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I would say they should check all the steering & suspension components for wear/damage while the shop has it. Here's an excerpt from another site: 1. drive the car down a flat, smooth road and get it going straight. If the steering wheel is off center, but the car goes perfectly straight you will need a toe adjustment. this could be caused by any suspension work or hitting a pot hole or any other thing. Don't force the wheel straight. some people do this and claim they have a pull, because the are not letting the Toe equalize (car moves and tires try to go straight and steering wheel turns as a result). I get the car going straight and let go of the wheel. if it still goes straight, and doesn't veer in another direction, but the wheel is off then it's just a toe adjustment. Try to find a road with not much road crown, so it doesn't make you think you have a rightward pull. 2. if you let go of the steering wheel and the car veers, or if you have to hold the steering wheel in a certain spot at all times to keep it going straight you have a pull. This is caused by a difference in camber/caster settings. basic rule is car pulls to the most positive camber, and the least amount of caster. solution for both is alignment. if you take it somewhere tell them what the problem is in you best words, this makes it easier for the tech. I forgot to add, you could also have out of spec suspension components such as ball joints, tie rods, or even a wheel bearing if it's really bad.

Probably MultiPurpose, IDK.

Been there before? Let us know how it goes!

Hah.

Had the Edge serviced. The Works, 2 new control arms, valve cover gaskets, timing cover gasket. And for the heart-stopping moment: the fuel tank recall, the inspection for which luckily got a passing grade

Updates???

Looks like a good choice, and an upcoming project for me I see you found a way to get your share of daughter-time

Welcome, Meagan, glad to have you here!

Installed the DTBL taillights on my '07 today. Definitely break the socket/wiring for the LED connection apart in 2 as instructed, Very difficult if not impossible to seat socket in taillight otherwise. Install the reverse bulb socket first, THEN the 3757 socket, at least for the RH taillight IME. Do wish I had a place to secure the unused socket, wrapped it around the remaining wiring to keep it from rolling around/rattling. I also did not like the styrofoam packaging, as there were bits of styrofoam everywhere that I had to vacuum up before installing. A 5/16" socket is needed to remove the bolts that hold the taillights in place. I'd also tape up the frame around where the taillight seats to prevent paint damage as you remove/install these units. And yes, suffering from the infamous burnt 3757 socket syndrome

Yet another divide you will have to contend with

Welcome, and congrats on landing yet another Ford customer As akirby said, SEARCH is your friend. You will come up with a lot of related links, so start off very generally, then narrow down to what you are really looking for. Assuming it is not a short or something where you have to look really deep into the system, the battery IS the first place to look. Is it original to the Edge? Is it 2-3 years or more of age? Any corrosion on the terminals? Are the terminals tightly connected? Have a professional load test done to get the CCAs. That should match the label on the battery very closely. If your driving is short/stop'n'go, the battery may not be getting fully charged. Other popular components known to cause issues: the BCM, the APIM, and of course devices left plugged into the power points and left on.

Oil is the lifeblood of the engine, so regular changes are a GOOD thing. And with all the highway mileage you put on the Edge, 4-6K is actually more like 3-4K in city/mixed driving. Which is what is recommended for conventional oils anyway. Any idea what brand conventional (not looking to turn this into BITOG, but good to know)?

Especially an American-built engine! Materials, control/feedback systems, and quality control

Looks sharp!

See ya bright & early Monday AM!

So far, so good!

Sure thing, good luck, let us know what you decide

Found a free manual online: http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/edge_awd/v6-3.5l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/water_pump/component_information/specifications/page_2271/

May need subframe alignment to fix, a la: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-suspension-specs-ford-focus/ Front Subframe: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Drifts/Pulls To The Right TSB 10-24-8 12/16/10 DRIFT/PULL TO THE RIGHT FORD: 2011 Edge LINCOLN: 2011 MKX ISSUE Some 2011 Edge and MKX vehicles may exhibit a drift/pull right concern even though the tire pressures and wheel alignment settings are within specifications. ACTION Follow the Service Procedure. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Partially raise vehicle. 2. Spin all wheels and inspect for brake drag. a. If brake drag is present, do not continue with this article. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 206-05, for normal diagnostics. b. If no brake drag is present, proceed to Step 3. 3. Swap front tires and wheels from side to side (LF to RF) and retest for a drift/pull to the right. a. If the concern is resolved, return vehicle to customer. b. If the concern is still present, proceed to Step 4. 4. Record wheel alignment settings to establish a baseline. 5. Remove the RH splash shield. Refer to WSM, Section 501-02. 6. Remove three (3) pushpin fasteners, seven (7) screws and the front splash shield. 7. Using a wax pencil, mark the position of the front subframe to the underbody at each of the mounting nut locations. 8. Remove the subframe mounting nuts, one at a time, and replace with new nuts leaving 2 threads exposed to allow for subframe movement. a. Negative cross caster and positive cross camber will reduce vehicle drift right. Increasing negative cross caster is preferred over positive cross camber. 9. Increase negative cross caster to achieve a minimum of -0.5 degrees, not to exceed -1.2 degrees cross caster. Increase positive cross camber to achieve a minimum of +0.6 degrees, not to exceed +1.2 degrees cross camber. Right hand camber not to exceed -1.2 degrees. a. To increase negative cross caster, rotate the subframe clockwise, as viewed from the bottom of the car, taking note of the left front subframe bushing and the right rear subframe bushing. For every 1 mm (1/32") of lateral movement outboard of both the left front and right rear subframe bushings, cross caster will increase by approximately 0.25 degrees. b. To increase positive cross camber, slide the subframe to the right (passenger side). For every 1 mm (1/32") of lateral movement, cross camber will increase approximately 0.15 degrees. 10. Torque subframe mounting nuts to 133 N.m (98 lb-ft). 11. Reset front toe to specifications. Refer to WSM, Section 204-00. WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

Yes, if you mark all the positions prior to removal, like any other timing job. Once you have the cams locked down at top dead center, should be set. Let me look up the service manual for any specific gotchas. UPDATE: Two places you will need tools: Install the special tool Camshaft Alignment Tool 303-1248 onto the flats of the LH camshafts, same for RH. So you will need two of these. Compress the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and install a suitable lockpin to retain the tensioner in the collapsed position. Repeat for RH side.

Like you said, no need to fiddle with what works fine!

Congrats, and many more happy miles to ya!

Good luck, Brian! Check the timing chain/tensioner carefully while you are in there, might be worth replacing if you see slack.

Hey it's a free country, let me put my sunglasses on Don't like the 2011 so much you are fighting over it with the wife!

Yeah, since the pump is driven by the timing chain, it makes it a difficult process to R/R.