockauto.com, and on LevittownSuperFordCenter.com (Suspension & Steering, Front or Rear Suspension, Brake Components). The other possibility, IF you had AWD (which you don't), would have been the PTU since the problem just started out.