WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Congrats, mac! Waiting for requisite photoshoot

Maybe the teeth on the cog/pulley are broken? I dunno ... As far as the smell, I don't believe it is related, since it is in-cabin only: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15716-heat-has-a-weird-smell/?do=findComment&comment=119651

Time to get yourself a service manual! It's a very worthwhile investment. Since the fans were running, the water pump sounds like the culprit. A flitting-type sound?

Man, that sucks! Not cutting you any breaks, huh?

Looking forward to it

A quick search on the interwebz pulled up this vid: Here's the DI cleaner from BG: https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-gasoline-direct-injection-cleaner/ Find a shop that provides the service: http://www.bgfindashop.com/ This is a good interval to get the service done. The caveat is to see if you have TOO much carbon buildup to do it safely already, due to a poorly designed PCV system. That is where the shop should give you guidance. To be honest, a boroscopic examination of the valves should be conducted first.

Coolant has better antifreeze property, protecting down to 10F or so at 100% concentration. Water freezes at 32F at 100% concentration. http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/antifreeze-faq.htm 180F TStat is fine if that is all you can find. Engine will run cooler if what's in there is a 190F. Let's see what you pull out ... The Failsafe sounds better as it locks in open position when overheating occurs. That's what you want. The Duralast may also do that, but doesn't say so on the website.

You COULD use the undiluted antifreeze, but I certainly CANNOT recommend it. If the ambient temp is above 10F, you may have luck with it not being turned to a frozen mass. For temporary use, since you are considering a flush, you can use tap water instead of distilled if you HAVE to, but dilute to 70/30 at home, go out there, put the 70/30 in. Good question about the TStat temp. It might be 190 because the manual lists part number 8575, and that matches up with Motorcraft RT1228/RT1172, which are 190 TStats. But I can't say for sure. As long as the O-ring looks good, reuse it. Just coat it with fresh clean coolant before reinstall. OEM Part numbers here: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2009-ford-edge/thermostat-housing-related-parts.html

Is this the concentrated version (not the premixed 50/50)? You can mix it yourself to 70/30 with distilled water then add it to the degas bottle/reservoir. That would be the safe way without a tester handy. Those inexpensive testers are fine for ethylene glycol based coolant only, which this is. If you DO have a tester handy and know the strength of the coolant in the engine, then you can calculate your 70/30 more precisely.

Congrats are in order to you as well, cv27, a helpful dealer is a BIG asset to have, regardless of brand

Good one. Some cars have had their plugged sunroof drains cause leaks onto the passenger side carpeting.

Android or Apple or ...?

I am sure FordService (Tricia) can rescue you from these doldrums. How she sees your post soon! You can pm her directly once you have 5 posts (create 3 test posts in the Test Forum)

Photoshoot anyone? Kodiak Brown vs. Orange Crush, on the Primetime Blue Oval Channel!

Welcome to the forum, and hope you get your '15 Edge soon! What color did you go with? And how was/is your ownership experience with your '08?

Is the windshield cowling free of ice/snow/other obstructions when this happens? Cracking open a window or two makes no difference? Not sure how old exactly your Edge is, but is the cabin filter clean-ish?

Coolants differ in their chemistry, so using the wrong coolant will corrode your engine/radiator/pump/heater core etc. Always stick with Motorcraft specified for your make/model/model year of vehicle. I believe it is the yellow colored coolant (Motorcraft Premium Gold) for your Edge. You can use aftermarket coolant also, but it must specifically state as approved for WSS-M97B51-A1 standard. You DON'T want to run around with too little of the antifreeze in the mix, with the temperatures you guys are experiencing, and definitely not plain water (Water Wetter helps with boiling point, but not freezing point really). http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629 Draining is pretty simple. Let engine cool and turn it off; turn pressure relief cap on degas bottle (which may also be bad by the way) part way to release pressure. Then take off the cap, open radiator petcock (driver side location?) and drain. Only a partial drain will be obtained this way though. Dispose of properly. As far as refilling/bleeding, fill the degas bottle to the MAX FILL line. Tighten the cap back on. Run engine till operating temp is reached. Check coolant level. If it has dropped below the MIN FILL line, wait till engine has cooled down. Add coolant level to MAX FILL line. Repeat this process as needed. Next, start engine, heater at MAX position. Run at 2500 rpm for 10 minutes. If overheating occurs, shut off immediately. If level drops below MIN FILL line, wait till engine cools, then fill to MAX FILL again. Repeat as needed. As the manual says: WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

Well, I think changing the TStat should still be relatively straightforward, if you want to try that first.

Sorry to hear about your accident! Does sound like the sending unit is involved, dealership or service shop can check that out easily. And they can support your claim with the insurance co if need be.

Coolant level checks out OK? Radiator fans running normally? I would check those 2 things first. Did you disconnect any electrical connections in prior repairs and perhaps forget to reconnect?

Wow, that is CLEAN! Welcome to the community, Chaps, and congrats on the '12 Sport. Be sure to stretch its' legs and keep the battery charged For more information about your Edge, you can go to http://owner.ford.com or http://www.etis.ford.com

I hope so too! Good luck

Yeah, it s***s

Marikathryn, is the battery original to the Edge? Having it checked out professionally or with a professional tester would be the first thing I'd recommend. A lot of flaky things happen when the battery starts to give up the ghost. 2-3 years is a popular replacement interval for batteries supplied with the vehicle.

Probably all the wiring chewed by by that colony of meeses. Especially if any environmentally friendly materials were used. When we traded in the Blazer, it was primarily for paint issues starting to show and the trans not shifting too well.